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Trojan
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Subject Topic: Ricks Rehab III Post ReplyPost New Topic
 
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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
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Posted: January 02 2007 at 08:18 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Because of the weather, I was able to re-finish the teak that I couldnít remove from the boat, she is going to be a looker for her age. I have been taking many pictures of before and after to put in an album. If ever there is a get together, and I learn to navigate and plot I can show her off.

I am going to send for the cut out for the floor this week, I think Mike was right, the mix of the natural and varnished teak can look good if done properly.

The cushions are all finished now but donít need to pick them up till April. Need to get in the boat and re-do the material on the back rests to match the cushions yet.

The head door was warped just a little, about 1/4 inch on top, to 1/4 inch on the bottom kind of shaped like a cup. I clamped the door past center for over two month now and it is flat again (ya).

A friend of mine has a auto body shop, he said that he could wet sand the outside of the hull and by using compound, buff the gel coat back to a new. The gel coat is in good shape, however, some minor rash has been repaired that should be removed and done properly using mold release etc.

Has any one done this polishing of the hull ??

The swim platform is some what of a job, probably should have got a new one. I donít have a plainer so I needed to make something to sand the inside edges from silver gray to teak color. So I made a feed unit using rubber rollers and a gear drive to move the wood across the belt sander , so far so good, this I am only going to do for the inside edges. Once the deck is glued and assembled, I will refinish the top and bottom as a whole.



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Coralkong
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Posted: January 02 2007 at 08:54 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

 

I've never wet-sanded my hull (except in a few small spots where I fixed some screw-holes), but I have seen it done. Be thankful you have someone who can do it for you! It's a chore. Your friend is right, though, when re-waxed and buffed, it will look dynamite.

You can always use a chemical teak cleaner to get the inside edges of the swim platform. It's rather nasty stuff on your hands (it will stain your fingernails yellow), but it works.

Trust me, swim platforms are really expensive. My boat doesn't have one, it's almost impossible to find a used one, and a new one is OUTRAGEOUSLY expensive. For my boat I recieved quotes of $2300 for a teak one, and almost $3K for a fiberglass one (that's UNINSTALLED!)

So, we'll be using the ladder again this year...

 

 

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Rick1954
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Posted: January 02 2007 at 09:56 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Mike, I know what you mean about the price that is why I am repairing this one. It had a lot of the wood rotted in it but not enough to s-can it. I can purchase a 8' x 10" x1' plank of teak for $15.00 a LF at Curtis lumber up where I am. I would have made a new one but I put all that work into taking it apart before I found the teak.

For you, all you need is two of them to the beam of your boat and you can make the platform to fit yours. Well you would have to rip the wood and purchase 1 million screws LOL and at least two no three cases of beer, but you could probably have an awesome deck for under $500.00 I would think.



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Rick1954
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Posted: January 04 2007 at 08:05 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

O-Key Mike, after all the yelling you gave me over having a hole in the boat below the water line (lol) I noticed that my Thru-hull intake strainer does not have a shut off valve installed on it. If that hose were to rupture, no pump would be able to pump that out. Do you know if a valve could be fitted to that strainer or do they make a strainer with one attached.



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Coralkong
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Posted: January 05 2007 at 11:48 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

LOL,

To the best of my knowledge (and without seeing it...), I BELIEVE that the through-hull strainers are threaded for shut-off valves.

I THINK all you have to do is add on onto the existing intake strainer, but you're going to have to check for sure. Try to get the same type of metal (probably bronze) as the strainer is to lessen corrosion possiblities.

You can shop online for the shut-off and save yourself some big $$$ over the retail outlets (who want about $100 for one...).

 

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Rick1954
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Posted: January 05 2007 at 13:25 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Oh ya it would have to be threaded to clamp it to the hull wouldnít it. This weekend it is going to be around 63 deg so I will remove the hose to see what size and thread it could be, I am concerned about being able to attach a new hose to the unit when  I install a valve, This strainer is about directly under the pump. I believe I could plumb in a loop, oh boy!!! this is not going to be easy. One good thing I will bring a beer or several with me to have on the boat, I will say it was my pre-spring evaluation (lol)

I was wrong about that teak price Mike, I went yesterday to get the board I needed, I got a 10' x9 Ĺ" x 1" board for $99.00. Two of them would make your deck less hardware and labor but not enough to drive the price up that much. Everything to do with a boat is price x 10 that really bothers me.

Till the next question Thank you.



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Coralkong
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Posted: January 05 2007 at 16:47 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Careful with the loop. The next time you put the boat back in, you may have to prime the hose in order for it to start sucking water. Failure to do so may result in a burned up water pump impeller. And nobody wants that!

 

 

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RWS
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Posted: January 06 2007 at 08:36 | IP Logged Quote RWS

The shut off valve or "seacock" should be a bronze ball valve and should be installed at the thru hull with no strainer or hose between it and the thru hull fitting.

One of the purposes of this valve is to shut off the seawater quickly in the event of a component failure.

A competent vessel survey would show up this kind of equipment fault.

RWS 



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Coralkong
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Posted: January 08 2007 at 16:57 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Indeed, RWS, a competent survey would reveal that.

When I bought this boat, my surveyor was an absolute ass-clown.

I found that out when I went accross the Chesapeake bay to my marina (about 35 miles or so, if memory serves, and found my bilge full of water.

The big old Rule automatic pump wasn't pumping on "auto", only on "Manual".

It had been sitting like this all winter, in the slip where I bought it. It stunk when I pumped it out and to this day has a grimey water-line around the inside framing in the hull.

The surveyor didn't even check it, and I didn't know any better. He had my money, and I was pissed off!

What recourse did I have? NONE, except to fix it.

 

That being said, Rick,

I'm interested in more of your ideas for my swim platform. I don't need anything fancy, but it would have to be pleasing to the eye for me to consider adding it to my boat, as well as structurally sound (as far as thickness).

My problem (as I'm finding out more and more) is that I have none of the tools (or experience) needed to "finish" woodwork.

Oh, I can build a wall, I can swing a Estwing framing hammer(well, I used to be able to swing a 24oz waffle-head, not so sure now.....). But I don't have a planer, or a joiner, or a biscuit-cutter, or the knowledge, nor the know-how to do some of the things I need to do. I redid my aft deck last year, and it about killed me. I would have done some things differently if I were to do it again. But it ain't going anywhere, I can guarantee you that!

I am working on my dash (finally ordered all the gauges), and believe it or not, I don't know anyone able to finish a board down to an ACTUAL 1/2" (planer, I guess) from a stock peice of 1X12X2 piece of (I haven't decided which) either poplar or red oak.

I'm just a lowly I.T. guy, it seems...with all the wrong tools, LOL...

Can't wait to rewire the dash, though! It's gonna be B_A_D! when I'm done!

 

 

 



Edited by Coralkong on January 08 2007 at 17:03
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Rick1954
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Posted: January 09 2007 at 08:21 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

I didnít have a survey done on this boat, there was no time, the person that I purchased the boat from was on his death bed, he died the day after I paid him (GRHS) besides, what do I want for $3000 anyway no matter what I find wrong I have no room to complain. I am re-doing everything on her anyway that is why I call this Ricks rehab

Although I went over her with a fine tooth comb, some of the things that would have popped up during the survey would have been niceto know then. The valve on the water pick-up is going to be a task. The manufacturer made no provisions to install one, the pick-up is to close to the engin, back in the 70's I think they deemed it not necessary . Not sure what I can do about this one

The swim platform is easy to make, and It will look like a million dollars. Donít need a planer, joiner, or biscuit cutter, just a chop-saw, drill, glue, screws, and a belt sander. If you have a table saw to rip the wood to 1"1/4 wide strips that would be good or have someone do it for you would be better. The ends of the platform are cut at 15 deg , in between each long board you place 4 blocks that are screwed and glued to the long board if front of it. Now you glue and screw a long board to the blocks, Kind of like Lincoln logs.

Mike you built a deck you can build this with a lot of ease .

Like I said, it pees me till I am red in the face, that anything to do with a boat is cost times 10 ++" ONLY BECAUSE IT IS A LIMITED MARKET NOTHING MORE".

When I am done with my platform I will post a picture



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Rick1954
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Posted: January 10 2007 at 13:29 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Well every-one, I am having the Marine Survey done on my little boat when I have her finished. Talked to the surveyor a long time today he went over several of the ABYC recommendation and helped me out with the intake valve problem She should pass a survey with flying colors as per our conversation (oops- I think I should remove that generator) LOL just kidding

See this is the beauty of being involved with this forum you learn thing that could save your life if not others.

Thankís Guys more of you should be involved

Mike I started the assembly of the platform, it is a little tricky, and sticky. You defiantly need to have on rubber gloves because of the expanding glue (yuk)



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Coralkong
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Posted: January 11 2007 at 09:07 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Let us know how it turns out.

I'm very interested in seeing your finished platform.

Wait until you see my dashboard project....no pix yet, but I will start a new post on it as I have some questions that RWS may be able to answer, seeing as he has already done his.

 

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Rick1954
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Posted: January 11 2007 at 10:53 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Almost done, need to do a little more trimming and a lot of sanding to blend in the old teak with the new teak. I am glad I did it, it is only costing me $110.00 including to glue. Besides, it is keeping me out of trouble with you guys with all the outrages ideas I have LoL



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Rick1954
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Posted: January 15 2007 at 08:24 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Hey Mike, so you are a computer geek, why I never. 

The platform is almost done, I have one layer to attach. The mix of old and new teak will look good when sanded and finished, but it was a lot of work. I should have just made the deck out of all new wood, the few pennies for the cost of the wood, would have been well spent for the time.

After about 4 layers of wood, the platform wanted to dog-ear aft on the starboard side. I had to run a straight edge and sand down the small intermediate blocks of wood to stop this. If I used fresh new wood this would not have happened. It looks good and no one will pick it out by looking at the platform but " I will know".

Once I add the last layer I will take a pic, Then when I refinish it, I will take another pic. I will have to post them on this site, donít know how to post stuff to my web site like you Mike.



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Rick1954
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Posted: January 16 2007 at 09:46 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Well as for the deck, I have decided to go with the real Teak decking. I found a place that will ship me 100sf of the same original decking (Brazilian Teak) never been used, shipped for $650.00. This is a huge savings, and my deck will be original. In my manual for the boat, It has a section for the care and the re-caulking of the deck. It will be a little work but worth the labor.

The swim platform is completed all but the re-finishing, this I will do when it becomes warmer.

The patterns and SS hardware for the Classic fold-down seats are at the upholsterers, I am doing them 18" wide instead of the 21" for two reasons. One my butt isnít that wide , secondly at 21" it would be into the door-way if you were to draw a straight line, I want symmetry nothing less.

My friend whom has the body shop will be starting the re-finishing of the hull as the days warm, I guess that it would be better to do this work when it is cooler.

I will be removing the two side plexi-glass windows along with the port bow window to replace them with safety glass that you can clean and see thru. The starboard bow window was already changed before I got the boat. Another business associate of mine has an auto glass business that will cut the glass for me, I will have to install it.

That just about covers it for now, I will sit back and read the posts now like everyone else and let someone else talk for a change. I have grown tired of talking to myself for now.



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Rick1954
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Posted: January 16 2007 at 14:16 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Alright so I lied, you just cant shut me up.

Ok, I found this nice camper refrigerator, It is (LP), 110v, and 12vdc. That will fit nicely where my old ice box is now.

Now before anyone yells at me, I know and would not think of using the LP, However, what about the 110vac and the 12vdc could I use this. Please donít leave me hanging on this one, If anyone has done this please let me know.



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Coralkong
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Posted: January 16 2007 at 15:10 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Where does the LP come into it? Does it have burners on top or something?

 

As for just a fridge, I don't see why not.

Someone once pointed out to me that NON-marine fridges aren't designed to work at a list greater than 30%.

I laughed long and hard at that one...think about it. If my boat is listing more than 30%, I have some SERIOUS problems that don't inclue the fridge.

I'd like to get an apartment sized fridge and squeeze it in somewhere into the cabin. How to get it into the boat could be the biggest factor, as my clearance through doors and windows is VERY limited. A project for spring, too much going on right now.



Edited by Coralkong on January 16 2007 at 15:16
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Rick1954
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Posted: January 17 2007 at 07:46 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

The LP comes in as a pilot light, this heats up the liquid into a gas, so does the 110v and 12 vdc using a heat tape. I have one in my camper and it works well, for the most I use it on LP but wouldnít be using that on the boat. I useís very little power, and puts out very little heat, less than a regular unit

I think no fridge marine or like will work listing more than 30% at least not well.

Ya like trying to save the beer.

S!@t, you bring up a very good point, I donít think I can get it thru the door opening. However, I can remove the unit from the fridge that would fit thru the door opening and than install it into the icebox all I need to do is cut an opening in the back. Oh Magoo you done it again



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Rick1954
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Posted: January 18 2007 at 14:03 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Mike, I had a pic of the sanded platform .Cant upload it to this post I am doing everything I did before, however, nothing, sorry.



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Coralkong
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Posted: January 18 2007 at 15:21 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

you can send it to me at mcollins@qcinnovations.com

 

I will post it for you, if you wish...

 

 

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Coralkong
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Posted: January 19 2007 at 09:17 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Here's Rick's swim platform.

http://www.qcinnovations.com/rick.jpg

Looks great. I can't tell what was old vs what is new.

 

Rick, I'm not sure why it isn't letting me post it as a link...you will have to cut and paste the URL into your browser.

?????



Edited by Coralkong on January 19 2007 at 09:20
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Rick1954
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Posted: January 19 2007 at 11:08 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Thankís Mike, Just put the first coat of varnish on, it looks dark now. I am little miffed at this filler I used, I was told it would stain up to match the wood. On some of the old wood ,the edges were not square to the surface of the next piece of wood, so I used this filler to close in the edge.

Well it wasnít stainable, now I see this thin yellow line on a few spots, once dried I am going to dig it out and leave the small gap at the few edges it will be less conspicuous. When I am done with the finish I will send you another pic.

I think you could make this from new wood easily for around $300 total finished and attached.



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Posted: January 22 2007 at 10:27 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Okey, when I got to work today, I dug out the white/yellow s#$t that I used as a filler. I went to the shop vac and removed the dust from sanding the platform (hummmmm teak dust) mixed that with the varnish and made a very thick paste and used that to do my minor filling that in my mind I had to do.

Wow, now I have something to put my name on . Mike I will send up a pic to you when I do the last coat of finish



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Posted: January 26 2007 at 10:40 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

I pick up the teak floor for the aft deck this Monday, cant wait to install it. I have a question to anyone, Should I varnish the floor, should I teak oil the floor, or do nothing to it? I am sure someone can help on this one.



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Coralkong
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Posted: January 27 2007 at 10:40 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

I wouldn't varnish it. Too slippery.

I've done my cockpit floor with oil, looks nice, but needs constant attention, and tends to hold dirt.

This year, I'm going to strip and do with Cetol.

 

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Posted: January 27 2007 at 20:27 | IP Logged Quote Mark I

I've used Tequa on the platform and pulpit the last 2 years.  It is a little brownish but looks good all season without much fuss.

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Rick1954
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Posted: January 29 2007 at 08:56 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Ya I thought that the varnish would make her slippery, could be fun though. What is this Cetol that you are going to use? Also, how did you get that picture of your boat up, I couldnít post my platform??????

Thanks

BTW, nice looking boat I just love the lines of the Trojan.



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Posted: January 29 2007 at 14:01 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Cetol is a marine product, it is a multi-layer (you're supposed to do three coats, initially), that is specially formulated for teak's oils.

It's what I used on all my railings and rub-rail wood and cockpit steps. It is time consuming to apply, but you only have do additional coats once per year (after the three initial ones.)

I just got tired of having oily rags laying all around (nevermind the several bottles of teak oil). Pain in the butt.

http://www.qcinnovations.com/Split.JPG

Not a great picture, but you'll get the idea.

 

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Rick1954
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Posted: January 30 2007 at 08:52 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

At a stand still with the deck, every day the store tells me "tomorrow the wood will be in". I was told when I ordered it, it would take two days for the wood to come in. We are going on two weeks now, I know, she didnít say what two days. Ya ya ya !!!

I have all the fixtures made to pre-drill all the wood before laying it down, I will cut the deck plates in after installation, I also will be sending the old plates to the platters to have a heavy brass plate put on them, along with the trim around the hatch for the motor and rudder. Boy oh boy she is going to look good.

Not sure as to what I am going to do with the finish yet, I have time on this one.



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Posted: February 01 2007 at 09:20 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Picked up the teak yesterday, cant wait to install it. The grain structure on this teak is tight compared to the old growth teak that was used on the Trojanís of that year. When I picked it up, it wasnít boxed up so being un-finished wood I have many slivers that I am still digging out (ouch) I need to make up a fixture to micro bevel the edges, not sure I can do all sides with one setting on the rotter table.

The first thing is to square up the deck area to find center, then do all the measurements and cuts to get that first row of boards in at the gunnels , so as you build out the boards will be square with the center line (Fun donít you think) all on my hands and knees on hard wood. I better have a lot of cold beer handy.

Havenít given the hatches to much thought at this time. I need to dis-assemble them to see what is under the vinyl crap that is atop them now. What I see from under looks like Masonite, cant imagine that is what the hatches were made from, unless they were toped with a veneer of teak or something ,I can tell you this they are sure heavy enough to be masonite



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Posted: February 28 2007 at 09:10 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Ok you old fuddy duddyís I will go it alone on the information I asked for in my Cabin fever post on the teak deck. Boy talk about pulling teeth around Trojan Vil.

All the wood flooring is prepped and ready for installation . The edges are all micro beveled, pre drilled for the nail, I am going to use the SS barbed nail to attach the boards to the deck just like the way you would do a floor in your home. These nails will never rot and will hold the deck better than screws that I would have to counter-sink and plug.

I have not taken apart the hatch covers as of yet, at this point I donít care how they were assembled, I have it worked out .

Off the old swim platform there was an old plastic ladder that went up the back of the boat to an opening in the rail. That ugly chunk of junk will not be coming back. I had an old ladder from an old Mark Twain I restored used and than dismantled for parts. This attached to the upper rail and is held off the transom about 6" with two teak steps. That is going to look sharp and that mush more sophisticated.

Done the math on installing the camper fridge, it would be tight front to back. I am going to remove the Ice box fridge that is in the galley no and fit that with the cooling unit from the camper unit. This should work well and keep plenty of really cold beer on hand when at the dock. Well it could keep cold beer on the water too if I could install a generator But I am not going there.

I also was looking for the rail hinge, another day of no fish. I am going to machine a few of them, I will let you know Mike ,I figure one of the few is for you. I am sure that it also aggravates you that you have a flaw that you cant fix, it does me.

On the bow of the boat, center of the bow rail you have a part of the rail that extends up to mount a flag ( or your laundry ) what ever. I donít have it, I am going to make it out of teak. Would some one pleas tell me as to how tall should it be, My little boat is only 26ft. There is a formula for that I do believe.

Ok enough said at this time, Iíve got work to do, and beer to cool.



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Coralkong
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Joined: December 26 2003
Posts: 63
Posted: March 07 2007 at 14:38 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

It sure does. I remember when mine fell overboard, complete with the teak handrail part.

I figured it would float. It didn't.

Then I figured I could get another replacement piece, no problem.

I can't.

I should have jumped in after it. I didn't.

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Rick1954
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Joined: September 20 2006
Posts: 84
Posted: March 08 2007 at 07:38 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Well Mike I will be making them soon, need to go to the boat and take the other one off so I can do the dim-ing. I will assume that you have the 7/8 dia rail and not the 1". The rail system I have doesnít have the teak hand rail cover but I think I am going to install one, it looks really good.

You didnít ans my question as to the size of the bow rail that sticks up to mount the flag on, a little help please.



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Coralkong
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Posted: March 08 2007 at 08:10 | IP Logged Quote Coralkong

Hmmmm, yes I have 7/8" tubing for my bow rail. Not sure what you mean.

My front flag holder is simply a SS piece mounted where the two sides connect in the middle of the bow (I may even have taken it completely off and replaced it with a simple "V", I don't remember.)

They make pieces specifically for this. If memory serves me correctly, the "mount" was angled towards the helm, and the socket only stood about 1.5" high. It has a cotter pin that inserts through a SS flagpole (which only is about 18" or so in height.

My rear flag holder is a socket mounted into the fiberglass of the transom. It is angled out so it clears the transom railing. THAT flagpole is a good 2 1/2' long, and is teak.

 

I'm not sure what kind of hinge you have (or had) or need to make. Mine is for the teak handrail around the back of the boat, and was used to flip up the teak handrail out of the way to board or unboard the boat. It was very foolish of me not to dive in and retrieve it as we were sitting at the dock when it happened (The hinge split right down the middle and the whole rail peice fell in.) Stupid, very stupid.

My teak handrail looks like a carved down (routed round on the edges) 2X4"

 

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Rick1954
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Posted: March 08 2007 at 08:59 | IP Logged Quote Rick1954

Mike,

I donít have the teak hand rail around the back of the boat that you have, mine is a typical 7/8 dia SS tubing. Now the part along each side of the boat that opened up hinged up and back to the transom inbound. On the forward side of this rail it is spring loaded to drop the hinged rail into and lock it down by capturing it. On the aft side of the rail was the hinge, it attached to the part of the rail that lifted and the stationary rail by sliding inside of the rail and was pined , kind of like a plug.

Now I can see that yours would have to be different, your rail would be mounted using the same flange that attached to the boat only using tube as an upright. Take me a pic of what you have on the one side that is good and remove and take me a pic of what is left of the broken hinge, I can still make you what you need , I am sure. Hell, you could use SS piano hinge no?



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