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NautiKall
"Seaman"




Joined: January 22 2014
Posts: 72
Posted: February 04 2014 at 19:09 | IP Logged Quote NautiKall

Diver,
I'll try to answer your questions.  With all of the "noise" in the debate I know there is some confusion. There would be half as many posts on the subject if uninterested parties would bow out. I tried to clear up the confusion on the Feb 2 post as a summary.  I am not a muffler designer but am intelligent and have used my telephone and computer to communicate with knowledgeable technical people to find the best solution for me.  I don't care if any body else makes a change. I only shared the info because others asked me to.  If you like your muffler, you can keep it.

I suggest you google Centrek Industries and click on the many options for information.  There is a lot of good stuff about how mufflers work.  The exact details of the internals, however are not there because the designs are valuable and proprietary.

I don't know what boat you have.  It seems strange that your muffler inlet is high and the discharge is low.  Is it a lift style?  Do you have a 501?  Water flow is for cooling.  From what I have learned it has little effect on attenuation.

The Vernatone MK II Dual Stage muffler is Centek's best in our 8" size, and is  rated at 25-30 db noise reduction by Centek.  It is 16" in dia. and 50" long.  I think Dual Stage means two major compartments in the one container with baffles, holes and passage ways for the exhaust gas pathway.  Also, on the dual stage muffler the inlet is centered and the discharge is offset high.

The Vernatone Oval muffler is not a MK II.  It is not Dual Stage and is Centek's second best in our 8" size.  It is rated at 18-22 db noise reduction by Centek.  It's purpose is to fit into a space where the 16" dia. muffler won't fit.  It is 19" wide x 12" high and is only 42"long.

It makes sense that you would have low noise at idle and increased noise as you throttle up. I don't know about engine noise.  It could be engine condition or motor mounts.  Haven't investigated that.  My boat is quiet inside at all speeds. All noise is exhaust pipe related.

I realize every one is not technically oriented and I try to make simple understandable explanations.  Forgive me if I have failed.

Yesterday I ordered new mufflers which should arrive this week.  The shop at our marina is set to proceed when here.  Won't know the results until I dewinterize in April and fire her up.

Get ready for the response from the opposing party.  We are free to talk about our projects on this forum.

Bob K.






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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: February 04 2014 at 20:09 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

I should first say to Bob that I am an interested party. I wouldn't be writing all these posts if I wasn't interested

Bob's post above is fairly enlightening except that he doesn't take the frequency distribution of the engine noise into account. When you do that the noise attenuation is only about 17 dB to 20 dB not 25 to 30 dB. The mufflers don't work as well for low frequency sounds.

The bottom line though is whether the new muffler is quieter than the old one. What he should do is test his old mufflers now with a sound meter before he removes them.

Then after installling the new mufflers he should test them under the same conditions. Subtracting one set of readings from the other would tell whether or not an improvement has been made and how much.

But since he's going to install the new mufflers now but isn't going to dewinterize until April he won't do that and therefore we won't know whether the new mufflers are better or not. But I'm sure he will claim they are.

And we'll be back in the "Wonder whether they're better or not mode?" But we could test his boat against one with the old mufflers. Let's see if Bob is willing to do that? I wonder if he will even do any testing that's worthy of reporting on?

Pete37

PS: My apologys. I suggested to Bob that we move these muffler posts to a separate forum as recommended by Brian Azar so that they won't interfere with the general business of this forum. But Bob won't do that so I have to post here too.

Edited by Pete37 on February 04 2014 at 23:34


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NautiKall
"Seaman"




Joined: January 22 2014
Posts: 72
Posted: February 05 2014 at 12:20 | IP Logged Quote NautiKall

Diver,

I have had another thought about engine noise since I attempted to answer some of your questions yesterday.  I don't think you are on the the other Connie forum so I'll take a chance by posting here again.

When we brought our purchase to St. Louis in 2007 my "old boater retired Detroit Diesel mechanic friend" and I went through the engine with a fine tooth comb.  That was when we "de-tuned " the engine, as Emory calls it, and installed the new N-90 injectors. 

There are generic sounds attributed to diesel engines that come with the beast.  But, the "clickity clack" sound can be attenuated with proper adjustment of the rack on top of the head.  The rack operates the exhaust valves and the firing of the injectors.  Most Detroit rack adjustments are out of tolerance.  If clearances are adjusted too tightly you can damage the engine, but if adjusted properly the engine will operate quieter.  The tolerance changes as the engine warms-up.  Often mechanics will adjust the rack loose to avoid a come back issue and of course wear will affect the setting.

My friend went through my racks with two small wrenches, like a watchmaker, and set everything just right.   The result was that the engines now have a low sound of power.  If you can trust your local mechanic ask him about "proper rack adjustment".

With an in-line 671 there is only one head cover and one rack.  With the V692's there are two head covers and two racks per engine.  Potential noise source.

Muffler Bob


Edited by NautiKall on February 05 2014 at 14:02


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"NautiKall"
1985 Connie 460
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eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: February 05 2014 at 12:30 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Bob - you are certainly correct by saying that a correctly
tuned DD is a quieter DD. I run the N90's as well. A
couple of seasons ago, I "cooked" my port engine and had
to have it rebuilt. It would probably be considered a repair
as much as a rebuild since the crankshaft was not changed
and the turbo was not replaced. However, the heads,
injectors and all cylinder kits were, so I still consider it an
in-frame. At that time, the mechanic also adjusted the
starboard engine. Makes a big difference having the racks
set properly.

My only (and ever presistent) issue is that damned
soot/smoke on plane. I have discovered a turbo leak on
the starboard engine which is, of course, fouling my
AirSeps. So, I will investigate and either have the turbo
replaced (if necessary) or stem the leak (hopefully).
However, it was the turbo that was on the boat when I
bought her 12 years ago and may well be in need of
replacement. Since I run mostly at trawl speed due to high
fuel costs, the soot issue isn't one any more! But any
exhaust leak needs to be addressed. I hate having to pull
the turbo, but not a choice.

Have a wonderful day.

Emory

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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: February 05 2014 at 13:53 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

Subject: Turbo Rebuilds

Twelve years is way past the lifetime of a turbo. Have it rebuilt. It only costs about $1,500. You may be able to shop around and get a little better price.

Six to 8 years is the reasonable lifetime of a turbo. It will run way past that but it wont be running right. Horsepower will drop, fuel consumption will rise and soot will build up on the transom. A turbo rebuild will take about a week (from the time you call the mechanic to the time it's back on the boat).

Your favorite mechanic should have the address of a good rebuild place. Rebuilds are very common but few local mechanics do them. They send them out to a rebuild factory that has the special equipment needed for the job.

The local mechanic will remove the old turbo, send it out and then reinstall it when it comes back. The only inconvenience for the owner is paying the bill. But that's what we are for, isn't it?

Pete37

Edited by Pete37 on February 05 2014 at 13:56


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Pete37
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Joined: November 12 2006
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Posted: February 06 2014 at 12:09 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Shale Oil Production Problems

In October 2013 the US Department of Energy forecast that US shale oil output is surging so fast that the US will soon overtake Saudi Arabia as the world’s largest oil producer. The Department forecasts US oil production in 2014 will be 11.4 million barrels per day while Saudi Arabia will produce 11.6 million barrels per day.

The International Energy Agency (IEA) predicts global oil prices which averaged $107 per barrel this year will drop to an average of $89 per barrel in the next five years. In terms of marine diesel oil presently selling for about $4.00 per gallon this amounts to a price drop to about $3.30 per gallon (a 17% drop). This is not a huge reduction but it is much better than the dollar a year fuel price kick-in-the-ass we’ve been getting every year during the last decade.

But there is a problem. Shale oil is light crude and the US does not have sufficient refinery capacity to process all the light crude. Nearly all of the fuel consumed in the US is used by vehicles which require refined fuel. So we can’t consume all the shale oil crude. And there are no practical methods to store it.

Therefore we have to export it to countries which can refine it. Once refined it can be sold back to the US or burned elsewhere. Either way the proceeds (oil or cash) go to the US to pay for imported oil. It seems like a silly way to do things but until we have sufficient refining capacity we have no choice.

Unfortunately there is a ban on exporting oil. But the ban is not a total prohibition; there are many loopholes which allow oil to be exported. Refined oil for example is not banned. So we can as export as much refined oil as we want.

But we don’t want export refined fuel; we want to export crude oil in exchange for refined oil. Somehow we have to revise the ban to allow our unusable shale oil crude to be exchanged for refined oil.

Building more refineries is obviously a better solution. But no one wants a refinery in their back yard. And the EPA has hundreds of regulations against refineries. It is easier to get legal authorization to build an atomic power plant than to build a refinery. So building refineries will be a very slow process.

Pete37


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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: February 08 2014 at 09:32 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Boycott

Well it’s been about 7 years (2,555 days) since I started this forum and it looks like it has been boycotted so this is may be the end of the line. There were 5,966 posts about half of which (2309) were mine which made me the Manufacturer's Forums top poster with more than twice the posts of the runner up. They were read by 526,265 people (or one person 526,265 times). Not too bad a record.

And in the process I’ve created a 5 gigabyte library on Connies. In that time I’ve probably pissed off a dozen posters; you can’t please them all.

Pete37


Edited by Pete37 on February 08 2014 at 09:50


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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posted: February 13 2014 at 10:26 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: The Boycott

Well, it’s February 13th and I’m in Florida on vacation. Before I left I noticed some of Bob’s boys had orchestrated a boycott of the forum. Since it’s still on today I guess they’re serious about it this time.

For the past six months this like all the other forums on the Manufacturer’s Forums had been teetering on the brink of extinction so this not unexpected. However, I did not expect it to be due to a boycott.

Because of the sad state of the Forum I have been searching for a new site for the forum for a long time. I searched everywhere but didn’t find one I liked so I came back to this forum in early December to give it one last try before giving up on it. Things seemed to be perking up until Bob Kallemeier joined the forum and then everything abruptly went south. It took him only about 10 days to destroy it.

But fortunately I am well prepared to set up a new forum. There are about 200 Connies out there and I have the names and addresses of nearly all of them. I’ve got about half of them set up on my label maker and will send letters out to them announcing the formation of a new Connie forum as soon as the labels are complete. This was the way this forum was started way back in 2006.

Naturally, the new forum can’t be on the BOAT US site because Bob and his cohort would break in and screw things up again. But it will not be secret either. It will be a free and open forum accessible to anyone who does not make trouble or attempt to profit at the forum member’s expense.

There are several software packages out there starting at about $150 suitable for setting up a forum. I have selected one which I think will work but it will take some time to fully understand the software and get it up and running. And I won’t be able to start until I get back from vacation. I expect it will take about two months to get it running properly.

Until then I will continue to monitor this forum, make occasional posts and answer any questions you may have.

Pete37




Edited by Pete37 on February 23 2014 at 21:35


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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posted: February 13 2014 at 14:06 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Galley Overhauls

My Connie is 27 years old now, going on 28, and all the galley appliances are original. They all seem to work pretty well (with a few glitches) but my wife (Arlene) has been hinting she wants a new set of galley appliances.

I’ve been a bit negative on the idea because of the cost. But today I received a brochure on galley appliances and decided to add up the cost of all galley appliances.

In my Connie they are the refrigerator/freezer, the dishwasher, the microwave and the stove. Everything except the refrigerator/freezer is shown in the picture below:



Everything should fit in easily except the microwave. It may be hard to find an exact fit for that.

Most people try to find an exact fit for the fridge but I'm going to shoot for about 1" thinner. This will make it a lot easier to get the fridge into the boat. A piece of 1" fill trim will then be used to fill in the gap.

In the brochure I found a suitable 18 cu. ft. refrigerator/freezer with icemaker for $500, a microwave for $350, a built-in dishwasher for $500 and a stove for $500. All have stainless steel panels. Total cost $1850; much less than I thought. There is a huge mall nearby and Arlene and I will probably check them out tomorrow. Prices will not be exact but should be similar. Arlene will have a whole brand spanking new shiny galley for under $2000. That should be a good Valentine’s Day gift.

I’ve been wanting to install an inverter power system for some time now and have priced it out at about $1,200 (3000 watt/600 AH). Added to the galley stuff the total cost would be $3,000.

Pete37


Edited by Pete37 on February 13 2014 at 15:03


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Capt.Wayne
"Seaman"




Joined: October 31 2007
Posts: 60
Posted: February 13 2014 at 15:20 | IP Logged Quote Capt.Wayne

Hi Pete,

Sounds like the galley will be first class, and modern appliances too.

I just repaired the oven temperature control with a new thermostat, and gave it a good cleaning while it was apart. Also repaired the freezer with a new thermostat and defrost heaters. every thing works at a minimal cost. I think I'll continue to fix what I have until I can't get the parts. I did change out the microwave for a convection/microwave, replaced the garbage disposal, and sink faucet.

This forum is working well for my needs, I do a lot of work on the boat myself, and have used your, and others knowledge to tackle projects with confidence, with some tricks I wouldn't have known about without input from all the members on this form.

Don't give up the ship.

Capt. Wayne


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Non-Marrital Asset
460 Connie
Isle of Capri, FL
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NautiKall
"Seaman"




Joined: January 22 2014
Posts: 72
Posted: February 13 2014 at 18:34 | IP Logged Quote NautiKall

Muffler up-date on the NautiKall,

The new mufflers arrived last Friday the 8th.  Weather here has been zero at night rising to 20* during the day.  Needless to say, the fuel dock is closed and the NautiKall is confined to her slip.  It is a time for eagle watching.







The new muffler chamber is 16" in diameter and 50" long and is of a Dual Stage design.  The old mufflers being removed are 15" in diameter and 38" long and are straight thru design. 

Looking at the starboard side first, is a view fore and then aft of the old muffler being removed.

 
Forward


Aft

Below shows new muffler "dry fitted" on the starboard side.  When the rubber sleeves are installed the rear nozzle support will be glassed-in and the exhaust pipe extension to the transom installed.  The views of the new muffler in place are fore then aft.


Forward view


Looking aft toward the transom.

Access to the forward nozzle is under the shelf in the starboard hanging locker.

Work on the port side is similar except that the muffler is 8" more forward than the muffler on the starboard side.  The following pix are the fore and aft views of the muffler on the port side "dry-fitted" waiting for the rubber sleeves and glassing-in of the rear nozzle support.  Access to the forward nozzel on the port side is under the sink in the aft head.


Looking forward on port side.

Looking aft.

The new mufflers are the maximun size that will fit in the 460. Things are moving ahead very well.  The shop only works 3 days a week this month.  So, far the work is done mostly by one talented guy.  We hope to de-winterize the engines in a couple of weeks and test the results!  Stay tuned.

Bob K.




Edited by NautiKall on February 13 2014 at 22:07


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1985 Connie 460
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eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: February 13 2014 at 21:22 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Looks good. No problems with alignment I assume? Keep us
posted on your results.



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"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
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eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: February 13 2014 at 21:27 | IP Logged Quote eshover

FYI - in a previous post I stated that I was running N90
injectors. Don't know why I made that statement other than I
may have been on my 4th Old Fashioned.   My injectors are
130's which are down from the original 145's. My 92's were
de-tuned from 550 to somewhere around 500 for longevity.

Emory

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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: February 13 2014 at 21:47 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Something’s Wrong with the Yachting Market

I went to Yachtworld today to check on the status of the yachting market. Wow, What a change! Ten years ago there were about 34 Connies on the listings with about 30 500s and 4 501s. Today there were only 3 500s and 6 501s. The total has dropped by nearly 3.5:1 to one with 500s dropping by 17:1 and the 501s increasing by 1.5:1.

We can’t blame it on the cold weather because the 500s dropped while the 501s increased. Why should weather make the 501s so much more popular or to put it another way why should weather make the 500s become so much less popular?

Obviously the availability of 500s has dropped drastically while the 501’s availability has stayed about the same. Maybe that’s because all of the good 500s have found good homes and there aren’t any more available. It’s really even more pronounced because one of the 500s is priced at the totally unrealistic price of $315K. This makes the drop in available 500s 18:1.

Perhaps 500s are rare and desirable commodities that are now very difficult to obtain. Hope that’s true because I own one. Normally that would drive the price up but that doesn’t seem to have happened, yet.

This is very strange situation which bears watching.

Pete37


Edited by Pete37 on February 13 2014 at 21:57


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NautiKall
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Joined: January 22 2014
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Posted: February 13 2014 at 22:11 | IP Logged Quote NautiKall

I know of two people that are looking for 460's. They want the 671's.  Does anyone know of a 460 for sale?  

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"NautiKall"
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NautiKall
"Seaman"




Joined: January 22 2014
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Posted: February 13 2014 at 22:24 | IP Logged Quote NautiKall

The width dimension doesn't have anything to do with getting a refrigerator in the boat.  The critical dimension is the depth, measured with the doors off.

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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posted: February 14 2014 at 20:41 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Bob,

According to Emory, the width is critical to getting the fridge up the stairs from the lower to upper salon. I'm not at home now so I can't check the dimensions. But I've got plenty of time to check that out. Thanks for the tip.

Pete

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Pete37
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Posted: February 14 2014 at 20:45 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Yachting Market

I've got other theories on why there are so few 500s for sale but they aren't pretty so I'll leave the discussion until I have more data.

Pete37

Edited by Pete37 on February 14 2014 at 20:48


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Pats2nd Connie
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Posted: February 14 2014 at 20:54 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

You have to get a counter depth refrigerator and take the doors off to
get it down the stairway. You also have to a a great delivery crew. By
crew I mean they need to send out 3 men. You will have to cut the
front 6" of the existing fridge to get it out. A sawsall with an exhaust
fan by the galley window are needed.

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eshover
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Posted: February 14 2014 at 21:16 | IP Logged Quote eshover

I don't recall saying width, but If I said, my error. It is the
DEPTH of the refrigerator that is critical. Mine was the
factory unit many of us had/have with our boats. Pat, I do
not recall having to cut the unit down at all. It is critical to
remove all doors hinges and even screws on the back of
the frige. Remove all tubing that goes to the icemaker.
You must remove the stair rail coming down from the
upper salon. You must remove the small door at the end of
the bar or helm seat. Even then, tape every piece of wood
you can envision coming into contact. Now, in regards to
Pats comment. If you should decide to take a sawsall and
cut that sucker down, it will certainly make the job easier
getting that old beast out of there! A strong consideration.
When I measured for a new unit, I made damned sure I
found one that was ever so slightly smaller in depth, which
translated to slightly shorter. It isn't even noticeable. As I
said, my wife and I do not drink the water (even with a
new tank) so a unit with water and ice in the door would be
superfluous and would add more cost. But that was my
choice. You may choose to do as you wish.   One thing I
would like to add is that there is some wood blocking under
and in the back of the original unit. The read blocking is to
keep the unit from sliding aft (I assume) and the blocking
under the unit it to raise the unit to the level of that God
awful parquet flooring. I had tore out the blocking due to
a slightly different depth of the frige and the height had to
be lowered to equal new flooring I was putting in (teak and
holly).    I hope this helps clear up a few things. Also,
while I was in the refrigerator cabinet, I replaced the
generator room blower which had rusted and broken away.
That that opportunity to examine closely. You can get the
exact replacement from McMaster-Carr. No that expensive
and is quieter. I isolated mine with rubber washers.

Emory

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eshover
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Posted: February 14 2014 at 21:19 | IP Logged Quote eshover

"The read blocking" should read "The wood blocking"

ES

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Pete37
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Posted: February 14 2014 at 21:26 | IP Logged Quote Pete37


Hi All
Subject: Original Equipment Refrigerators

For some of you who still have the original equipmnt refrigerators aboard the following info may be of use:

The original refrigerator which came with “Interlude” was a GE, 19.5 Cu. Ft., No Frost, Refrigerator/Freezer, Model TFX20RH which runs on 115V 60Hz and was manufactured in 1987. It is 66.625” high by 30.5” wide by 31.25” deep according to the manufacturer and is a two door side-by-side model with an icemaker and in-door ice dispenser.
Actual measurements show it to be 67.3” high by 31” wide by 29.625” deep. The outer depth of the box is 26.375” deep. The box plus door is 28.75” deep and there is about o.75” of stuff sticking out beyond the back of the box.
Based upon the weight of similar refrigerators, the weight should be about 300 lbs.
With the door removed the box plus stuff sticking out behind the box is 27.152” which should just barely make it through the 27.5” width of the companionway between the lower and upper salons. The companionway handrail would have to be removed. The rear center upper salon window would have to be removed to get it out of the upper salon.
Based on the May 20, 2010 measurements of the refrigerator/freezer power consumption using a Kill-A-Watt meter the power consumption is 142.3 watts. At 120 volts that’s 1.19 amps and at 12 volts it is 11.9 amps. Duration of the test was 67 hours 2 minutes with a power consumption of 9.54 kWh.
Parts diagrams and parts availability can be found at http://www/appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/

Pete37

Edited by Pete37 on February 14 2014 at 21:28


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diveryates
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Posted: February 16 2014 at 14:22 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

NautiKall, hello all,
Bob,
As a point of clarification I admit I'm a bit of a stowaway. I originate from the BUS Catalina thread and Catalina Boat Owners (not BUS) threads. However, and with all due respect to Pete, the subject of muffler retrofitting where CC's use of identical suppliers and essentially identical design philosophy for both models is of such relevance and, in my humble view, of such importance and that any thread working the subject should be fair game for active participation.

It seems to me that the nature of internet social preference these days seems to have evolved to the point where it is desirable by folks to remain on one known quantity thread with a deep membership population as opposed to starting a new thread. Anyway, it just seems easier to get where I'm going this way.

On that note, I thought it might be productive to upload some images of the setup on our Catalina for purposes of comparison, clarification and perhaps to generate some possible out-of the-box thinking on the matter. One advantage to these images is that the Catalina is a much simpler machine where the exhaust system is easily seen and perhaps, illuminates the essential design elements such as seeing the down flow aspect, the orientation of the muffler in and outlets, how it was factory mounted and so on.

Below: The 1st shot is the single mount used where the muffler is, while maybe not intentionally done, renders it removable, the manner of the vibration material used and how it's secured: using some sort of very durable strapping material (not S.S. strapping) and is nailed top and bottom to the glassed in cradling. The front and back cap threading is easily seen. I'm unclear as to what the mufflers material is but the Mfg'r did use threading indicating they felt it essential in the assembly used in the early '80s. Also, note the ID label is under the top portion of the vibration rubber which will render it difficult to ID without removing that nailed-in strap- an iffy proposition- but it's there non-the-less.   


Below- This is the aft muffler cap, again, one can see the threading. Note the outlet cap is rotated outboard to the muffler's midline.


below- this is looking forward along the FG hose. The thing here is the amount of horizontal (but only about 3" vertically to the bilge floor) room available for adding a bigger muffler.



below- this show how the muffler is orientated, meaning the entrance and exit caps are off center rotated to the mid-point, outboard, not at the top or bottom. I think this is an important element in the design, allowing for water pooling.


Below- This the amount for space between the hull bottom and the exhaust hose at the outlet- about 3"- not much.



below- this shot looks forward from the muffler and how it maintains that down-drain angle as it runs into the muffler- another important aspect.



Below- this further illustrates how the muffler outlet is rotated outboard same as the inlet.



One of the main differences of course, is the Catalinas muffler is about 24" long by maybe 12" high, much smaller than on the Connies. However, it is the relative proportion given engine size that is very similar if not the same given CC's design philosophy. This is the key point on which I see the similarities of the retrofits here initiated or proposed. I am hoping that the dogma of 'larger is quieter' is undeniable - and most importantly changing from a' straight thru' to a 'Chambered' muffler product. I am optimistic I will be able to capitalize on the Catalina's extra horizontal space here shown.

finally, as an Engineer (clinical) I fully appreciate the luxury of lots of time to think thru projects like this. I see winter down times as an opportunity to really nail down the process and use whatever training I have to do something really cool. Input from the members on the forum is why I'm here. The Connies are a pretty complex item and those who enjoy tweaking them are just the sort of people with the sophistication to provide useful information.

Diver
    

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Pats2nd Connie
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Posted: February 16 2014 at 20:50 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

I heard it was a bluebird day in the Bay Area.

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Pete37
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Joined: November 12 2006
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Posted: February 23 2014 at 11:29 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Sea Doo Option

Well, it’s been about a week since the last post. Experience has shown that it takes someone to post starters to keep a forum together. Since the muffler crowd is off installing mufflers and I’m on vacation in Florida there hasn’t been any action. I’ve got my laptop here but it’s hard to type on. The “caps lock” key is right next to the “A” key and I keep hitting “A key” accidentally. I normally carry a separate keyboard but forgot to bring it this time.

The weather’s great here in Florida as it always is when compared to February weather in Maryland. Arlene and I are staying on the 16th floor of an oceanfront high rise time share on Sunrise Blvd in Ft. Lauderdale. It has a great view of the ocean with lots of yachts streaming by all day.

I’ve noticed a change in what the well-dressed motoryacht wears for a dinghy these days (at least in Florida). The old fashioned Whaler mounted on the FB has been replaced by a 3 seat Sea Doo mounted on the swim platform. Makes sense since the Sea Doo is totally enclosed and can’t be filled with water. Also, a Sea Doo with its rigging costs only about $7K while a Whaler rig goes for $15k to $20K. Part of the saving is that the Whaler requires a $5K pipe davit while the 500 lb. Sea Doo (mounted only 18” above the water line) can be lifted with a very cheap rig.

And while a Whaler mounted on the FB can be nearly impossible to launch or retrieve in any kind of sea the Sea Doo launches and retrieves very easily in any kind of weather.

If you are considering the addition of a dinghy to your Connie you should give the Sea Doo option a look at. Of course it doesn’t have to be a Sea Doo; any kind of PWC will do. And if you are willing to consider used a decent PWC can be had for under $4K.

Of course a Sea Doo is a bathing suit type of boat but that doesn’t seem to be any problem in Florida. In Maryland in February it would be a big problem though. Of course I wouldn’t want to be out in a Whaler either in February but from May through September bathing suit attire in Maryland would be suitable.

However, an inflatable mounted on the FB still seems to be the most popular rig; probably because of cost.

I went to the Miami Boat Show this year but after 30 miles of driving didn’t go in. In addition to the $30 admission they wanted $30 for parking. I decided to write the show off - permanently. They have about the same stuff every year and I’m getting bored with it.

Frankly, I’m a bit bored with the Annapolis Show too. But at least it’s much cheaper.

Pete37


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Pete37
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Posted: February 23 2014 at 22:14 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Pipe Davits

Pipe davits are the only davits suitable for mounting a large dinghy (such as a Whaler) on the flying bridge of a Connie. Or at least, to be more exact, they are the least expensive type of davit suitable for that use. Low profile davits work too but are much more expensive.

Davits which are attached to the surface of the FB aren’t sufficiently strong because the FB surface has a honeycomb construction which will not take heavy loads.

Several of our forum members have found that out the “hard way” with disastrous results.

Rather than trying to describe “pipe davits” in this post I will just refer you to www.nickjacksonco.com.

Pete37


Edited by Pete37 on February 23 2014 at 22:15


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NautiKall
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Posted: March 13 2014 at 17:10 | IP Logged Quote NautiKall

Muffler up-date from Nautikall.

Work was completed on February 19.  Too cold to de-winterize and run the engines to test.  On March 10 & 11 the temps in St. Louis were 80* F, so I de-winterized and ran the engines.  The result was that sound attenuation was  very noticeably improved.   A crowd gathered to witness the results.  We could stand behind the transom in the dock and carry on a normal conversation at idle speed and up to 1500 rpm.  At idle you could hear the "gurgle" of exhaust water discharging from the pipes.  I Have yet to run at 1800 rpm under load, but the results are amazingly positive.  We still have ice in the harbor.

Below are port side pix of theforward connection to muffler, discharge end and pipe run to the transom.
   





The following are pix of the Port side forward end, aft end and run to the transom.







I feel that I did everything I could have done to quiet my Detroit 671 TI engines and up-date from 1985 technology to what is available in 2014.  The results are rewarding.  I am through reporting on the project unless you have reasonable questions to which I will reply.

Bob K.              


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eshover
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Posted: March 13 2014 at 17:16 | IP Logged Quote eshover

That's great news Bob. If you're happy, that's all that
matters. I would love to have been there to hear what the
sound was.

Emory

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Pats2nd Connie
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Posted: March 13 2014 at 19:35 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

Great news Bob. I know I couldn't hear anything in Chicago, so they
must be quiet.

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David Ross
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Posted: March 14 2014 at 17:23 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Glad your new mufflers are much quiter Bob. You should enjoy cruising even more with less noise.



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