] ]

 
] ] ]
]
Welcome Guest ]
]
] ]

] ] ]
]
Site Navigation ]
]
] ]

] ] ]
]
Top 10 Recent Posts ]
View Last Post Murray Chris Craft Constellations
Pages 1 2 3 4 ... 149 » 150
Last Post By: Capt Jim
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: August 29 2014 at: 11:06

View Last Post 1991 Four Winns 365
Last Post By: Blue Moon 138
Forum: Four Winns

Posted: July 16 2014 at: 17:35

View Last Post Seat Cushions
Last Post By: Michael Acord
Forum: Sea Fox

Posted: June 06 2014 at: 16:02

View Last Post Sail cleanin’ and hull patchin’
Last Post By: dad21dawg
Forum: Hunter

Posted: May 29 2014 at: 16:01

View Last Post 1983 25’ Chris Craft Catalina
Last Post By: fred6963
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: May 27 2014 at: 14:26

View Last Post 1963 Constellation 42
Last Post By: spellbound
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: May 06 2014 at: 08:31

View Last Post Viking Yachts Links
Last Post By: Viking44
Forum: Viking Yacht

Posted: April 17 2014 at: 06:32

View Last Post Amerosport 320
Last Post By: Jerry737
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: April 13 2014 at: 16:00

View Last Post Any Uniflite Owners near Berkeley CA???
Last Post By: concordian
Forum: Uniflite

Posted: March 08 2014 at: 02:27

View Last Post Inverter
Last Post By: eshover
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: February 03 2014 at: 11:32

]
] ]
   
Chris Craft
 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums>>Chris Craft
Subject Topic: Murray Chris Craft Constellations Post ReplyPost New Topic
150 Pages « 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 »
] ] ]
]
Author
Message Prev Topic | Next Topic 
David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: June 28 2013 at 11:41 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Pete,

I heard estimates around our marina recently for fuel polishing and they were higher than that.... $950 to $1250 plus filters used. Guess it depends how many gallons are envolved and and maybe the number of tanks.

When I first bought our boat (1998) I had two estimates on fuel polishing of $650 and $1250??!!. Instead I installed a DeBug (ESP) magnetic system for each engine for around the lower polishing quote. Each time I replaced the Racor fuel filters they were cleaner than the last. Of course they only work if you run the boat. You can get the additional pump system to polish the fuel. I choose the DeBug system over AlgaeX. I also use the ESP PRO 1 fuel additive everytime I get fuel. I might have posted something about the DeBug system a long time ago. I heard a lot of talk that the magnetic systems are total bogus but it worked for me and others I know.

Heading to the boat today for a week or so. Hope these constant rain storms clear up for the July 4th activities.

  



__________________
DAVE
GOOD SPIRITS
500 CONSTELLATION (1987)
Back to Top Printable version View David Ross's Profile Search for other posts by David Ross
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: June 28 2013 at 12:43 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave,

Subject: Fuel Polishing

I'm hoping I can get around this bad fuel problen by just changing filters.  To start with I'll add some biocide to both tanks. At 1400 rpm the boat burns about 7 gph per engine.  But about 80% of the fuel a 6V92 uses is used for cooling the engine.  So something like 35 gph per engine is pumped through the Racor.  Three hours of running should process most of the 100 gallons of fuel remaining in the tank.  Of course its' pumped back into the tank and mixes with the old fuel which complicates the process somewhat but in five or ten hours the fuel should be pretty clean.

My trips are usually about two hours using 28 gallons. So after each trip I'll check the Racors and replace them if necessary.  Five trips in this mode would use 10 filters and 140 gallons.  At that point I'd be refilling the tank with new, clean fuel anyway so the problem would be over.  But I really doubt that a filter would get plugged up after only two hours so I probably won't have to change filters after each trip.  Once the new fuel is in I'll add another dose of biocide for good measure.

Ten filters @$20 per filter is $200 which is a hell of lot less than $770.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on June 30 2013 at 12:11


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: July 31 2013 at 09:48 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Testing, 1, 2, 3

__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Capt.Wayne
"Seaman"




Joined: October 31 2007
Posts: 63
Posted: July 31 2013 at 13:37 | IP Logged Quote Capt.Wayne

Hi Pete,

I'm in Maine, the boat is in Florida. I did get my water tanks in before I left, put in two 55 gal poly tanks in tandem, no leaks and holding, what fun!!


__________________
Non-Marrital Asset
460 Connie
Isle of Capri, FL
Back to Top Printable version View Capt.Wayne's Profile Search for other posts by Capt.Wayne
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: July 31 2013 at 15:45 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Congratulations Capt. Wayne on your F/W tank installation! I
see you went with two tanks vs three. No matter, much better
to replace the tanks and install in the factory location, in my
opinion. I finally got around to removing the old inspection
plates that leaked like a sieve and re-sealed with plastic house
trim and lots of screws and 5200! No leaks. Very happy.

Emory

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Capt.Wayne
"Seaman"




Joined: October 31 2007
Posts: 63
Posted: July 31 2013 at 16:08 | IP Logged Quote Capt.Wayne

Emory,

Thanks to you the job of replacing the water tank was a lot easier. With all the documentation you provided, and the experiences you had doing the job,  made it look like a walk in the park. Mine were installed from the aft end under the fuel tanks so it was not exactly the same, but I've got 110 gallons of fresh water when need. Should be plenty. 5200 works every time

Capt. Wayne


__________________
Non-Marrital Asset
460 Connie
Isle of Capri, FL
Back to Top Printable version View Capt.Wayne's Profile Search for other posts by Capt.Wayne
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: September 30 2013 at 09:16 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Rumors of my demise are greatly exaggerated!  I think that phrase has already been used by Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain).  But one could say that this forum is nearly dead.  It's been two months since the last post.

But maybe that's because I haven't been posting.  It takes someone posting to get the forum working. Sort of like priming the pump. I'm going to try to make at least one post per day and see what happens.

I haven't decided what today's post will be but the Annapolis Boat Show starts Thursday and that should give some ideas.  And I've had numerous equipment breakdowns in the last two months that I haven't mentioned.

Pete37 



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: September 30 2013 at 09:17 | IP Logged Quote Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 07 2013 at 10:38


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Capt.Wayne
"Seaman"




Joined: October 31 2007
Posts: 63
Posted: September 30 2013 at 12:55 | IP Logged Quote Capt.Wayne

Hi Pete,
I've not returned to port yet, I'm sure there will be plenty to do when I get there. One thing will be to change out my AC pump, it seems to develop pinhole leaks about every three years, I can get an extra year out of it if I cover the leak with JB Weld. The manufacturer says it's from back pressure (brass pump) Had any problems with yours?


__________________
Non-Marrital Asset
460 Connie
Isle of Capri, FL
Back to Top Printable version View Capt.Wayne's Profile Search for other posts by Capt.Wayne
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 04 2013 at 11:17 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All

Subject: Just Testing

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Capt.Wayne
"Seaman"




Joined: October 31 2007
Posts: 63
Posted: October 04 2013 at 13:00 | IP Logged Quote Capt.Wayne

Pete,

Check my last post.

Capt Wayne


__________________
Non-Marrital Asset
460 Connie
Isle of Capri, FL
Back to Top Printable version View Capt.Wayne's Profile Search for other posts by Capt.Wayne
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 05 2013 at 11:21 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Wayne,

Subject: Air Conditioner Pump

I don't have much info on the AC pump other than that it's a Marine Aire P100 Sea Water Pump.  You  can get a replacement from DEPCO but it's $612 plus the cost of the motor.  So I doubt you would want to buy a new pump. But you can probably re-use the motor. 

I checked with Dometic (which makes Marine Aire products) and they still make the P100 pump.  I called them (954-973-2477) but they were closed on Saturday.  Don't know what they charge but I doubt it's less than DEPCO.   

Of course you may have a different type of pump.  Not all Connies are alike.  Never had any problems with my pump other than that it's noisy.  If you can get 3 years out of a JB Weld patch that's probably the best way to solve the problem.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 05 2013 at 11:42


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Capt.Wayne
"Seaman"




Joined: October 31 2007
Posts: 63
Posted: October 05 2013 at 16:42 | IP Logged Quote Capt.Wayne

Thanks Pete,

Your pump is different than the one I have, not sure why, but you haven't had any trouble other than noise. Mine is a Oberdorfer Bronze Centrifugal Pump 70 GPH with 1/2 HP #109MB-J19 and the Bronze wears away with the salt water causing the punp to have pinhole leaks. I can buy the pump and motor for $753 from King pumps, but I may have the wrong pump for this Marine Air system, which is four a/c units and one pump. There must have been a change from the original on my boat. Anyone else have a different pump?


__________________
Non-Marrital Asset
460 Connie
Isle of Capri, FL
Back to Top Printable version View Capt.Wayne's Profile Search for other posts by Capt.Wayne
 
Pats2nd Connie
"Deckhand"




Joined: June 28 2013
Posts: 157
Posted: October 06 2013 at 09:17 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

I believe mine is a Jabsco. Getting ready for the long haul from
Nashville to ft. Myers.   
Does anyone know the part number for detroit 6v92ti thermostats and
gaskets?

__________________
Patrick hoffman
Back to Top Printable version View Pats2nd Connie's Profile Search for other posts by Pats2nd Connie
 
Pats2nd Connie
"Deckhand"




Joined: June 28 2013
Posts: 157
Posted: October 06 2013 at 10:28 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

How can I access the info on water tank replacement?

__________________
Patrick hoffman
Back to Top Printable version View Pats2nd Connie's Profile Search for other posts by Pats2nd Connie
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: October 06 2013 at 11:15 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Pat - I am the one who installed a new water tank(s) in my
Connie. Pete has this and many, many other items on a
thumb drive he is willing to sell to folks for the cost of the
drive and postage (I think). I'm sure he'll see this and get
back to you. Send me an email at
easternmarineservices@gmail.com and I'll try to find my
original CD or files and send them to you. There is a
follow-up to the installation that needs to be discussed with
you if you are installing a new tank system.

Best regards,
Capt. G. Emory Shover
Eastern Marine Services, LLC
Survey - Delivery
www.easternmarineservices.com


__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: October 06 2013 at 11:21 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Pat - if your thermostats are 160 degrees I think the part
number is: 23503827      the 170 degree is: 5104832 (this may
be a Muncie number.

Emory

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pats2nd Connie
"Deckhand"




Joined: June 28 2013
Posts: 157
Posted: October 06 2013 at 13:02 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

Thanks for the response Emory. I have flushed the systems and
changed hoses and zincs. Thermostat housing were unco-operative in
opening. Hence I let them ride for awhile till am am sure I can remove
them without breakage. Prious owner must have used some sort of
sealant.
I will probably not replace water tanks till I settle in Florida.   However
I would like to start preparing for it.

__________________
Patrick hoffman
Back to Top Printable version View Pats2nd Connie's Profile Search for other posts by Pats2nd Connie
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: October 06 2013 at 13:41 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Pat,
These thermostats are resistant to removal. Remove the
housing with the thermostat and soak with some PB Blaster
for a while. Tap around the housing of the thermostats until
they start to come loose from the housing. The owner may
not have used a sealant, they just seal tightly with their own
gasket. I would NEVER use a sealant on thermostats!



__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pats2nd Connie
"Deckhand"




Joined: June 28 2013
Posts: 157
Posted: October 06 2013 at 14:11 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

Emory , I removed the four bolts but cannot open housing. Tried
tapping at seam with a chisel but no luck. I am replacing these so I can
establish a maintenance record. Is this one of those things that fit
under the category of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"?

__________________
Patrick hoffman
Back to Top Printable version View Pats2nd Connie's Profile Search for other posts by Pats2nd Connie
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: October 06 2013 at 14:31 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Pat - I understand now. You are having an issue opening
the thermostat housing. And yes, there is always a
possibility the previous owner used some type of sealant.
However, these are also difficult to "pop loose" even
without sealant on them. Sometimes you have to give
them a good whack with at ballpeen hammer to get them
to pop loose.

But to go to your other question; if you boat is not running
hot and the temps are correct at the gauge (checked with
an IR gun), why change them? Keep the new ones on
hand for installation when there appears to be a thermostat
issue.

If you do decide to change them, clean the surfaces of the
housing completely! If you don't, they will develop a small
leak. And you don't want that.

Are you engines J&T's or Covingtons? What year is your
Connie? Just curious.

Emory

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pats2nd Connie
"Deckhand"




Joined: June 28 2013
Posts: 157
Posted: October 06 2013 at 20:43 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

Thanks Emory, that's pretty much my plan. I will have to figure out
which temp mine is. They are J&T's in a 1986.
I now have sent my genny injectors and injector pump to be re-built as
I am still getting fuel in the engine oil. I don't want to make a 1200
mile trip without it .

__________________
Patrick hoffman
Back to Top Printable version View Pats2nd Connie's Profile Search for other posts by Pats2nd Connie
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 07 2013 at 11:17 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Annapolis Boat Show

I went to the Annapolis Boat Show last weekend (the Powerboat Show on the 3rd-6th) and took my camera to record any new stuff for sale.  But I didn't find any new stuff so I didn't take any pictures. I didn't even collect much literature. There were about the same number of booths as last year but nothing new for sale.

There were a lot of small boats but very few large (over 40') boats.  This was about my 30th Annapolis Boat show.  Don't think I'll bother with it next year.



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 07 2013 at 11:35 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Pat,

Subject: Thermostats

The Detroit Service Manual says engines built in 1986 and before use 160 degree thermostats while those built afterward use 170 or 180 degree thermostats.  Only special purpose engines use the 180 degree thermostats so yours are probably 160F but could be 170F. 

Way back in 2000 I checked with J&T and they said the 170 degree thermostats were used on their engines.  They gave a Part# 2350-3826.  But I've never changed my thermostats and probably wont unless they begin to act erratically.

I also noticed in the Service Manual (Section 5.2) that special tools (Installer J 8550 and Driver Handle 7079-2) should be used for thermostat installation but it says nothing about special tools for removal.  Perhaps a previous owner didn't use the proper installation tools and that is what is making the removal difficult.

The 160F thermostats should keep your engines in the 160F to 185F range but I found that with the 170F thermostats on my 1987 engines anything over 2000 rpm sometimes made them ran hotter.  At 1800 rpm typical temps were around 185F.  The operational specs give 160F to 185F as acceptable for pre-1987 engines and 170F to 195F for 1987 and later engines.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 07 2013 at 12:02


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pats2nd Connie
"Deckhand"




Joined: June 28 2013
Posts: 157
Posted: October 07 2013 at 12:27 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

Thanks Pete, I guess I will get at least one to keep in the parts box.
I will do my level best to keep this forum alive.LOL. It helps knowing
that there are sone experienced captains out there willing to share
some knowledge.

__________________
Patrick hoffman
Back to Top Printable version View Pats2nd Connie's Profile Search for other posts by Pats2nd Connie
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 08 2013 at 14:43 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Fuel Polishing, Etc.

The problems I had with sour fuel last July seem to be gone now.  I changed filters, ran the old fuel out as fast as I could and then refilled the tanks.  I then ran the fuel out again and changed the filters again.  The fuel and filters seem to be clean now and the engines are running fine.

I'll probably run through most of what's left in the tanks now before the end of October and refill the tanks once more before winterizing.  I'll also change the filters again one last time for 2013.  In November it's time for winterizing again.  I hate to see it come but that's life.

There are plenty of projects which need to be done and November and December are good months to do them.  It's too cold to go cruising but I can keep the boat warm enough at the dock to do a lot of work in relatively comfortable conditions.

January and February are too cold to do much on the boat even at the dock.  I just go down and check it regularly.  Then March arrives and I begin dewinterizing.  This lasts until the end of April and then in May I begin cruising again.

Hope you guys have a good winter.  I'm going to try to revitalize this web site or find another site.  So far I've investigated two other boating forums but neither seems to be very satisfactory.

I ran through an analysis of the costs of taking the boat to Florida and livng on it until spring when I'd make the trip back up to Maryland.  The answer came out as about $17,000 round trip for fuel, dockage, etc.  Think, I'll stay in Maryland this winter.

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 13 2013 at 17:02 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: New Forum

I've been working with Boat US to try to keep the old forum going but they are adament that all people posting on the forum must be Boat US members at a cost of about $24.  The money doesn't bother me since I'm already a member but to a newbie who just finds the forum while browsing the web, the $24 is a complete turn off.  Most of them don't even know who Boat US is.  I doubt we could ever build up a good forum on the Boat US site again.

You guys who are my age probably remember that West Marine was a spin off from Boat US and that the spin-off quickly became more successful than the parent.  I've been getting emails from Boat US that imply that they think the members of this forum are poor white trash that they would rather be rid of.  I don't think that that there's much point in pursuing this forum when that's their attidtude.

So I'm shifting my posts to the Chris Craft Catalina forum.  Capt Rick (moderator of that forum) will be glad to see you guys posting on his forum and has set up a separate section for Constellations.  The address is

http://www.chriscraftcatalinaclub.com/forumdisplay.php?45-Co nstellation

It's a new site with different features that will take getting used to but I haven't found it too difficult.  Looking forward to seeing you on the new forum but will check in on the old forum occasionally to see how things are going.  I'll be sending out a mailing to all Connie owners notifying them of the new forum in the near future.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 13 2013 at 17:43


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 13 2013 at 23:27 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Guys,

Look at this picture of world shale oil reserves:

A 2005 estimate set the total world resources of oil shale at 411 gigatons — equivalent to yield of 2.8 to 3.3 trillion barrels (450 to 520 billion cubic metres) of shale oil, with the largest reserves in the United States, which is thought to have 1.5–2.6 trillion barrels (240–410 billion cubic metres), though only a part of it is recoverable.[4][5][6][7] According to the 2010 World Energy Outlook by the International Energy Agency, the world oil shale resources may be equivalent of more than 5 trillion barrels (790 billion cubic metres) of oil in place of which more than 1 trillion barrels (160 billion cubic metres) may be technically recoverable.[1] For comparison, the world's proven conventional oil reserves are estimated to be 1.317 trillion barrels (209.4 billion cubic metres), as of 1 January 2007.[8] There are around 600 known oil shale deposits.[9]

That's a humongous amount of shale oil.  And surprise, Saudi Arabia doesn't have any!  Looks like the days of $1.00 diesel fuel may be back someday.  The question now is how long will it take to develop?

Perhaps Obama's windmills aren't such a good investment.

Pete37



Edited by Sonja Lowe on June 11 2014 at 11:21


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 14 2013 at 21:45 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Testing 1, 2, 3



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: October 18 2013 at 21:01 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Hi Pete,

Lately the engines have been turning over rather sluggishly, even on warm days. The helm parallel switch only adds a very slight increase in cranking power. The the four 8D batteries (about 2 1/2 years old) test out fine (voltage and cells). Starters are newer. Alll battery terminals, cables and system wires are clean and tight, including the engine room bulkhead rotorary selector and parallel wires. Upon further investigation the front two batteries are the house batteries but are connected parallel (??). One aft battery is conected to the port engine and the other is connected to the starboard engine. It appears it is set up so only one battery can be used to start an engine. That seems to be asking a lot from one battery to start a diesel. I wonder if somehow the batteries are connected improperly. I remember there was some confusion awhile back where a cable from the front starboard  battery went on one of the rear batteries (after there was an interuption while the terminals and cables were being cleaned).

Do you have a wiring diagram showing how the batteries should be conected and possibly a schematic for the starting system. How are your 4D batteries connected?

 



__________________
DAVE
GOOD SPIRITS
500 CONSTELLATION (1987)
Back to Top Printable version View David Ross's Profile Search for other posts by David Ross
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 20 2013 at 09:52 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave,

Subject: Sluggish Starting

The battery setup is shown in CC drawing 507301-0 “Engine Room & Legend”.  It should be part of the package of CC drawings which came with the boat.  The engine batteries are 12V 205AH 8Ds.  One is attached to each engine but there is a manual battery parallel switch in the engine room which allows them to be connected in parallel.  There is also a battery parallel solenoid which can be controlled by a switch on the lower console.  You should also have two 12V 205AH 8Ds connected in parallel for house service.

Normally only one battery is used to start an engine but in an emergency the parallel switches can be used to put both starting batteries in parallel for starting.

I have only one 12V 155AH 4D which is connected to the generator. That is the standard setup as shown by the drawing.

If your boat has been sitting for a while with the battery charger working the voltages on the console volt meters should be 13.9V.

Sometimes if the boat hasn’t been used for a week or two the engines start a little harder.  I attribute that to poor lubrication.  But once started they’ll start the engines very easily the next day.

Everything you have described seems to be normal.  Unfortunately the CC drawing is too large for me to copy.  If it’s real important, I could probably get a copy on one of Kinko’s large copying machines.  But that would have to wait until my next trip to Annapolis.

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: October 20 2013 at 12:49 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Pete, thanks for getting back to me. I was hoping you had a small printable wiring diagram before I get to the boat (also in case I don't have the CC drawing). I do have 13.9 reading at the volt meters. Good to hear what I described to you seems normal. I am surprised the house batteries are connected in parallel (seems overkill). I meant to type 8D (not 4D) when I asked you how your batteries are connected to each other. I want to make sure my connecting is correct. As mentioned, I was a little concerned about the front starboard house battery cable being connected to the wrong aft starting battery terminal.

I have some CC drawings on board and will check to see if I have the "Engine Room and Legend". Hopefully it will show simply how the batteries are interconnected. I had to leave the boat after the sluggish starting and have not been back. Will get aboard later next week. 



__________________
DAVE
GOOD SPIRITS
500 CONSTELLATION (1987)
Back to Top Printable version View David Ross's Profile Search for other posts by David Ross
 
David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: October 26 2013 at 08:03 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Hi Pete, I did have the engine room drawing on board. All connections were correct and as you described. Turns out a starting battery was weak and the cranking power was low. Jumped from another battery and started right up. I will replace it next week. Thanks for your input.



__________________
DAVE
GOOD SPIRITS
500 CONSTELLATION (1987)
Back to Top Printable version View David Ross's Profile Search for other posts by David Ross
 
Pats2nd Connie
"Deckhand"




Joined: June 28 2013
Posts: 157
Posted: October 26 2013 at 08:59 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

Changing the subject here fella's.   we are heading south on the tenn-
Tom waterway. I am considering running on one engine while tying
up the shaft on the other engine. Any comment or advice?

__________________
Patrick hoffman
Back to Top Printable version View Pats2nd Connie's Profile Search for other posts by Pats2nd Connie
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 26 2013 at 11:40 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Pat,

Subject: Single Engine Running

I assume that you are planning to run on one engine to save fuel.  What rpms are you planning to run at?

I've considered the same idea but don't know how maneuverable the boat would be with only one engine running.  On the few occasions I've had to do that (because of engine breakdowns, etc.) they convinced me that it wouldn't be very maneuverable.

On most of the waterways that I have traveled it is sometimes necessary to make maneuvers very quickly (to avoid shoals and other boats).  Would you have time to crawl down in the bilge, untie a drive shaft and then scramble back up to the FB?  And of course you would need a good helmsman steering while you were doing it.

I would strongly suggest that you experiment with this mode of operation before committing to a long trip.  Let us know what you find out.

The subject of freewheeling the transmissions has come up numerous times and in general the conclusons were that the Twin Disc transmissions (if you have them) are fairly tolerant to such operation.   But I would be reluctant to recommend it for a long trip.  I'll have to check my records on that.

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 26 2013 at 11:50 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave,

Subject: Battery Swapping

Get someone to help you with the battery swap.  Those 8Ds are heavy and we aren't getting any younger.  It's cheaper to get a grunt to help you with the swap than to get a doctor to help you with a bad back.

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pats2nd Connie
"Deckhand"




Joined: June 28 2013
Posts: 157
Posted: October 26 2013 at 12:47 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

I am thinking the same thing Pete. Might be better for an open water
trial. A skipper on a voyager said he was running one at 1200 rpm
getting 2 miles a gallon. I am getting 1 mile per at 1100 on both
averaging 8 mph.

__________________
Patrick hoffman
Back to Top Printable version View Pats2nd Connie's Profile Search for other posts by Pats2nd Connie
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 26 2013 at 13:43 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Pat,

Subject: Freewheeling

Running on both engines at 1100 or 1200 rpm. won't get your engines up to recommended operating temperature and may damage your engines.  We've had extended discussions on that.

I checked on the possibility of freewheeling one engine.  It took me a while because the answer was in a TwinDisc  Operations manual which was in PDF format and password protected.  However, I managed to copy the critical part (Section 3.7 Windmilling/Backdriving and Towing).  The manual is dated "Rev 5, Feb 2008".  The older paper manual I have (Service Manual SM149, November, 1978) does not have a section on windmilling.  BTW "Windmilling and Backdriving" are synonyms for "freewheeling".

TwinDisc recommends that you start and operate the transmission for five minurtes in neutral at normal fluid pressures.  Shut down the engine (in neutral) and repeat the five minute run once every 8 hours.  Maintain normal oil levels as shown by the dipstick.  So apparently TwinDisc is comfortable with freewheeling as long as you make sure the transmission is properly lubricated.

This procedure is approved for all Twin Disc transmissions except the MG5170, MG5200, MG5300, MG5600 and all MG6000 series.  Most Connies were equipped with MG-509 transmissions so your transmissions are probably included.

This should give you the economy of single engine operation with the ability to quickly convert to twin engine operation as necessary. Locking the shaft against rotation is also acceptable but not necessary.  Locking the shaft of course greatly increases the drag (thereby increasing fuel consumption) and also eliminates the ability to quicly shift to two engine operation.

A five minute run every 8 hours shouldn't be a major operational problem on your trip.

Anyway, that's the gospel according to Twin Disc.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on October 26 2013 at 13:48


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: October 26 2013 at 16:04 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Pat,

Subject:  Connie Low Rpm Mileage

Your claim of 8 knots at 1100 rpm (both engines) and 1 nmpg seems right on.  Back in 2006 I calibrated my engines and got 8.5 knots at 1100 rpm with a mileage of about 1.1 nmpg.  Pretty good agreement considering that these are two different boats under conditions that may not be exactly the same.

Can't tell about the other guys claim of 2 nmpg @ 1200 rpm on one engine.  You didn't give any data on the boat, size of engine, etc.  But for a Connie that would be too good to be true.  He would have to be going about 6 knots for that to be possible.  And at that low a loading his engines wouldn't last very long.

The nmpg depends mainly on the weight of the boat and its speed.  The number of engines doesn't even factor into the equations. A single engine boat is not necessarily any more efficient than one with ten enignes.

Pete37

 



Edited by Pete37 on October 26 2013 at 16:07


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pats2nd Connie
"Deckhand"




Joined: June 28 2013
Posts: 157
Posted: October 26 2013 at 19:27 | IP Logged Quote Pats2nd Connie

I am thinking the same thing Pete. Might be better for an open water
trial. A skipper on a voyager said he was running one at 1200 rpm
getting 2 miles a gallon. I am getting 1 mile per at 1100 on both
averaging 8 mph.

__________________
Patrick hoffman
Back to Top Printable version View Pats2nd Connie's Profile Search for other posts by Pats2nd Connie
 
]
] ]
150 Pages « 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 »

  Post ReplyPost New Topic

] ] ]
]
  ]
Printable version Printable version
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
]
] ]

] ] ]
]
©2014, Boat Owners Association of The United States. All Rights Reserved.
This page was generated in 1.5469 seconds.
]
] ]