Posted: October 19 2009 at 20:02 | IP Logged

Pete,

Going back to the repowering topic, do you know if any of the new engines would be able to maintain proper water temperature while cruising at 6, 7 or 8 knots in our connies (unlike the 6v92's)? I wonder how a connie would have run as trawler with a single engine?????

Posted: October 19 2009 at 20:06 | IP Logged

Dave - You are doing everything right.  Just as the man told me.  Do you occasionally clean the plates? Do you use muratic acid?  Raritan has a product which is a little pricey but is claimed to work as well or better than the acid and will supposedly extend the life the plates.  Just wondering.

Posted: October 19 2009 at 21:50 | IP Logged

Hi Dave,

In order to keep an engine within its normal operating temperature range you are going to have to use an appreciable amount of its horsepower potential.  But at 6 to 8 knots you are using so little energy that you would have to go to engines with horsepower ratings in the 60-100 hp. range.  To make a Connie work like a trawler you are going to have to use trawler sized engines.

A pair of 80 hp Ford Lehman diesels would make a Connie a first class trawler.  And you could use the extra space in the engine room for a basketball court.

Pete37

Posted: October 19 2009 at 22:55 | IP Logged

Hi All,

There seems to be some confusion as to what In-Sinkerators are.  They are not instant water heaters.  An In-Sinkerator is just a very small thermostatically controlled hot water heater.  It heats up the water in its 1 gallon tank and holds it at the set temperature until water is used and then heats up the new water.  The temperature is usually set a little below boiling so that the water can be used for coffee, tea, etc.

Basically it's used when you want a quick cup of coffee or tea and don't want to go to the trouble of boiling water.  Similar devices (not made by In-Sinkerator) are quite popular in Europe.  They cost $100 to $200 and consume very small amounts of power.

Pete37

Posted: October 20 2009 at 00:08 | IP Logged

Hi Vicky,

The rumor that "Miss Perky" had blisters came from a post by Corey of "Monopoly" on December 5, 2008. Corey said he and his surveyor had the boat pulled in October, 2008 and found "hundreds of blisters on the bottom".

I didn't see them so I can't confirm that but I did say to Corey in reply to Corey's post that I thought that widespread blistering was very unusual on a Connie.

Your broker must be talking about a different prospective deal.

Pete37

Posted: October 20 2009 at 10:32 | IP Logged

Vicki and Emory,

Vicki, sounds like you have some good unique set ups. Also sounds like your slip fee includes electricity.... or at least I hope so, the electric bill must be very high.

Emory, yes cleaning the LectraSan plates will extend their life. I have used muratic acid. I am not familiar with Raritan's cleaning product. About nine years ago Raritan recomended using muratic acid and never mentioned they had a product to do so. They probably came out with something since then.

Posted: October 20 2009 at 10:46 | IP Logged

Hi Corey and Vicki,

Very strange that the new owner of "Miss Perky" doesn't know the boat has blisters.  And apparently he hasn't told his broker.  The broker is going to be pissed when he finds out that the owner hasn't been straightforward with him. 

But I checked the latest broker's ad. Somehow the price indicates that the boat has something wrong with it.  Perhaps the broker is being a bit disengenuous too.

Pete37

Posted: October 20 2009 at 11:36 | IP Logged

To everybody:

1.  Vintage Port has a shower/tub combo in the master, with a walk-in closet, kinda.  The closet door has mirrors on both sides. The door opener is a metal plate that had a wooden piece attached , which you would pull to open the doors.

The wood piece broke.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a replacement door-pull on the closet door?  My wife is getting tired of using vice grips on the metal plate that remains to open HER closet....(I'm not authorized to use it).

2.  With all the rain we had last week (Thurs, Fri, Sat, and Sat night), we noticed Sunday morning that the carpet from the starboard door next to the helm to the rear door to the line handling deck, for about a foot out from the wall, was soaked.  Anyone have any thoughts about how so much water could get to that area of the boat?  Reverse-air Heater and ice-maker are not the source - they are dry as a bone,as is the area under the wet-bar.   I am at a loss here.

3.  trash compactor: took ours out, installed a trash can on rollers, and above that, a single shelf for foodstuffs.  Works great.

4.  For Pete:  you have Vintage Port listed on your soot chart as having no soot. 

WRONG!   We soot up if I just start the engines for thier weekly run-up.

Posted: October 20 2009 at 11:48 | IP Logged

Pete et, al,

I have never performed a Condition and Valuation (C&V) survey on a brokered boat that the broker did not attend the survey.  Certainly not on a motoryacht the size of ours.  If the vessel was blistered to the extent you had described, the surveyor would certainly have discussed the number, size,  and type of blisters present with the buyer.  In most cases the broker is usually standing (or attempting to) close by to see how tough the surveyor is coming down on his "deal". 

And, while not common, CCC's do occasionally have blisters.  I surveyed a 1987 500 Connie at Hoffmasters Marina in Occoquan Virginia.  It was a one owner boat and had never traveled farther than the Bay.  All original nice boat.  When we hauled it, the starboard side of the hull was covered with small 1/2" osmotic blistering.  The port side had hardly any at all.  There was a soft spot in the keel I could have put a hammer through rather easily.  The buyer was a knowledgeable guy and didn't flinch.  He negotiated with the seller and bought the boat. The yard (and owner) repaird the keel.  Later he told me he traded a Harley Softtail to a glass guy who stripped and repaired the entire bottom.  Just talked with him last week.  Still has his Connie and still loves his Connie.  A lesser knowledgeable person would have run away from a very good buy on a very low hour, clean Connie.

Posted: October 20 2009 at 12:11 | IP Logged

Dave - here is the Raritan product I described.  Claimed to be much safer to handle than muratic acid.  http://www.raritaneng.com/products/cleaning_maintenance/clea ns_hoses.html

Baysaylor:  OH MAN!  I laughed so hard regarding your not having access to HER closet.  Over the last few years, I have noticed that I have less and less space in that closet (when does it change from being a locker to a closet?).  When I confronted Shirley a couple of weeks ago regarding how many "cute little tops" and how many pairs of "flipflops" does a woman need?  She replied; "All of them".  She informed me that its about time that I vacated my side of the closet and that I could have the office closet.  When I asked her what would I do with the tools than now reach the ceiling of the closet.....well....she cooly informed me that that was a personal problem.  I have not moved my stuff out as yet.  The perfect storm is brewing my friend.

Re your handle: can you fashion a "block" of wood, sand, stain and replace the existing one?  If you drill it and thru-bolt from the forward side, it should not be very noticeable to anyone.  Or how about a small piece of starboard?

Re your wet carpet:  while the rain may have, indeed, caused your wet carpet, it could also be simply coincidental.  First pull off the access panel to the city water inlet and examine for leaks.  I had one there the soaked my carpet.  Next, check the T-fitting that send water to the windshield washers.  I doubt that's the problem but worth checking as mine split and soaked the carpet above as well as the office below.  Have you checked the office space below for any water intrusion?  As hard as it rained, I still do not believe that the rain could have caused such a catastrophic leak.  That being said, I had my galley floor practically flood during a hard rain in Manteo one year and I thought the dishwasher hose or pump was leaking.  It turned out to be the forward part of the starboard window frame forward was leaking and allowing water to intrude and the water ran down the inside of the hull until it reached the FRP tabbing where the flooring is glass to the hull.  The tabbing directed the water straight down and under the dishwasher and galley floor.  What a lesson learned there.

Welsome to the "Sooters Club".   Wanna' buy a T-shirt?  They come pre-sooted! HA!

Sorry for the long reply.

Emory

Posted: October 20 2009 at 12:43 | IP Logged

Hi Baysalor and Banjoman,

Baysalor:

Sorry I said you were a non-sooter.  May I offer my profound apologies?  I will correct my records immediately.

On your closet door pull.  Have you thought about gluing the pull back together?  There are some damn good glues these days.  I have a closet in the master with double glass doors and a pull.  I'll look at it today and see if there is a replacement.

Re your leak problem.  The window frames in the upper salon were manufactured by Aluminum 2000 and are made of welded aluminum.  They have a box under the lower window track which collects the water off the window and drains it to the outside through weep slots near the bottom of the box.  First check those weep slots to make sure they are not clogged with debris.

Aluminum 2000 has a pdf file (under Windows/Sliding/1400) on the windows on their web site www.aluminum2000.com/ and if you look at it you can see where the weep slots are and the approximate construction of the windows.  Unfortunately they have updated their web site which used to show an exact diagram of the windows used on the Connies but at least the construction is similar.  If you need further information email me or call them.

But even if the slots are clogged the box shouldn't drain to the inside of the boat.  I suspect that the lower side of the box (near the weep slots) where it joins the outer flange of the window frame has corroded out and is leaking into the area between the outside wall of the cabin and the wooden inner trim of the cabin.

This is not an easy thing to fix and if it only occurs occasionally the best thing to do may be to ignore it.  But if you can't ignore it then after things get dry spray the outside of the window with a hose and see if the problem re-occurs.  Removing the inside wooden panels will make it easier to see the bottom of the window box and determine if it is leaking.

Baysalor and Banjoman:

I have the same problem with storage space.  Once the wife has taken posession of a space I can never get it back.  That applies to both the house and the boat.  We have enough towels and sheets aboard to handle an army.  But when I mention that she hasn't used that stuff for five years she just ignores me.

Banjoman:

I agree, sometimes a boat with blisters can be a bargain if the owner discounts it enough.

Pete37

Posted: October 20 2009 at 13:34 | IP Logged

Hi All,

Great News!  I've found a manufacturer who makes a product which will keep your bilges as dry as a desert.  That two inches of water sloshing around after the Rule pumps have finished is gone.  It's available in 2, 4 and 9 compartment models and requires very little plumbing.  And since the water it has to handle is just the residual after the Rule pumps are finished the pipes are very small.  I've looked at the pictures and talked to the company and it seems eminently practical.  It's been made since 2000.

But it costs $937.50 per compartment ($3750 for the four compartment model).  Anyone interested?  Check www.aridbilge.com or call 954-328-9705.

The reason I found Arid Bilge is that I've developed a system I call the Dri-Bilge I system that will get the bilge water down to less than 1/4" and wondered whether anyone had beat me to it and already patented such a system. 

Dri-Bilge I uses a series of small pump units connected to a master controller.  You can have as many pump units as you want for about $25 each and I think the controller will be about $50.  A Dri-Bilge II system which gets the water down to 1/16" is on the drawing board.  I expect it will cost over $300.  No thru-hulls are required for either system and both systems use the existing wiring for the Rule pumps to reduce wiring complexity.

The Arid Bilge system is obviously better but it's also much more expensive.

Pete37

Posted: October 20 2009 at 16:06 | IP Logged

Lots of stuff going on in the forum now!  Great!

I recently cleaned out the grate area inside my aft door and could not find any evidence of any drain out of this... if anyone does have a drain, pls let me know where to look again.  I am planning to put a "drip rail" on the aft door just above the bottom to move the water off the door (where it can run under the sill and into the grate pan) and onto the sill and away from the door.  I'll let everyone know how it works when I get this task done.

Like Pete, I have bilge pump work to do,,, the switch in the engine room compartment has failed and the forward pump pops the breaker after 10-15 seconds.  Bought two pumps and will be replacing over the next two weeks (I'm a batchelor while Admiral Marie is visiting grandson in California).  I will be looking at Pete's recent idea as well for my boat...

Emory and others, Marie sews quite a bit and has her "sewing stuff" stuffed in every cranny aboard... I share your "space pain"

Jim

Posted: October 20 2009 at 22:19 | IP Logged

Hi Vicki & Tony,

I have another foolproof system for eliminating leaks which has been working for years; get a covered slip.  Think that's silly?  Covered slips cost about 50% more than open slips so if your paying $4000 per year that's $6000 or $2000 extra bucks.  But you save more than you spend.

In the summertime you save half of your electric bill. The whole boat can be kept comfortable on two ACs on even the hottest August day.  When outside on the same day the boat really wouldn't be comfortable even with all five ACs working.  I spend about $1500 a year on electricity for the boat most of which is for summer AC.  Outside the bill would be at least $3000.  That's a saving of $1500 just for electricity.

But the wear and tear on the outside of your boat drops drastically too.  Varnish is good for the whole season and the whole boat becomes dry rather than damp.  Dust is your main problem rather than dry rot, mildew and mold.  The fiberglass ceases to chalk and wax jobs last a whole year.

Canvas lasts forever.  I have 22 year old canvas on my boat and while it has a few rips and tears in it (which have been mended) it still has plenty of life left.  The furniture on the FB remains dry and in good condition rather than becoming soggy and rotten from the rain.  Our Connies have cored decks and if moisture gets into them all hell breaks loose.  But that's not a problem in a covered slip.

On rainy days you can still putter around on outside jobs on your boat because while the rest of the world is wet your boat is dry.  The only time my boat gets wet is when I hose off the dust or when I'm underway.

I don't know of anyone who has had a covered slip who would consider any other way to go.  The covered slip more than pays for its higher rent with reduced maintenance and enhanced owner comfort.

Pete37

Posted: October 20 2009 at 22:52 | IP Logged

Hi All,

Furman has a good point.  Most the rain running down your windows originally struck the top of your FB or your FB canvas and then ran down the FB top to the cabin sides and then finally down the windows.

If you can divert that water away from running down the cabin sides you have eliminated most of the water flow over the windows and therefore most of the leaks as well. His Corian strips are one way to do the job but I'm sure that you guys can find a lot of ways to do it. 

Back in in the days of wooden boats a lot of boats had small (1/4" to 1/2") rain gutters on the sides of the cabin but Connies don't.  They were usually made of aluminum and held to sides of the wooden cabin with escutchen pins (small nails).  Today they would probably be made of plastic and bonded to the sides of the cabin.

Pete37

Posted: October 20 2009 at 23:14 | IP Logged

Hi Baysalor,

I looked at the door handle for the double glass doors in my master stateroom.  Unfortunately it may not be the same as yours.  Mine was pretty simple but is definitely not something you would find in a marine store.  I would try a store specializing in cabinetry for kitchen and bathroom upgrades.

Pete37

Posted: October 24 2009 at 12:12 | IP Logged

Hi, all.....

Any tips on how to geet the blue masking tape off after it has been on for a year?  The guy redoing my teak is very sloooow,  like Bill and Caroly Slowski in the commercials.  It has been on for a year or more now, and I get this horrible feeling in the pit of my stomach that he has just given up.  (which means he doesn't get paid).

I heard vodka works..... any truth to that?

Posted: October 24 2009 at 14:01 | IP Logged

Hi Vicki,

When I said $4K per year that was just as an example.  I actually pay only about $2600 per year which consists of $1100 for condo fees, $900 for insurance on the slip and $600 for taxes on the slip.  Years ago we saw rentals going out of sight and switched to slip ownership.  The slip we paid $60K for 20 years ago would cost over $120K now even with the depressed market.

The slip we purchased is 62' long, 19' wide and has a 28' high roof which doesn't feel claustrophobic at all.  And of course, we have a reserved and covered parking space directly (about 20') adjacent to the slip plus a heated swimming pool a short walk away.  Electricity costs about $1,500 per year but the cable TV, bubblers and frost free water are free.  Things are quite comfortable.

We do have to fight the bridge occasionally when we want to go to Annapolis but we're retired now so that's only once or twice a week.  We pick slow traffic times and have little trouble with the bridge.

Pete37

Posted: October 24 2009 at 14:15 | IP Logged

To change subject,

If you're going to the Ft. Lauderdale show stop by booth 165 (second tent as you enter) and say hello. We'll be peddling WaterCounter.  We share a booth with a ice making co.

Posted: October 24 2009 at 19:14 | IP Logged

Hi Baysalor,

Perhaps this will help:

Contributor

By Murray Anderson

At one time or another most of us have run into the problem of how to get old, dry masking tape off a window or a piece of furniture. Once masking tape has dried out it really sticks and hangs on like there’s no tomorrow. Sure you can scrape or sand it off, but that means you’ve got a whole new chore--trying to figure out how to repair the damage you just did removing the old masking tape. Well, here’s some tips on how you can get rid of that dried-out old tape. They all work to varying degrees--and if one doesn’t do the trick for you--simply try another.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

·         Warm water and a cloth

·         Hair dryer

·         Mineral spirits

·         Lacquer thinner

·         WD-40®

·         Razor blade

·         Murphy’s Oil Soap®

·         Goo Gone®

1.    Step 1

Start with an easy one using some warm water and a damp cloth. Wet the cloth and rub it over the dried-out tape, moistening it. Allow the moisture to work for a few minutes, then carefully peel back the tape. The warm, moist water should help soften the glue and the paper tape will peel off. You may need to use a razor blade to get rid of the residue

2.    Step 2

Turn on your hair dryer and play a stream of hot air on the old tape. The warm air should soften the glue and make it possible for you to carefully peel the tape off. Remember, this one is using heat (admittedly not too much), so consider if heat will damage the material the masking tape is stuck onto.

3.    Step 3

Use commercial products like Murphy’s Oil Soap®, WD-40®, and Goo Gone® to moisten and reactivate the glue on the tape and make it possible to peel the tape away. Here again, you may have to use a razor blade to get rid of small pieces of paper and glue left behind.

4.    Step 4

Applying chemical-like mineral spirits or lacquer thinner will help cut the glue, and you should be able to just wipe up the mess left behind. Never forget these are chemicals that could damage the surface as well as release the glue. So if you decide to use one of these products, I’d suggest you start with mineral spirits, since it’s milder and less likely to cause damage to the underlying surface.

Pete37

Posted: October 25 2009 at 22:57 | IP Logged

Hi Dave,

You are correct.  Hull #157 a 1987 model was first named "Sum-R-Fun", then "Tempus Fugit" and finally "Java".  I first saw her advertised in August 2003 at $317K when she was "Java".  But she went on the market in January 2002 so she's been on the market for 7 years and 10 months.  I think that's a record. Interestingly, she's been owned by the same guy for the whole 8 years.

She was the first Connie to have that double door at the rear of the upper salon that very few Connie 500s have.  Frankly though, I'm not sure the double door is an asset.

Pete37

Posted: October 26 2009 at 11:28 | IP Logged

Hello Everyone

I am a new member to this forum.  I have a 1987 501 with bad water tanks. I am looking for some advice on how to repair/replace these tanks. Some ideas that I had were to cut open access from the top of both tanks and fiberglass a liner inside of the tanks.  Does anyone know if the aft tank can be accessed from the top? The forward tank has easy access.  I have also found a product called Brew Coat     http://www.sscoatings.net/brewcoat-info.htm   which can be sprayed or rolled to the inside of the tank. 

Thanks

Allen

Posted: October 26 2009 at 11:54 | IP Logged

Hi Allen,

So you're the guy who bought Charlie Manno's boat.  Welcome aboard!  We've had several owners who have repaired or replaced their water tanks.  Emory is the expert on that, has written an excellent article on the subject and can probably email you a copy.  Unfortunately the construction of 501s is slightly different than 500s so everything may not be the same.

I doubt there is anything which is going to stick to the inside of a corroded aluminum tank for very long.  The problem is that, regardless of what sealant is used, the aluminum continues to corrode and crumble leaving the sealant nothing to adhere to. You may get a temporary seal but it won't last long. 

However, there is one guy who tried the sealant route.  As I recall it was rather expensive and I doubt it's been in long enough to tell whether it will last.  Perhaps he will see this post and reply on his experience.

Generally though, replacing the water tank is a real messy and expensive job.  Emory is a "Do It Yourself" guy.  If you are not and have to hire professionals to do it for you prepare to shell out thousands of dollars.

Wish I could be more upbeat on the water tank job.

Pete37

Posted: October 26 2009 at 12:13 | IP Logged

Hi Allen!

Welcome to the "family"!!  Emory's water tank replacement narrative and pictures can be found on www.ccconstellation.com under the "Projects" button from the home page.  BTW, the message area is non functioning (web host issue) and I am removing the site later this year due to lack of use... get it while you can!

Jim

Posted: October 26 2009 at 13:02 | IP Logged

Thank you for your welcome.

Pete, yes this is Charlie's old boat,  Hull #4.  I have already put more hours on it in 9 months than he did in the 5 years that he owned it.  (not hard) Got most of its bugs worked out except for these water tanks.  This is going to be my winter project. I do not believe that the 160 gallon water tank will come out with major removal of the interior.  Unlike the 500, the 501 water tank is located directly under a cabin wall.  I was going to attempt to build a fiberglass tank inside of the old tank and let the old tank continue to rot away untill it is gone, leaving me with a fiberglass watertank.  My main question is,  anyone knows if the baffels are attached to just the sides of the ond tank or also on the top and bottom? I think it is the same 160 gal tank used in the 500. 

Jim, thanks for the article. I think I can remove the forward (100 gal) water tank and replace it as Emory did.

Thanks

Allen

Posted: October 26 2009 at 23:45 | IP Logged

Hi Allen,

For information of the water tank call Florida Marine Tanks, 305-620-9030.  They have drawings of all the tanks used on the Connies.  But Emory should know about the baffles too.

Emory's article is on the Forum CD too but I see you already have a copy from Jim.

I doubt your aluminum water tanks will ever completely rot away.  They will be still be there 50 years from now pretty much intact when they scrap the boat.  If you can cut an access hole in the tank and find the source of the leak you might be able to weld in a patch from the inside.  Then you could seal your access hole with a hatch and continue using the tank.  But there could be other places where  further leaks could develop.  Replacing the tank is the best route. 

I know that when I look at my boat it appears that there is a wall over the tank  but actually the wall is not over the tank.  If a wall is in the way it may have to be removed. But you would probably need a pro to put it back together in a presentable fashion.

Your Connie is the fourth 501 built but its hull number is 114 and that's where the data is kept in the forum archives.

Pete37

Posted: October 27 2009 at 11:58 | IP Logged

Hi All,

It's that time of year and I'm planning my winterization; a job I hate and manage to string out for over a month.  Last year I got a shock when I found antifreeze was over $14 per gallon.  The capacity of the 6V92 cooling system is 15 gallons and to protect it to -12 F you need 6 gallons of antifreeze. For two engines that's 12 gallons @ $14 per gallon or $168.  So this year I decided to shop around to see what prices I could get for antifreeze.

There are two types available; Regular and Extended Life.  Extended Life is supposed to last for 5 years but the life of Regular isn't specified.  I always assumed about two years.

So far I've checked two places and here is what I've found out:

Regular Life Antifreeze
NAPA had regular life antifreeze for $9.07.  To protect to -12 F it would take 12 gallons (6 gallons per engine) at $9.07 per gallon for a total cost of $108.84.
AAP had regular life antifreeze for $10.99.  To protect to -12 F it would take 12 gallons (6 gallons per engine) at $10.99 per gallon for a total cost of $131.88.

Extended Life Antifreeze
NAPA had Extended Life antifreeze for $11.41. To protect to -12 F it would take 12 gallons (6 gallons per engine) at $11.41 per gallon for a total cost of $136.92.
AAP had Extended Life antifreeze for $14.99. To protect to -12 F it would take 12 gallons (6 gallons per engine) at $14.99 per gallon for a total cost of $179.88.

So, just based on two stores, the cost of antifreeze runs from $109 to $180.  Not too far from a 2:1 ratio.  I guess the NAPA stuff is OK so if I use Regular antifreeze I think I'll use the NAPA stuff at $108.84.  Also, if I use the Extended Life antifreeze I'll use the NAPA stuff at $131.88.  I'm inclined to buy the Extended Life stuff because it's cheaper on a per year basis and also saves a lot of trouble changing antifreeze every year or two.

Are any of you getting better prices?  Does anyone know of any reason why the Extended Life antifreeze wouldn't be acceptable on a marine diesel?

Dexcool-type extended life coolants use organic acid technology to inhibit corrosion, and are referred to as  OAT based coolants. OAT antifreezes  are touted as having longer potential service life than conventional antifreezes because of the fact that the components in the additive package are not chemically consumed as they perform their function of inhibiting corrosion. The chemicals used in the OAT type formulas protect metals from corrosion by forming a thin, molecular coating on them, and because of this, are not as fast acting as conventional inorganic formulas. However,  as long as the cooling system is kept sufficiently full and coolant is not lost due to leakage nor diluted by top-off with water or conventional antifreeze, it will continue to function properly. Unfortunately, if the cooling system is not properly maintained, a “red muck” is likely to form and could cause serious cooling system problems..

Pete37

Posted: October 27 2009 at 12:39 | IP Logged

Pete - I assume by what you are saying, you run anti-freeze through your sea water side for winterization. Is that correct? I not, do you change out your coolant every year?  If so, that sounds terribly excessive.  Maybe I'm readying your missive incorrectly.

I have owned my boat for 7 winters now and have never run antifreeze through the raw water side for winterization.  I pull the end plates off the exchangers and drain them, I pull the end plates off the raw water pumps and drain them.  I open all sea water petcocks and drain them.  I use a wet-dry vac to evacuate the water from the strainers.  I usually put a little antifreeze in the strainers just in case a little water seeps by.  However, I DO run antifreeze (pink stuff) throught the genset strainer because its easier and one gallon is sufficient. 

As a matter of fact, for the first time last year, I did not run any pink stuff through the freshwater side.  It's just getting too damned expensive!  I bought an adapter (avialable from any RV store) that allows me to pressurize and blow out the water.  I have done that on RV's in the past with great success.  I had no burst pipes during Spring commissioning.  However, one must be patient and repeat the process from any and all dock side connections (I have three).  I start at the foredeck and work my way back.  DO NOT FORGET THE WINDSCREEN WASHERS!  I remove the supply line at the icemaker and let it drain into a towel.  Etc, etc.   If you have installed filter cartridges on your icemaker, make sure to remove that and drain, just to be safe.  They will hold enough water to freeze and crack.  I know.

Of course I run some antifreeze (pink stuff) throught the drains and toilets.  The problem I have with that is, now that I have added the ElectroScan Hold n' Treat system, I cannot allow antifreeze to enter the treatment "box". The antifreeze can damage the plates.   But my tank is a 50 gallon holding tank and I am in good shape for next Spring until I get a pump out to remove the antifreeze and start up the ElectroScan for next season.

You are right about this being a dreaded process.  Shirley and I hope to move the boat south in the next couple of winters (maybe Charleston or Beaufort) and forget the whole process.

Emory

Posted: October 27 2009 at 12:43 | IP Logged

Hi Emory,

No, of course I don't run antifreeze through the raw water side of my engine cooling systems.  I have a much cheaper antifreeze for that.  It's called "air".  I drain the raw water side of my cooling system.  Been doing that on this boat for 15 years with no problems.

Pete37

Posted: October 27 2009 at 12:47 | IP Logged

Pete - Well I thought so!  But I know how particular you are, so I wasn't certain.

Nonetheless, I hate winter.  ES

Posted: October 27 2009 at 12:51 | IP Logged

Hey Baysaylor - I don't recall seeing a post on whether or not you found your water leak.  Where was it?  What was the cure?

Posted: October 27 2009 at 13:15 | IP Logged

Grey Goose - thanks for the call yesterday. Upon reviewing my photos, I found that I did not take a photo of the baffle itself.  My bad!  However, I called my friend who helped my and he has a much younger brain with many more active cells than mine.  We both agreed that we recall the baffles as being spot welded both top, bottom and sides.  It is our opinion that should you be able to get to enough of the top of the tank so as to remove the baffles and grind down the sharp edges, it would be "money-in-the-bank" to go to the effort of removing the old tank (if at all possible) and install a new tank.

Now here's my opinion only.  The 500's have been running around for 30 years with 160 gallon capacity and doing very well.  Since you can get to the 100 gallon tank relatively easy for replacement, why not cut out the 160 gallon tank and go back in with as big a plastic tank as possible?  Or maybe two interconnected?  Do you really need to achieve 260 gallons of water capacity? 

If I can be of any help, do not hestiate to call.  Sometimes simply brainstorming these things allows us to come up with a better mousetrap.

Good luck Allen and please keep us posted on your progress.

Emory