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David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: January 09 2007 at 19:46 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

To All: 

I am looking for an emergency handle for a Maxwell windlass model VWC-1000. 

Also, has anyone replaced or had a problem with rotten or soft wood on the battery deck?  As mentioned previously, my 500 bilges are completely dry.  However this was not the case when I bought the boat in 1998.  The prior rudder, shaft and polybutylene pipe leaks took its toll on the battery support deck.  This wood deck (over the bilge and between the engines) had soft wood just forward of the batteries at the bilge cutout.

The last time I checked the boat, the weight of the batteries finally caused the center of the deck to sag toward the center of the bilge along with the two front battery boxes (I have four there).  The outer sides of the wood deck appears OK.  The center just gave way.  The deck also appears solid a little further back.  The next time I check the boat I will disconnect the batteries, remove the front two and see if I can somehow repair or replace the rotten part of the deck.

Dave  "Good Spirits"



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DAVE
GOOD SPIRITS
500 CONSTELLATION (1987)
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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: January 09 2007 at 20:42 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave,

I have a VWC-1000 emergency handle but unfortunately I also have a Maxwell VWC-1000 winch so I can't spare it.  My winch is getting old and I can see the day not too many years away when it will have to be replaced.  I've talked to Maxwell but they are no help.  They don't have parts anymore.  But check with Maxwell anyway, a handle for one of their other winches might work.

The latest phone number I have for Maxwell is 949-631-2634. I also have a note in my Maxwell Marine files dated 4/20/2005 that says the Australian Yacht Winch Company has purchased all the tooling and spare parts stock for Maxwell winches. Try http://www.arco-winches.com/maxwellspares.html  I tried it and it works but I haven't tried to get any parts from them.

BTW I've had a couple of occasions when I've had to use the handle.  It works but it's a lot of work.  Wouldn't want to depend on it in an emergency.  But it's better than nothing.

The deck you refer to is just a piece of about 1/2 inch thick plywood epoxyed onto the bilge between the engine stringers.  It provides a place to mount things in the bilge without having to drill into the hull.  And the space under it provides a passageway for bilge water to flow to the various bilge pumps.  If you can get the bilge dry and clean it shouldn't be too difficult to replace it.  It could probably be removed with a skill saw carefully set so that it doesn't cut into the hull. 

You could also probably leave the old deck in place.  Just cut away the rotten parts in the center and screw/epoxy a new deck onto the sides of the old deck.  It will be a lot of work moving the batteries out of the way but the actual deck replacement shouldn't be too bad.

The front two batteries are the ship's service batteries so you won't have any juice to the bilge pumps while they are removed.  At least that's the way it works in my boat.

Pete37

 



Edited by Pete37 on January 09 2007 at 20:49


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Fantasy
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Joined: November 30 2006
Posts: 324
Posted: January 09 2007 at 22:15 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Hi Commodore Dave,

I've got the same battery deck issue.  Those 4 8D's are just too much weight on the plywood.  If you do glass-in another piece, it would be best to lay in one or two rot resistant support braces below the plywood, along the keel, so it doesn't soon happen again.

I haven't gotten to that project yet but for now I've put down treated 2x4's perpendicular to the keel.  It raises the battery boxes higher than I like but at least they are level and not tilted to the center. 

John



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"Fantasy"
460 Chris Craft Constellation
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David Ross
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Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: January 12 2007 at 12:09 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Thanks Pete and John for your comments on the batetery deck situation and, Pete, I'll try the maxwell sources.  Speaking of batteries my starboard engine turned over a little slow in the beginning of the season last year and progressively became harder to start.  I cleaned all the battery leads and terminals but no differance.  Then I used the helm parallel switch and it would start right up.  I figured a weak battery.  Than during the season the engined cranked over slower even with the parallel switch. At winterization (the weather was near 70) the engine turned over slowly and then nothing just clicking.  I let it sit for a few hours and barely managed to get it started.  

I haven't done a battery cell or electrical starting test yet.  The batteries were only two years old when this problem occurred.  The port engine always started right up so I would think if it's a bad starboard battery the port engine would start when paralleled.  I'm thinking a bad ground or connection.  Maybe the battery ground on the engine was painted over with the wire off when I had the engines painted in the spring.  Any comments or ideas?

Also anyone's helm doors almost impossible to open when the temperature dips in the winter?  Not a problem yet this year with the mild weather.

Dave  "Good Spirits"

 



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Fantasy
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Posted: January 12 2007 at 16:56 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Hey Dave,

As I'm sure you know, there are a lot of things that could cause the condition you describe.  It sure wouldn't hurt to check and clean all of the terminals (both cable ends) before you go further.  My house batteries failed this fall but they were 5 seasons old.  Obviously, you should get more than two seasons if the batteries have been maintained.

Since the boat probably sat for awhile and assuming your battery(ies) are not up to full charge, the charger or charger wiring may be suspect.  Last spring, I decided to remove my Guest charger.  It hadn't been working (I use the inverter/charger instead), so I  pulled it out to junk it.  Before I threw it out, I took it apart and found a corroded internal ground.  I cleaned it up and reassembled it and now it works fine.

I wouldn't think an alternator is bad unless you ran the boat and the battery still didn't come up.  Again, terminals are the first thing to check but you can also try turning the selector switch on the aft engine room bulkhead to the "on" position.  This is the same as paralleling the batteries while you're running and it will bring both batteries up if just one of the alternators is bad and the connections are good.  I once ran from South Carolina to Maryland that way.  Now I carry a spare alternator.

Re: the doors, here in Georgia, we've had a few nights that dipped into the 30's and yes the doors stick.  Obviously, something is contracting but I don't really understand it.  I thought about planing the door edge but was worried about a gap when it warms up.  We're leaving for Florida tomorrow and that should correct the problem:)

John



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"Fantasy"
460 Chris Craft Constellation
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Furman1
"Deckhand"




Joined: November 27 2006
Posts: 227
Posted: January 12 2007 at 17:31 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

Dave, One of the first things I would do is to top off all the batteries with distilled water and turn the charger on manuel for about 24 hrs. This will equalize the charge on the batteries. I would then top off any water that had boiled off and put the charger back on automatic. If you have the orginal charger though being a good charger it will sense if one battery is low and charge all of them. Sometimes it will sense one low and one fully charged if that happens it will go crazy cycleing on and off. I also turn off my charger while underway. Not knowing what type of charger you have I am assuming it is a Sentry like mine.

Furman



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Pete37
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Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: January 13 2007 at 12:58 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave,

Yes, when the weather gets cold the fiberglass shrinks and the side doors jam.  I fixed mine by sanding the edges.  They are still a little tight on really cold days but they don't completely jam.  Perhaps I should sand a little more.  When you sand, you have to revarnish which adds a little thickness back on the door so it's a bit of a trial and error process.

I had starting symptoms like yours on my starboard engine last summer.  It turned out to be a burned out starter motor.  Look for signs of overheating at the power input to the starter.  The starboard starter is in a terrible location on 500s; right up against the starboard fuel tank and extremely difficult to remove.  It took my mechanic more than three hours to get the first bolt out and about four hours to completely remove the starter.  The starter then took a trip to the rebuilder, returned and was reinstalled by the mechanic.  And finally the bill arrived; about $1,350.  I sure hope that's not your problem.

If it should turn out that the starter is your problem, be careful about trying to remove the bolts.  If you damage the heads the only thing that will get the starter out is nitroglycerin.

Obviously you should check the battery voltage and do a hydrometer test on the batteries.  Also check to make sure that the power and ground cables are in good shape and firmly bolted to their terminals.  But while you are at it look at the condition of the starter too.

I'm interested in your engine painting job.  My engines badly need repainting.  Who did the painting, how much did it cost and are you satisfied with it?

Pete37



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Ken27
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Joined: December 12 2006
Posts: 138
Posted: January 13 2007 at 13:16 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Hi Pete,

I just had our engines painted.  First they pressure washed the entire engine compartment and engines.  After they dried thoroughly, they masked everything that shouldn't be painted, all the fittings, hoses, etc.  Then they painted with an airless sprayer.  The carpeting has been removed so this made it a lot easier as we were able to lift the hatches above the engines.  They look like fresh, out of the box, new engines!  Very impressive!  I think the cost will come in around $800.  It's a bit of money but I believe worth every penny.

I have photos in an e-mail but I don't have a clue how to get them posted here.  If you could walk me through the process, I'd be happy to send them for everyone to see.

Ken

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Ken27
"Deckhand"




Joined: December 12 2006
Posts: 138
Posted: January 13 2007 at 13:46 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Pete,

I tried to send one, but it looks like it didn't work.  This shows what a computer rookie I am.  Oh well.

Ken



Edited by Ken27 on January 13 2007 at 13:48
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Pete37
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Joined: November 12 2006
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Posted: January 13 2007 at 16:40 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken27,

To post a picture you just go to the icon above the text box on the right hand end of the top row.  Put your curser over the icon and it will say "Image Upload".  Click on it and you will get a "Browse" window where you can browse through the files in your computer to find the picture you want to upload.

It's a good idea to know the name and location of the picture you want to upload before you start the upload process.  The file should have a jpg suffix and must be less than 100 kb. Set your curser about where you want the picture to appear before you open the browse box.

Now open the picture you want to upload and its name will appear in the browse box name line. Click "OK" and the picture will upload.  Look for the corner handles on the picture (those are the little square boxes at the corners of the picture) and size the picture down until it fits in your post.  Don't grab the handles at the centers of the sides.  They will distort the picture.  The picture above has intentionally been distorted by pulling on the side handles.  I call it the Chris Craft Constellation 880.  The one below, produced by pulling on the top handle is called the Chris Craft Constellation 220.  Neither was ever produced.

When you are finished positioning the picture, click outside the picture and the handles will go away.  You can type more text above or below the picture and the picture will automatically position itself. 

Thanks for the info on the engine paint job.  What did this painter specialize in; cars or boats?

Good luck, give uploading a try,

Pete37

 



Edited by Pete37 on January 13 2007 at 17:14


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Pete37
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Posted: January 23 2007 at 16:14 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

December 9, 2006

To All,

From Captain Ron,

I have a 1985 CC Constellation 500, named Pazzaz that has been extensively modified and proven to be an exceptional vessel.  Pazzaz is kept in the NW Anacortes, Washington under covered moorage.  She is the largest 50' craft available and we have owned her for 20 years.  The work we did was in lieu of purchasing a new boat.

First of all the keel was lengthened 6 feet to improve tracking in rough water. Second the hull was extended 5 feet to provide a lazerette for needed outside storage and to increase the WLL without moving the rudders.  Even with adding 350 gallons of fuel to the lazerette and much gear, Pazzaz looks like a little Burger when underway. 

She was completely painted with 3 part paint, all the fittings were replaced or replated, an aft radar arch added, all the aluminum portlights replaced, new Becksons, 1 1/4" one piece rails installed, a stern mounted fork davit (Nick Jackson) for a 12' hard bottom dinghy with a 40 horse 4 stroke, and a Nick Jackson pipe davit mounted on the flybridge to raise and lower a Suzuki 250 Motorcycle which has opened a completely new fold to cruising.  I also added a curved stairway leading off the aft exit and in fact changed the position of the aft exit to almost the center of the transom.

My engines are the J&T 6-92 rated at 550 HP. I have 12 and 24 volt systems with the 24 volts handling the bow thruster and inverter duties.  I think I have done it all on this model CC so if I can be of assistance contact me.

The water leak coming down the stern door can easily be remedied by cutting a triangular piece of teak with rounded points the length of the door -1" and mount it horizontally close to the door jam.  Make sure you make it wide enough to carry the water past the threshhold angle or about 2".  Works like a charm.  Other water leaks that drove me crazy came from inadequate or no caulking at the top of both wing doors.

The fuel burn talked about by your readers is astonishing to me.  I have flowscan gauges and find them to be very accurate. At 12 knots, 1450 rpm I am burning 22 gph both engines.  At 1900 rpm, my best cruise speed for comfort, 17 knots and 42 gph.  These are all at full fuel and water.  Pazzaz weighs in at 70,000 lbs. with the new extension and 950 gallons of fuel.

Thanks for the site.  It is good to see others enjoy a great vessel.

Captain Ron

 



Edited by Pete37 on January 23 2007 at 16:18


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Pete37
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Posted: January 23 2007 at 16:51 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

To All,

From Pete37,

The post above was sent to me by Captain Ron because he was having trouble getting on the site.  It was written on December 9th but didn't get to me until January 22nd (by snail mail).  I have typed and posted it in for Ron.  Hope I didn't make any big mistakes.

Ron said he would send a picture of his boat soon.  Either he or I will post it.  I'll give him a hand and hopefully he will be posting regularly soon.  As an owner of 20 years he ought to have experience with just about everything on a Connie that can break.

We now have two extended Connie 500s.  Extended motoryachts are usually called yachtfishers or cockpit motoryachts.  I once nearly bought a 58' Hatteras cockpit motoryacht but didn't have the cash at the time.  I have finally found the name and address of the owner of the other Connie cockpit motor yacht and will send a letter to him telling him about this site.

For those of you interested in having a Connie rendeszous on the Chesapeake this summer, I have checked my records carefully and find that I have the names and addresses for 46 Connie types on or near the Chesapeake.  This includes all boats in MD, NJ, DE, PA, DC and VA.  There are 18 boats whose owners live in MD.  When I say Connie types I mean Pacemaker 46s, Uniflite 460s, CC Constellation 460s, CC Constellation 500s and CC Constellation 501s.  All of these were made from the same 1977 David Martin  design. I haven't found a CC Constellation 410 near the Chesapeake yet. 

Letters are going out to all 1986 Connie owners very soon to tell them of the existance of this forum and that should create some more activity on the site.  Please be nice to the newbies.  We seem to be in the midwinter boating doldrums.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on January 23 2007 at 16:58


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Fantasy
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Posted: January 23 2007 at 17:55 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

I'd love to see a picture of that boat!

As I mentioned before, I also added a teak strip.  It diverts 95% of the water but a small amount still gets in, between the strip and the hinge side of the jamb.  Water rolls toward the lower right shown in this photo.

John



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460 Chris Craft Constellation
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Ken27
"Deckhand"




Joined: December 12 2006
Posts: 138
Posted: February 03 2007 at 14:51 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Greetings everyone,

Does anyone have a recommendation for some kind of a simple security system, 12 volt, for our boats?  I already have an intruder alarm, but would like something for the outside.  I thought about motion activated lights at each of the three entrances.  I've located 12 volt motion sensors that could be wired to some kind of light.  I'd like the lights to be brighter than the courtesy lights we all have at each door. 

A friend of mine installed a very sophisticated system that he can communicate with via cel phone.  It'll even call him if there's a problem.  However, he's got over $3500 invested in the system.  That's a lot more then I want to spend on it.

Thanks,

Ken 

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Fantasy
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Posted: February 03 2007 at 16:58 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Here's a low tech idea.  I know some folks who leave a small TV on 24/7.  The flickering light is a deterent because you're never sure if anyone's onboard or not.  I suppose you could use a cheap pocket inverter if you wanted to make it 12V in case of a power failure.

Onboard motion sensors would need to have a very narrow beam aimed at the boat (as opposed to the boat and dock) to avoid frequent falsing.  Let us know what you end up doing.

John



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David Ross
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Posted: February 08 2007 at 17:23 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

To Furman, Pete, John. Ken & All on various topics:

Thanks for your responses on my engine starting problem.  Looks like I have some trouble shooting to do in the Spring.  Furman, I have the original Professional Mariner 80 amp ferro-resonant battery charger.  It just has an on/off switch.  I had it repaired about six years ago.  I was told a bad battery caused damage and to always replace the house or engine batteries in pairs even if one is still good.

The hard to open helm doors in cold weather may be caused by the metal latch on the door expanding and/or a couple tight spots along the door edge.  I was considering recessing that latch slightly.  I am also reluctant to shave the door fearing a larger gap in the summer.  I like John's solution of moving the boat south.



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DAVE
GOOD SPIRITS
500 CONSTELLATION (1987)
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David Ross
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Posted: February 08 2007 at 17:35 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Sorry, here is more.

My 500 does not appear to list.  However I do get one small puddle along the port and starboard gunwale near the fuel deck fitting.  The more aggravating  situation is the water run-off streaks down the hull.  I plan to install or white plastic pieces as deflectors under the openings by slipping them under the stainless strip on the rubrail.  John used plastic strips cut from milk cartons and clear caulked them under the drain gaps.  How has that worked, John?  Too bad CC didn't do a better job of sloping the decks and use through hull drains like those on the bow.

Pete, I had my engines cleaned and painted after a turbo riser let go which completed blackened the engines and engine room, so my cost was on the high side.  Ken said his paint work was done for $800 including prep and taping of all fittings and hoses and looked factory fresh.  That sounds like a BARGAIN!!  I would expect prices two or three times higher.  Just the taping alone on 6V92's is time consuming.  That is why a lot of new models come with painted fittings and hoses. 

After my engine room was painted I replaced the above engine above engine single tube flouresent lights with enclosed double tube units.  Much brighter and safer.  I also installed a 110 volt covered light behind the port engine to match the exsiting starboard one (from which I ran the wiring).  Also replaced the 12v plastic covered fixtures with round metal dome ones.  I also replaced all the single tube 12v floursecent lights in the head, galley, and staterooms with double tube, higher wattage units.  They have the same appearance as the original ones, but a bit longer.  They are an easy, direct replacement to install and available from West Marine catalog.

Pete - you mentioned you weren't a fan of stabilizers.  My boat came with them and they are GREAT!  They add a little extra to the pleasure part of boating.  As you know, the Constellations are pretty stable from the factory, but with the stablizers there is not side-to-side roll and you don't have to alter course to cross over wakes.

This site has been a good source of information and exchange and can only become better as more sign on.  In the future, maybe a section could be set up for known problems, issues and possible solutions.

Dave,  Good Spirits



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Pete37
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Posted: February 10 2007 at 17:45 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave & All,

I'm working from a hotel room in Palm Beach, FL on a laptop and still a little bit disorganized so please excuse the misspellings.  I too had a riser blow and it also completely blackened the engine room.  Repairs were over $20,000.  In one of the early posts on this site I warned of risers blowing but I think that most owners thought "It won't happen to me." and ignored it.  If you have cast iron risers older than 7 years you are living on borrowed time.  Replace them before they blow!

I don't think that saying this a second time is going to do much good because most owners won't spot the telltale symptoms of a riser getting ready to blow.  The symptoms are usually just a little soot around the flanges of the risers.  A casual look will leave the owner thinking that they are in good shape.  But the next day they blow.

The estimate I got for painting the engines was about $2,000 but this was just an off the cuff estimate in which the painter hadn't seen the engines.  I've thought about painting them myself but it's an awful lot of work and if it isn't done right will just make the engines look worse.

The latest problem I'm having in the engine room is that the sound insulation is begining to disintegrate and is leaving black powder over everything.  I think I can fix this myself but again it's a lot of work.

My engine room does not have flourescent lighting.  Have thought about putting it in but wondered whether the lights would have to be special severe duty lights.  What brand and type do you use?

In my rush to get ready for the trip to FL I didn't have time to get the letters mailed out to the owners of 1986 Connies so that will have to wait until March.  We seem to be in midwinter doldrums right now but I think things on the site will perk up when owners start dewinterizing their boats.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on February 10 2007 at 17:59


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Pete37
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Posted: February 10 2007 at 19:00 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken27,

The two key items in a burglar alarm system are a bell and a box.  The bell is obviously the alarm and the louder it is the better.  There is nothing that will shatter a burglar's nerves more that a loud bell especially if it can be heard outside as well as inside.  The next thing you need is a metal box to protect the bell because the first thing the burglar will do is to try to disable the bell.  It should heavy metal and the door protected with a substantial padlock.  Wires to the bell should be hidden so the burglar can't simply cut the wires.  A dummy bell box is sometimes useful.  The burglar will disable the dummy bell only to get caught by the real bell.

The next thing you need is sensing devices such as pressure switches, light beams, etc.  These are all available in mutitudinous forms from burglar alarm companies you can find on the web.  You can even get some burglar alarm devices at Sears Roebuck.  You will also need a control panel to connect all the devices together and to disable the system.  Again they are available from alarm supply companies and can either be expensive and complex or cheap and simple.

The best burglar alarm system is one that discourages the burglar from ever attempting the burglary because even if the alarm system chases the burglar away he can do considerable damage in the attempt.  At least one bell & box should be easily seen to discourage the burglar.  It should be of professional quality and actually capable of working because if the burglar discovers it is fake he will proceed with the burglary.  A second hidden box should actually do the alarming.

Pete37



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Posted: February 10 2007 at 20:56 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi



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Pete37
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Posted: February 10 2007 at 21:05 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi David,

I don't know what comment I made that led you to believe that I don't like stabilizers.  If they came as a no cost option I would take them in a New York heartbeat.  However, they are expensive and I don't think really necessary on a 50' Connie.  But that's a matter of personal comfort.

I had side doors that were sticky in cold weather and solved the problem by hand sanding their edges.  It takes only only 5 to 10 thousandths of an inch clearance during warm weather to solve the cold weather sticking problem.  Use machinist's metal feeler gauges to tell how much clearance you have.  Trimming the doors down with a plane takes off far too much material.  After sanding you will have to revarnish the edges of the doors which adds back about 3 thousandths of an inch.  If after revarnishing the doors stick again, sand off a little more and revarnish.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on February 10 2007 at 21:32


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Fantasy
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Posted: February 12 2007 at 11:36 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Hi Dave,

The plastic milk carton material works fine to divert water off of the rub rail (instead of down the hull), although I have my eye out for a more durable thin plastic that will hold up better to UV rays.  My intention was to insert it under the stainless strip but I could not easily back out the screws and didn't want to break any off.  A few dabs of clear silicone below the stainless have done the trick with occasional maintenance.  It's fast, cheap and nearly invisible.

As far as the doors go, I checked mine out and see that there is a 1/8th inch gap at the top and at the bottom along the vertical latching side.  The middle, just above the latch, barely clears and scuffs the jamb when it's cold (it's 70 this morning, so it's OK).  I took a 5' metal straight edge and found that all of the curvature is on the jamb side, both doors are true.  On a house, you might try to correct the jamb but that won't work for us.

My planer is adjustable down to 1/64" so I'll probably take one or two passes around the center of the door's edge.  I don't think it will be noticable, especially given the larger gap at the top and bottom.

By the way, many people don't realize that there needs to be a slight bevel on a door edge so that it clears the jamb when it swings.  If the edge had 90' corners, you would need a much larger gap in order to clear.

John



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David Ross
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Posted: February 15 2007 at 13:17 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Hi John

Good suggestions on the helm doors, but you didn't have to mention it was 70 degrees.  All I see out the window is ice, snow and cold winds.

Hopefuul the screws on my stainlees strip on the rub rail will back out easily since it was recently replaced.  For the deck drain deflectors I plan to use either clear Strata-Glass (or similar enclosure piece) or white plastic (Frost King) strips.  Sea Wolf at our marina used the latter.



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David Ross
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Posted: February 15 2007 at 13:50 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Hi Pete

I think I confused someone elses comments from another source other then this forum about stabilizers not being your cup of tea.  Sorry about that senior moment.

You can get flourescent lights for your engine room at Home Depot or Lowe's for about $15.  Get the covered double tube model.  I replaced existing uncovered single tube ones so the wiring was there.  They are mounted above the engines on the saloon floor support by the valve cover (aisle deck side).

The engine room insulation black dropings can be eliminated be sealing all the ceiling edges with aluminum (chrome-like) tape.  I got mine at Home Depot.  The first rolls were alot thicker than the last rolls (the same model number) and a lot easier to use.  It takes awhile and a few bruises in the tight spots, but stops the problem and looks great.  Do it BEFORE you paint your engines and/or engine room.  Overlap the tape on the insulation and onto the wood frames.  I found it best to cut the tape in strips rather than try to go all around the frame in one piece.  You can also use the tape for any tears on the wall insulation....the rear of the engines, front generator room, etc.

Amen to checking the iron risers.  I replaced mine with stainless steel ones.  Will tell that ugly story at another time and preach to all others to replace them if that have not been done yet.

Dave   "Good Spirits"



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Pete37
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Posted: February 17 2007 at 11:16 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi John & Dave,

I haven't been doing anything on my boat lately since Arlene and I chickened out and headed for FL the 1st of Feb.  But the cold weather has followed us south.  It was 38 degrees in Palm beach this morning and is expected to go only up to 66 this afternoon.  It is cutting into Arlene's beach time very seriously.

I went to the Miami Boat show yesterday and picked up a lot of literature as usual.  When I got back to the hotel room I reviewed and threw out about half of it.  There wasn't much new to report from the show.  GPS software continues to get more exotic and expensive and there were a lot of large screen GPSs on display.  All of it was out of my price range.

Beautiful polished stainless steel anchors of exotic types seem to be the rage.  But at $3,000 to $6,000 they are also out of my price range.  And if I had a beautiful anchor like that I would never drop it because it would get all scratched up.  I guess I'll just continue to rely on my mundane looking but reliable galvanized steel anchor.

I'm planning on replacing my heads this summer so I was interested the new heads that were shown.  Prices for the low cost heads seem to run a little under $500 and for the high cost heads about $800 to $1,000.  The difference seems to be mainly in appearance rather than function.  All the heads have options for fresh water input or a raw water pump.  The pump versions cost $100-$150 more.

I wonder whether anyone out there, besides me, is still using the original Galley Maid heads.  Apparently Galley Maid is still making them and they now have a fresh water option.  But a new Galley Maid pump unit costs nearly $1,000.  Rebuilt units cost about $600 if you have a trade-in.

Drinking water costs $3 per bottle and a coke about $5 at the show.  A pretzel costs $4.  Mixed drinks are a bargain at only $8.Confused  For those of you in the frozen north who couldn't make the Miami Show be consoled that you didn't miss much unless you are looking for a mega yacht.

Pete37



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Ken27
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Posted: February 19 2007 at 17:08 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

On January 13th, I promised some pictures of the engines I recently had painted if only I could figure out how to post them. Thanks to Pete for his help!

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Fantasy
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Posted: February 19 2007 at 17:24 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

They look super Ken!  Does your painter travel?

John

PS  Did the cost come in where you figured it would?



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Ken27
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Posted: February 20 2007 at 13:33 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Hi Everyone'

I finally got the pictures posted!  I had to get help from Generation X.

Pardon my typing.  I had hand surgery Mon. and can only type with one finger.

The bill for pressure washing the engine & gen rooms and bilges, masking the engines, and painting with an airless sprayer was $804.49.  I think he did a great job!  We're waiting for some warmer weather to finish painting the compartments.  They will be easier and shouldn't cost much.

The fellow that did it is a trained Detroit Diesel mechanic who is now off on his own.  He can do just about anything including electronics, electrical, etc, etc.  The only thing I've found he won't/can't do is gelcoat work.  He's actually done complete rebuilds on a number of Detroits in my area.  It's great having such a talented handyman available.  Also, because he's independent, his labor rate is much lower than the local yards.  (I hope he doesn't see this, he'd probably  raise his rate.)

I'll write more later after I get out of this cast and update everyone on our project.

Ken

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Pete37
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Posted: February 20 2007 at 15:51 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken,

Fantastic paint job.  Where should I send the airline tickets to have him come and do my engines?

Pete37

PS:  Is it my imagination or is this site becoming slightly sluggish?



Edited by Pete37 on February 20 2007 at 15:54


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Ken27
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Posted: February 20 2007 at 16:26 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Hi Pete,

I suspect he might be willing to travel, but I'm not sharing until our project is finished.  Sorry my friend.

Ken

P.S.  I will ask him if he's willing to travel if you're serious.



Edited by Ken27 on February 20 2007 at 16:44
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David Ross
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Posted: February 20 2007 at 20:25 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Pete:

I tried several times to post the photos, but keep getting a message that the file is too big.  I resized the photos for email, and that only made it worse.  Any suggestions? 

Dave  "Good Spirits"

 



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Ken27
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Posted: February 21 2007 at 11:26 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Hi Dave,

I tried to post my engine pictures but because I'm a computer rookie, I had to get help.  I was disappointed though, how their quality deteriorated when they were reduced.  I lost a lot of clarity and detail.

Ken

We followed Pete's instructions and it worked to reduce and then post them.



Edited by Ken27 on February 21 2007 at 11:29
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Pete37
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Posted: February 23 2007 at 21:17 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave and Ken,

The maximum size picture you can post is only 100K and it has to be in .jpg format.  That's kind of disappointing but it's the limitation set by Boat US and we have to live with it.  You will have to use a photo editor to reduce the size of the file.  Of course you can email a friend a larger photo if you want.

Dave, are you familiar with how to size and orient photos using the handles?  Did you see the instructions I gave Ken?

Ken, yes I'm a little disappointed with the resolution too but it's all this forum allows.  Perhaps at some time in the future we can set up our own forum and allow larger pictures.  Cropping your pictures down to only the major subject will help a lot though.  Are you familiar enough with posting pictures now to do it on your own?

Pete37



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David Ross
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Posted: February 25 2007 at 16:59 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Dear Pete:  I am again trying to post a photo.  I could resize the photo of my boat, but not the engine photos as they wouldn't show the work/painting done if I crop them.  Here goes.

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Pete37
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Posted: February 27 2007 at 12:05 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave,

The picture looks all right except that you may have stretched it horizontally by grabbing one of the side handles. Also, make a little extra space by inserting a few blank lines before you insert the photo.  You can also insert the blank lines after inserting the picture.  

That's a nice looking boat but a rather gloomy picture.  You can spice it up by increasing the brightness, contrast and color saturation.  Keep experimenting and you will get the feel of inserting pictures.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on February 27 2007 at 12:28


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Ken27
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Posted: February 27 2007 at 15:05 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Pete,

I hope you didn't take my comments the wrong way.  I didn't want to sound critical of the forum or any of it's characteristics.  I find the forum very informative, thorough, and user friendly.  It is only my lack of computer skills that has been a challenge for me.  I'm still trying to get together with my daughter-in-law to get a lesson on posting pictures, then I'll do more on my part to share with everyone on the forum.  She said your instructions were great and  was able to follow them easily.

Thanks,

Ken

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Pete37
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Posted: March 01 2007 at 10:57 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken,

I didn't take your comments the wrong way.  In my reply I just wanted to explain that 100K is a limit imposed by the site.  They have to set some limit or people would upload enormous pictures.  And even in today's computer world storage space is a limitation.  Glad to hear you have found someone to help you learn the ropes.  After you have learned how to do it posting pictures will be routine.   Keep up the good work.  Your pictures are very interesting.

Pete37



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Ken27
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Posted: March 15 2007 at 13:18 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Hi everyone,

I need your help and advice.  Both me and my friend in my marina who has the same boat, '85 Connie, had ordered radar arches from a supplier on the west coast.  We each sent him a $1500 deposit.  Through the winter he's been telling us all the right things and asking all the right questions.  Now he won't respond to  e-mails or return phone calls.  I think we've been taken to the cleaners for $3000 and worse, wasted the winter waiting for these arches that probably will never materialize.

Do any of you have a source for preferably two origninal arches or a couple repros of original?  My project is nearing completion, but without an arch, it will feel like only 50% finished.

If you do have some ideas, I'd love to hear them.  We're taking our grandkids to Disney World all next week, so if you respond and I don't get back to you soon, that's why.  I will have very limited access to a computer until I get back.  We're leaving 3/19 and return 3/24.

Ken

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Pete37
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Posted: March 15 2007 at 17:41 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken,

Very sorry to hear of your misfortune.  I don't have any specific company that makes fiberglass radar arches but I did a quick web search and found about 30 firms which may be capable of making the arch.  If you do a search you would probably get the same results.

The trick to getting the arch made acccurately and cheaply is finding something to be used as the master mold.  Fiberglass makers can make just about anything provided they have a mold as a starting point.

I don't know of anyone who has a spare original radar arch but perhaps you could get one on a loaner basis.  The original mold (which is long gone by now) was probably made of wood and if you are good with wood you could make your own mold and then find someone to duplicate it in fiberglass.

There are plenty of people who can make your arch.  The problem is finding someone who will make it at a reasonable price.  If you could find several other owners who want an arch that would get the price down.

There are also a whole bunch of people who could make you a pipewelded arch but I doubt you would want one.  They don't look like the original arches.  But I've seen a few Connies on the brokers pages with retrofit pipewelder arches.  They're not that bad.

Hope you have a good time in Disney World.  My wife and I toured Disney World last month.  It's expensive but a lot of fun.  I took my laptop on our trip and was able to get on the web fairly frequently.  Even if you don't take a computer there are computer coffee bars which will provide a computer for you.  But in general and especially if you have grandkids with you, you will be too busy on the trip to do much web surfing.

Keep trying to find the guy who was going to make the arches.  He may have the job partly done.  If you know his name you could probably track him down on one of the "People Finder" web sites.

It's Dewinterization Day (March 15th) here in MD and I started today by giving her a good bath.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on March 15 2007 at 17:52


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Ken27
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Posted: March 15 2007 at 19:48 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Pete,

Thanks for getting back so quickly and for the suggestions.  Believe me, I've tried all of the above.  I've talked to many fabricators, in fibersglass, pipewelders, and those that fab out of aluminum tubing and then skin it with sheet alum, radius the corners and edges, and then paint to match the gel coat. They all say basically the same thing.  They need a pattern, drawing, specs or whatever, none of which I have.  I've talked to a fabricator in southern Florida that has the specs and drawings for the original CC arch, but they won't build it for me because they're too booked building for one of the manufacturers of a high end boat, nor will they share the drawings with me, even for a price.  Like I said, I've taken this in every direction I can think of.  That's why I sent out this cry for help from you folks.  There's got to be an arch or mold or something out there somewhere.  I just need to find it so I can get one of these fabricators to make these two arches for us.

Thanks again,

Ken

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