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Trojan
 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums>>Trojan
Subject Topic: Dashboard project update and a few ??? Post ReplyPost New Topic
 
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Coralkong
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: January 11 2007 at 09:27 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Hello there again, everyone.

Well, I finally purchased all my gauges, and have started this beast of a project.

I am building the new dash face at home to be hooked up next spring when the boat is in the slip (there's a reason I am NOT hooking it up while on the hard. I have a real nasty situation with 2 existing tachs that don't work, and were unhooked. I had a digital synch-meter which I have unhooked. If I hook up the feed wires to the existing tachs. It will turn over but won't start. Unhooked and the engine fired right up. I figure I better get it into the slip next spring before I start messing with it, or risk not being able to start it in the spring and trying to trouble-shoot in the launch slip.). This will also allow me to take before and after pictures.

I will give you the update on my progress, and I do have a couple of questions.

First, let me state where I am at. I have wanted to use a NICE piece of wood for the face, something REALLY crazy looking with lots of grain, etc... but NOT teak. I have enough teak and wanted to get the look of an expensive car dashboard (like Lexus and BMW use, for instance, but in real wood, not a veneer or plastic.)

My problem was the gauges are designed to be mounted 1/2" deep max. Well, seeing as I don't have a planer, I was weighing my options. Starboard? Plastic? What to do?

I found a local cabinet maker in an industrial park near my house and went in and talked to the guy. He was all for the project, and sounded as excited as me to hook me up and help me out.

Well, he said he had "just the piece of wood for me", and went into the back of the shop to do some digging.

He cut to spec (Man, I hope my measurements are on...), planed and squared a piece of quarter-sawn AFRICAN ZEBRAWOOD for my new dash! Oh, man, this thing is outrageous looking! I will post a picture, but it isn't finished yet. He suggested a yellow stain to bring out the light parts of the wood, then finish with a couple of coats of marine varnish.

I have cut the 2 1/8" holes with a hole saw for the temp, fuel, oil and volt gauges, and will be cutting the holes for the 2 tachs today sometime (well, soon, anyway).

The wood is so hard I destroyed my hole-saw bit, and my drill (burned it up!), but I managed to get the holes in.

It is going to look AWESOME.

Here's my question(s), and I'm sure I will come up with more.

I have 2 indicator lights (big, old LED lights from 1974, about the size of a dime) mounted for V-Drive oil status. Anyone see any problems changing them to modern 12v (I assume they're 12v...) small LED's? I will probably change the color from red to something else as well. (Gonna need your soldering iron skills, Rick...LOL.)

I am so excited. Wait until you see this thing. It looks great. I have mounted the 2 1/8" gauges to see how it looked. WOW! The carpenter guy also stated he could make me a swim platform, but would need dimensions to give me an estimate. He wants a picture of the dash when I am done for his shop.

I think I've outdone myself this time, which usually only means trouble, lol.

I have several other questions, but can't think of them right now.

I am going to mount terminal strips under the dash for each engine + (off of ignition switch), a separate strip for gauge light +'s and 2 for each engine -. Keep the wiring nice and neat, easy to add on to (if necessary) and get rid of the wiring cancer under the dash.

 

 

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Rick1954
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: January 11 2007 at 10:39 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

The Input to the tack is usually the negative side of the coil and points of the distributer, if the tack is shorted out when you hook up to the points it will hold them to ground constantly and the coil will have power on at all times. Thus no removal of power, no collapse of the magnetic field , no fly-back, no spark, no engin running.

AFRICAN ZEBRAWOOD is a nice looking wood cant wait to see the pic.

The old LEDs should be 12v because the power in the boat is 12v, so you should be able to put any 12v led in to replace them. Kings-Brite is a company I get most of my LEDs from they make a wide variety of shape and style. (Oh sure now you need me for something) LoL.



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agis@shaw.ca
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: November 03 2006
Posts: 1
Posted: January 11 2007 at 16:40 | IP Logged Quote agis@shaw.ca

I have to do the same job in a couple of months time, if you can be very spefic in how you do the wiring connections between gauges would be appreciated.
Austin in Nanaimo, BC

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Coralkong
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: January 11 2007 at 18:56 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Sure, I was working on that very thing a few hours ago. I will post some pictures. I am in the final mockup and wire installation as we speak.

Then, I will disassemble, finish the wood, then reinstall and prepare for final installation into the dash.

Let me find my daughter's camera (My wife is out of town and took ours...).

 

Let me see now....

 

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Coralkong
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: January 11 2007 at 19:34 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

OK, let's try this....

Now, bear in mind, I'm in final mock-up. The wires are all run, but some grounds aren't connected to the actual gauges. I have to pull all the gauges out, and finish the piece of wood, put all the gauges back in, rewire and tie-off, THEN install by hooking up all senders, the + and - of each battery, and the + wire off of the dash lighting switch. (Not to mention place an inline fuse before each +).

Here we go now!

http://www.qcinnovations.com/front.JPG

http://www.qcinnovations.com/back.JPG

http://www.qcinnovations.com/front2.JPG

http://www.qcinnovations.com/back1.JPG

http://www.qcinnovations.com/back2cu.JPG

http://www.qcinnovations.com/back3cu.JPG

 

the 2 terminal strips on each side of the tachs are + and -, respectively (connected to ignition switch, - runs to battery -)

The large terminal strip in the middle is the dash backlighting terminal, to be connected to dash lighting switch.

 

Let's see if that works....



Edited by Coralkong on January 11 2007 at 19:51
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Coralkong
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: January 11 2007 at 22:59 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

If you have any questions that I may be able to answer (although RWS has done this before, I am in uncharted territory), feel free to ask.

 

Gee, I thought it looked pretty good! (Rick, I know how you feel, now! *Fishing for feedback*)

I am pretty darned pleased, if I say so myself. A little di-electric grease and some liquid electrical tape (gonna do clear this time, I think) to seal off the connectors, fusible link the main terminal busses, a little stain, varnish, patience, some new LED's, and man,....look out!

 

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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: January 12 2007 at 07:54 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Mike, that looks great,

I am glad that I only have one engin in my boat, it kind of makes things simple.

Fishing for feedback, and you have taught me much needed patience As you said, not many Trojan owners out there and that is a shame .

Hey I thought you needed my soldering skills, sure kick me to the curb



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Coralkong
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: January 16 2007 at 15:14 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Boy, varnish takes a long time to dry and build up coats.

I'm going with a custom stain color (red oak mixed with golden oak for first coat. Second coat of stain is golden oak.)

I'm on my 5th coat of varnish (waiting for it to dry).

 

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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: January 17 2007 at 07:57 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Tell me about it, The more coats you put down the longer the next coat takes to dry. I have gone thru a gallon of that liquid gold so far, and will need another for the deck I am sure.



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