] ]

 
] ] ]
]
Welcome Guest ]
]
] ]

] ] ]
]
Site Navigation ]
]
] ]

] ] ]
]
Top 10 Recent Posts ]
View Last Post Murray Chris Craft Constellations
Pages 1 2 3 4 ... 149 » 150
Last Post By: Capt Jim
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: August 29 2014 at: 11:06

View Last Post 1991 Four Winns 365
Last Post By: Blue Moon 138
Forum: Four Winns

Posted: July 16 2014 at: 17:35

View Last Post Seat Cushions
Last Post By: Michael Acord
Forum: Sea Fox

Posted: June 06 2014 at: 16:02

View Last Post Sail cleanin’ and hull patchin’
Last Post By: dad21dawg
Forum: Hunter

Posted: May 29 2014 at: 16:01

View Last Post 1983 25’ Chris Craft Catalina
Last Post By: fred6963
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: May 27 2014 at: 14:26

View Last Post 1963 Constellation 42
Last Post By: spellbound
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: May 06 2014 at: 08:31

View Last Post Viking Yachts Links
Last Post By: Viking44
Forum: Viking Yacht

Posted: April 17 2014 at: 06:32

View Last Post Amerosport 320
Last Post By: Jerry737
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: April 13 2014 at: 16:00

View Last Post Any Uniflite Owners near Berkeley CA???
Last Post By: concordian
Forum: Uniflite

Posted: March 08 2014 at: 02:27

View Last Post Inverter
Last Post By: eshover
Forum: Chris Craft

Posted: February 03 2014 at: 11:32

]
] ]
   
Chris Craft
 BoatUS Boat Groups/Manufacturer Forums>>Chris Craft
Subject Topic: Murray Chris Craft Constellations Post ReplyPost New Topic
150 Pages « 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 »
] ] ]
]
Author
Message Prev Topic | Next Topic 
Bennett
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 121
Posted: August 03 2011 at 17:04 | IP Logged Quote Bennett

Emory,

I'm sorry about your engine problems. I guess the good
news is that the engines can be rebuilt in-frame and you
will end up with a reliable engine that should out live us!

I would assume that Tom Hug knows exactly the clearance
needed to pull the transmission, but looking at Pete's
picture of the prop to rudder, it looks like you could get 4
or 5 inches of shaft movement. Furthermore, once the
transmission is decoupled, you will have some wiggle room
to possibly offset the transmission shaft from the prop shaft
to allow further clearance for separation.

Because the parts a so heavy, I always imagined that when
my turn comes to rebuild my engines, that I would build a
gantry crane - with the legs either supported on the
stringers or outside on the gunwales (with the beam
spanning through the windows).

Please let us know how it progresses and the steps used to
accomplish the work. Photos would also be great.

Good luck,
Bennett

__________________
Christine 1986 Chris Craft 500
Back to Top Printable version View Bennett's Profile Search for other posts by Bennett
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 03 2011 at 18:27 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject:  Engine Alarm Systems

I’m very sorry to hear of Emory’s engine problems.  He’s had more than his share of engine problems.  But perhaps some good can come from it.  Many of us have engine alarms that warn us of overheated engines and engines that loose oil pressure.  They came with a lot of the Connies as original equipment but weren’t standard and had to be added as extra cost options. Apparently, Emory’s Connie wasn’t equipped with the alarms and he didn’t detect the engine overheating until after the damage was done.

All of our Connies are getting older and more prone to overheating and loss of oil pressure.  In view of Emory’s experience those of us with Connies which do not have engine alarm systems may want to add them.  The basic elements of the engine alarms system are contained in the package shown below: 

It’s made by Cole Hersee and sells for about $35. There are probably other manufacturers with similar systems. It contains an overheat sensor and an oil pressure sensor which are mounted to the engine and wired to the alarm detector.  The alarm detector trips relays which activate alarm lights and bells on the engine instrument consoles.  The package contains the two sensors and the detector electronic module.  In addition to the package you will need two buzzers and two warning lights per engine.  Hooking it up isn’t difficult but will take some work.

My estimate is that with the buzzers and lights the cost would be about $120 plus three hours of work per engine.  This is a bit of cost and trouble but it protects you from engine damage which could cost as much as $20,000 and put your Connie out of service for a season; pretty good insurance.

I hope, for Emory’s sake, that my estimate is wrong but figures of $3000-$3500 per hole for a major engine overhaul keep coming up every time we discuss overhauls.

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 03 2011 at 18:42 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Pete - correction. I do have the warning buzzers and
lights. However, the buzzers are at the lower station and I
was operating from the fly bridge. One of a few things
happened;
a) I did not hear the buzzer sounding
b) I did not see the light on the FB
c) The light does not work on the FB
d) No alarm occurred.

I know the buzzers and lights are operative at the lower
station for the light up and sound when the ignition key is
activated and they go out/stop sounding when the engine is
started. But that only verifies the oil pressure is present.

I will further investigate this issue. I have installed exhaust
alarms but that was not the issue here.

The engine heads are removed and I have agreed to scrap
any and all surfaces which require gaskets in order to save
a little (damned little) money.

IT IS WHAT IT IS.

Bennett makes a good point. I trust Tom Hug to do this job
correctly. I will have a well overhauled engine which will
no longer spray oil out. I should have faith in the engine
and finally enjoy my boat as I always wished to. This
engine was rebuilt prior to my buying it and there were
issues (toward the end) between the builder and the owner.
I have had nothing but issues with this engine. The
starboard engine has 1500 hours and is going strong.
(Shhhhhhh.....I don't want to say that too loudly.)

Will keep folks posted as I go along. Unfortunately for me,
I will now have a fiberglass repair bill to pay as well. I
think Shirl and I will be grilling hot dogs for a while!

Thanks for the comments one and all. I appreciate the
support.

Emory



__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 03 2011 at 20:16 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

It would be very strange to have only lights on the FB but no buzzer.  The lights and buzzer work in parallel so only one wire is needed per engine for the alarm.  If you go to all the trouble of running a wire to the FB for a light why chinch a couple bucks for the buzzer.  Doesn't make sense.

I suspect that neither the buzzer or light worked because the circuit is disconnected.  But buzzers are troublesome so some previous owner may have disconnected or removed it leaving only the light.  The wiring under the FB dash is a real rat's nest so it's even possible that the buzzer is still hiding there but is disconnected or non-functional.  The lights are pretty bright; it would be hard to miss them.  Therefore, I'm inclined to go for options a) and c);neither the buzzer or light worked. 

To check the temperature sender run the engines up to full speed.  When the temp reaches 193F the alarm should trigger.  Or yo can check it with a multimeter.

Maintaining and testing the alarms is a bit of trouble but not maintaining them is, as you have found out, a lot more trouble.  We know the engine overheated but apparently the alarm didn't work.  Therefore, it was out of order.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on August 03 2011 at 20:21


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Bennett
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 121
Posted: August 03 2011 at 20:27 | IP Logged Quote Bennett

Pete,

I would like to point out that, as discussed in a previous post
in regards to Emory's temperature indication, that if the
coolant was sufficiently low, i.e., the liquid coolant medium
was not in contact with the temperature sensor, the
temperature reading would be incorrect (likely reading too
low). So it is completely possible that Emory had no warning
or alarm.

Bennett

__________________
Christine 1986 Chris Craft 500
Back to Top Printable version View Bennett's Profile Search for other posts by Bennett
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 03 2011 at 21:29 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Bennett - I believe that your theory is correct. The buzzers
at the lower station are obnoxiously loud. My wife's
hearing is keen. When we noticed a loss of power I
immediately came off plane and went to the lower station.
No idiot lights, no buzzer no nuthin' but I, of course, took a
close look at the temperature gauges. Stbd was normal,
but the port was reading about 170 or under. This was odd
since I had been running on the pins for several minutes.

Once things had cooled off enough to open the coolant
tank, I discovered it was completely and totally empty.

And that, as they say, is that.

Emory

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 04 2011 at 00:20 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

I'm a little mystified.  Emory states that he had no FB buzzers. It's highly unlikely that if he was running at high speed he would hear the lower station buzzers. He further states that he doesn't know whether the warning lights on the FB work or not. And he doesn't know whether the temp alarms work at all or not.  In summary, he could not realistically expect the engine alarms to work.

Apparently he wasn't watching the temps very closely because temps don't go from normal to boiling hot back to below normal temps instantaneously.  You don't boil off 3 gallons of antifreeze in a flash.

So he was running blind with little knowledge of the engine temps.  He let his guard down and got caught.  I'm very sorry for him.  It's a disaster.  But the moral of all this is don't get careless with engine maintenance.  Mistreat your engines or their supporting instrumentation and they will bite you back in the ass (right next to the wallet).

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Fantasy
"Navigator"




Joined: November 30 2006
Posts: 324
Posted: August 04 2011 at 07:31 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

On my boat the audible alarm is a very loud bell located behind the lower station, there is no bell on the flybridge.  There is also an alarm silence toggle switch at the lower helm that I often turn off during start up.  If that is left off by mistake, there would be no audible warning. (The toggle switch also has a "test" position to check that the bell and lights are operable but this does not necessarily mean the alarm senders are working.)

Sometimes, high coolant temps don't register for the reasons that Bennett described and sometimes they are too late to avoid a meltdown.  That's why many engines come with pyrometers that measure exhaust gas temperatures which give an earlier and more reliable warning.

John



__________________
"Fantasy"
460 Chris Craft Constellation
Back to Top Printable version View Fantasy's Profile Search for other posts by Fantasy
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 04 2011 at 08:46 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Pete, et al,
No need to be mystified. First, I am not certain if buzzers
exist on the FB. When I return to the boat, I will crawl
under there and check for buzzers.   To repeat: the lights
at both the FB and the LS (lower station) are operative. If
I shut down my boat from the FB, the lights come on and
the buzzers sound at the LS.   I have pyros on the
exhausts just after the turbo, however, my raw water flow
was good. I agree with Pete, on plane at full load, it is
unlikely that I could hear the lower audible alarms. If
there are none, some cheap Radio Shack buzzers will take
care of that!

What has been found so far is at least two cylinders on the
right bank and one on the left bank are damaged. The O
rings melted and allowed my coolant to bypass the pistons
as well as draining through the air boxes. Tom stated that
the loss of coolant was quick and massive and not much
could have stopped what happened.

Once all is put back together, Tom is going to test my
senders to ensure proper operation but suspects they are
OK. They were fine last September when he tuned and
surveyed the engines.

Bennett's theory stills holds water for me (or is that
coolant?)

Right now, I am attempting to absorb all this $$$ and go on
with life. It (the engine) must be repaired and that's that.

The positive spin on this is this; what is done is done.
When finished I should have a new engine with a new rear
seat that will not spray oil all over the stringer, bilges, etc.
An engine that I will have faith in. An engine that will allow
me to finally clean and paint my engine room without fear
of the constant clean up of oil.

I appreciate everyone's input.

Emory

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 04 2011 at 08:57 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Just an opinion: I you have a good diesel mechanic you
trust and feel would tear down YOUR engine for a rebuild,
hold him close, give him a hug, send him a Christmas card
with a little sumpin' sumpin' inside!

During our discussions yesterday, Mr. Hug told me that
more and more mechanics are refusing to perform the two
cycle overhauls. He told me that if didn't know me (a cold
client in other words), it would be doubtful that he would
have taken on this job.

The two-cycle training is no longer there. They are a dying
breed (engines and mechanics). The young guns are only
being trained on the four-cycle digital animals. So the
mechanics that know these engines, and more importantly,
know what they are doing, are going to get farther and
fewer between. We can expect to see dramatic rises in
fees and parts (this is already occurring). Three to four
seasons ago, I could buy 692 kits for $300 each. Tom
quoted me $450 yesterday! When I purchased the oil and
filters two days ago, I noticed the parts man (a friend)
couldn't stop shaking his head when pulling up the prices.
He said that the prices are going up faster than the
computers can keep up. Not good for us.

If you have strong running, cool temp engines which don't
burn excessive oil and blow coolant out, give them a kiss
every night and promise them you'll take good care of
them!

Just a note to cheer everyone up.

Emory


__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 04 2011 at 09:05 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Pre-Flight Checkouts

On airplanes the consequences of engine failure are much more serious than on boats.  That's why pilots do pre-flight checkouts of their engines.

Way back in the 80s I was on a cruise in the Bahamas with friends in a 33' Chris Craft.  About the time we were at maximum distance from the States one engine developed a coolant leak.  The owner hadn't been changing his zincs regularly and the Sendure heat exchanger corroded out.  We disassembled the heat exchanger and plugged the leaks with wooden pegs.  That stopped most of the leaks but we still had to refill the cooling system daily.

We hobbled a couple hundred miles back to the states with this makeshift setup checking the coolant regularly.  On the last day out the owner decided he wouldn't bother to check the coolant level since we were only going about 10 miles.  After five miles the engine lost coolant and overheated.  It was totalled and had to be replaced.  Fortunately it was a gas engine (not a diesel) so the cost was much lower.

This incident convinced me to do pre-flight checks of the engines every time I use the boat.  Now I religously pop the caps of the heat exchangers and check the coolant levels before leaving.  I also check the oil level and take a glance at the battery condition on the console voltmeter.  This routine only takes a couple minutes but provides a considerable increase in the safety of the trip and I have never had loss of coolant problems.

Pete37

PS:  I also have a prayer stall at the end of the engine room and ask the almighty to bless my engines before each trip.  It helps.

 



Edited by Pete37 on August 04 2011 at 09:12


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 04 2011 at 09:27 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Once an engine reaches the zero coolant level destruction of the engine progresses very rapidly. That's why the engine alarms are so important.  I watch my engine temps very carefully.  They are the first indication of problems with the engines.  But it's easy to be distracted and miss the early signs.  The alarms usually wake you from your slumber before major engine damage is done.  Lights are good but the audibles are the real waker-upper.

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: August 04 2011 at 09:47 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Emory,

Sorry to hear of your engine problem. I've been following the updates. Sounds like the end result will give you a reliable engine, a cleaner engine room and most important a boat that you can ENJOY cruising again!!! Keep the faith....



__________________
DAVE
GOOD SPIRITS
500 CONSTELLATION (1987)
Back to Top Printable version View David Ross's Profile Search for other posts by David Ross
 
TStellato
"Deckhand"




Joined: August 12 2007
Posts: 206
Posted: August 04 2011 at 20:46 | IP Logged Quote TStellato


Em,

First it sounds like  this engine could have been a factory "lemon" to begin with since it was majored before you bought the boat and you have owned and maintained  it for several years with issues.  Unfortunately time is not on your side for any claims.

The good news is that Tom is one of two in this area that are the best in the business if not the best.  Good to be on his good side for him to put someone else off for a week or so to jump on your boat.  Also since he just did a complete look over on this engine a few months ago he can see quickly what failed.

If it makes you feel a wee bit better... with the weather being hot and sticky lately we have not taken the Connie out except if we are paid to, so you are not missing much.  Hopefully you will be up and running soon to enjoy the last few months, of which I consider to be the best!!

We are looking at hauling out the first part of Oct for a month or so with our gel coat repairs.  I am seeing if I can push it to mid to late Oct, so we can extend the boating season and hopefully our charter season.  We have selected Osprey at Herrington Harbor North as the company to do the repairs.  Very impressed with their work and reputation.  They will put us in a shed and complete the repairs.  Bad news is that we will be in motel for the month and experience "land sickness" lol!

Em,  Get up and running and perhaps we can get together after and "race" up the bay!  Vicki


__________________
Tony and Vicki
FIVE STAR
1985 Constellation
Back to Top Printable version View TStellato's Profile Search for other posts by TStellato
 
Delaware Jim
"Navigator"




Joined: December 27 2006
Posts: 381
Posted: August 05 2011 at 12:44 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

Emory,

I too have been following your narratives and can only thank my lucky stars I did not have any apparent damage in April when my port engine got hot... I'm still uneasy that it could show up later, but I ran 900+ miles to Florida afterward with no apparent issues...

Hang in there and try to keep smiling!  Picking the banjo also makes you feel better... maybe a good "blues" piece or two?!

Jim 



__________________
"Still In the Mood"
1985 Chris Craft 500 Constellation
Back to Top Printable version View Delaware Jim's Profile Search for other posts by Delaware Jim
 
David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: August 07 2011 at 20:39 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Hi all,

Had the boat polished, the yard did a nice job, but the stern Chris Craft emblem got damaged. I believe it was covered here before where one can be ordered. Anyone recall the source?



__________________
DAVE
GOOD SPIRITS
500 CONSTELLATION (1987)
Back to Top Printable version View David Ross's Profile Search for other posts by David Ross
 
TStellato
"Deckhand"




Joined: August 12 2007
Posts: 206
Posted: August 07 2011 at 23:25 | IP Logged Quote TStellato


Chrisparts.com seems to have all the Chris parts of that type.  I do not have Chris Craft on the stern so I am not sure which emblem you are looking at.


__________________
Tony and Vicki
FIVE STAR
1985 Constellation
Back to Top Printable version View TStellato's Profile Search for other posts by TStellato
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 08 2011 at 00:23 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Subject: Batteries

Back in May of 2007 we had a prolonged thread on the advantages of AGM compared to lead acid wet cell batteries.  Arlene and I took the Connie out on Saturday to one of our favorite anchorages.  After anchoring I went below to start the genny.  No Joy; the battery was dead.  Not to worry; I carry a jumper cable for such exigencies.  So I jumped the genny battery to the house battery bank.  Still no joy; the house battery was low although not dead and there was considerable resistance in the jumper cable.  They’re made for auto batteries not diesels.

After getting back home, I checked my engine logs for the age of the house batteries.  They were installed on July 23, 2002 which makes them just a tad over 9 years old.  One was dead but the other still had some life in it.  However, at 9 years, I decided they were both ready for retirement.  The genny battery was only 5 years old but also needed replacement.

I had one incident earlier this year with the exhaust elbow and turbocharger that set me back about $5000.  Replacing all three of these batteries with AGMs would cost about $2000.  I wasn’t in the mood for that.

So I looked up the old May 2007 thread on AGMs VS Wet Cells and got the following quote from Pacific Power Batteries:

“AGM Con's: Price is pretty stiff when compared with the wet lead acid batteries--generally by 2 or 3 times. This difference begins to fade if any of the above items listed are important to you: cramped space, no maintenance, difficult mounting, rapid recharge, explosion-proof and non-gassing. But if you are from Missouri, the Show-Me state, and if you don't need any of the fancy features, and you are willing to slosh a little water or acid on your jeans from time to time, then the wet lead acid battery is a tough design to beat overall. As a value of Dollars per Amp/hour or Dollars per year life expectancy, the AGM takes a back seat to the wet lead acid battery if you don't need any bells and whistles.”

The whole article is much longer.  You can look it up at:

http://www.pacificpowerbatteries.com/marinebatts.html

The AGMs are probably superior if you are planning on anchoring out a lot but are much more expensive to buy and run. Pacific Power Batteries says:

“When comparing price for value's sake, if the AGM GPL-4C costs $205.29 for 176 ah, that is a value of $1.16/ah. vs. the wet battery at $69.20/110ah. with a value of $.623/ah. (54%). So why would a person buy an AGM?”

After reading this again, I decide on wet cell batteries and bought two heavy duty 8D combo wet cells for the house batteries and a smaller 4D wet cell for the genny starting battery at a total cost of only $572.  These are the same types of batteries that I have been getting 8 to 9 years on in the past.  The same thing in AGM batteries would cost $1977 from West Marine.  And while I do have to add water occasionally, for the $1,405 difference in price I think I’ll just muddle along with the old wet cell batteries.  I already have plans on how to spend that $1,405.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on August 08 2011 at 00:28


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:03 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Thanks to all for the kind words. Heads removed, kits
pulled, oil pan dropped, crank is undamaged. Tom hopes
parts will be in on Friday and will begin reassembly on
Monday. Possibility of engine being on-line by late next
week. That's hopeful but not ruling out Murphy.

Going to the boat on Friday to do some "nasty work".
Clean block/cylinder surfaces, wash down with Brake
Kleen, clean off old gasket material on oil pan (bitch job)
and clean oil pan with Brake Kleen, etc, etc.   Hopefully I'm
saving some dough by having everything clean and ready
for reassembly when Tom returns on Monday.

Tried to post some pics but all I get is code. I format pics
to fit web page but no luck.   I have posted in the past but
not lately. Any hints?

Emory

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:29 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

To post a pic first use a picture editor to format your picture to show just what you want with as little extraneous stuff as possible.  The size the picture to be no more than 5" wide and less than 100k.  You do all this off-line and ahead of time.

Now log on to the forum and start typing in your post.  When you get to the point where you want to insert your picture finish your sentence an hit a line feed.  Now click on the icon with the arrow in it on the right end of the top line of icons.  A window will open asking whether you want to browse on your for the file to upload.  It helps to write down the location of the file before you start writing your post.  Click browse, search for your picture and upload it by clicking OK.

You can size the picture by clicking on it and pulling on the little squares that appear.  When you have the picture the way you want it click outside the area of the picture and the squares will disappear.  Your picture is finished and you can add more text if you want.  I used an old graph as an example in ths post.

Pete37

 



Edited by Pete37 on August 10 2011 at 21:56


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Delaware Jim
"Navigator"




Joined: December 27 2006
Posts: 381
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:31 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

All,

I had a small issue on our trip to Florida this spring... the port engine shutdown button failed to work.  I have tracked down the problem to the linkage to the fuel rack separated from the solenoid.  The solenoid operates fine, but the linkage is a snap on clip arrangement that will not stay together.  I find it unusual the solenoid pulls against the clip to operate (rather than push)...

I plan to spray all the linkage with WD40 to ensure it operates smoothly, but how do I "tighten" that attachment clip?  Any ideas woul be appreciated before I engineer something different.

Jim



__________________
"Still In the Mood"
1985 Chris Craft 500 Constellation
Back to Top Printable version View Delaware Jim's Profile Search for other posts by Delaware Jim
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:36 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Tried all that. Doesn't work. Even if I try to add an emoticon,
all that that shows is code. Like this   

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:38 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Ok, I just noticed the emoticon came up after I click the post
button. Let me try this with this picture.

10_213804_Cylinder_Walls.jpg">

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:39 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Ok, now you see the code I get. I sent a note to the
webmaster.

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:48 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

Your file name shouldn't have the "> at the end and you don't type in the name of the file.  You select it while doing the browse.

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:48 | IP Logged Quote eshover

@Jim - once that c-clip is sprung, there's nothing you can do
to tighten it. I have replaced both of mine. SAVE THE CLIP!
Go to a auto parts store and buy a few of them. The same
clips are on your transmission connection at the tranny. I had
one break in two and the linkage came off at a very
inopportune time. Thank God for duct tape!!   I keep several
in a zip lock bag marked for the purpose. Hope this helps.

Emory

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:54 | IP Logged Quote eshover

I realize that Pete. I choose the photo and click upload. The
code you see is what is displayed. I rename the photos so
that I can quickly pick the ones I want to display. I will format
one without renaming it and see if it uploads.

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:54 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

Checking the emoticons    .

Type in some text and then click on the emoticon.  They all seem to work,

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on August 10 2011 at 21:55


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 10 2011 at 21:59 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

Have you tried uploading jpg files you didn't create?

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on August 10 2011 at 22:01


__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 10 2011 at 22:03 | IP Logged Quote eshover

10_220320_P1010009.JPG">

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Bennett
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 121
Posted: August 10 2011 at 22:04 | IP Logged Quote Bennett

Uploading Pics-

I also can not and have not been able to attach pictures to this
forum. I have made sure the file size and type have met the
specs, but still, no success?

Bennett

__________________
Christine 1986 Chris Craft 500
Back to Top Printable version View Bennett's Profile Search for other posts by Bennett
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 10 2011 at 22:07 | IP Logged Quote eshover

You can see that the emoticons are working but my picture is
only code.

I am going to go up stairs and try my old computer and see
what happens.

E

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 10 2011 at 22:08 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

There is no file type named .JPG">.  How are you getting those last two characters?  No wonder your uploads don't work.

Pete37



__________________
INTERLUDE
A Murray Chris Craft Constellation 500
Back to Top Printable version View Pete37's Profile Search for other posts by Pete37
 
Fantasy
"Navigator"




Joined: November 30 2006
Posts: 324
Posted: August 11 2011 at 07:14 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Jim,

I've had to replace those clips too.  For a temporary repair, I wraped the clip and linkage with stiff wire so they could not separate but were still flexible.

John



__________________
"Fantasy"
460 Chris Craft Constellation
Back to Top Printable version View Fantasy's Profile Search for other posts by Fantasy
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 11 2011 at 11:51 | IP Logged Quote eshover

I have discovered that due to software configuration of Google Chrome you cannot upload pictures if that is your browser.  I have logged in using Explorer and can upload pics this way.  Brian Azar said that their software team is working of the forum to accept all types of browsers.

In the pictures above, you can view the overheating and scoring of the cylinder walls.

This picture shows how fouled the air boxes were.

 The starboard side was particularly bad.

This has been an issue from day one of my ownership.  Mr. Hug stated that he has seen these engines with 2500 hours on them and the air boxes not look like this.  I have cleaned them three times in 7 years and they were always fouled.  One possibility is that the wrong kits were installed when rebuilt prior to my buying.  Keep in mind, this engine has had a new turbo, injectors, tune-ups, etc. The starboard engine is original and has never displayed this issue.

  Here you can see scoring on the pistons. This occurred when the sealing rings melted. 

Bad Day In Black Rock (any old western movie fans out there?)

But what is done is done and like goes on.

Emory



__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 11 2011 at 12:07 | IP Logged Quote eshover

This sentiment says it all.  I'm acutally pretty clean here as it is early in the morning and I've just started for the day.  You should have seen me the evening before! :



__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 11 2011 at 12:13 | IP Logged Quote eshover

This is what the diesel fuel, oil and soot looks like mixed together in a fouled air box. I scrapped most of it out with my fingers and then used several cans of Brake Kleen to melt the rest and mop up with paper shop towels.  Now that the cylinders are out and can clean all the way around the chambers.

Tomorrow I clean the block and cylinder head surfaces and the oil pan.  Another nasty job but may save me a few bucks!  Hope I have enough left over for a six-pack!

Emory



__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Bennett
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 121
Posted: August 11 2011 at 12:21 | IP Logged Quote Bennett

Emory,

Thanks for the pictures. Have you removed the transmission yet, and if so what did you have to do for
clearance. Also, did the engine have to be raised to
remove the oil pan and if so, what was the procedure?

I have always used Google Chrome when trying to upload
pictures - thanks for the fix.

Bennett



__________________
Christine 1986 Chris Craft 500
Back to Top Printable version View Bennett's Profile Search for other posts by Bennett
 
eshover
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2011
Posts: 205
Posted: August 11 2011 at 12:33 | IP Logged Quote eshover

Bennett - no we haven't removed the tranny yet. Tom
doesn't think he has time for that job right now, but we'll
talk more about it next week.

He feels like he can place a 6x6 across the floor beams and
use a come-along to jack up the engine with the lifting
plates.
He more or less indicated that the seal job is about the
same work whether the engine is torn down or not and can
come back in the late fall or early winter to perform the
seal replacement.

I really wish he would do it now but he is working two other
jobs that really need to get finished.

I have already drilled a small hole in the bottom bung of
the bell housing but I need to either completely remove the
bung or drill a larger hold through the center of the bung.
With the oil pan shifted forward, I may be able to get
enough "swing" on a bar to break the bung loose. I had to
drill a hole in it with a 90 degree drill because we couldn't
get enough pull on the bar. That was at least 5 season
ago. If I can get a hole big enough through the bung, the
oil will drain more freely (as needed) into a shallow pan
with some pads in it. I don't use the boat enough to lose
that much oil. But as you know, when that flywheel is
spinning and there's enough oil for it to pick up, it will sling
it out through engine mount holes. I have been able to
keep thing under control through the use of pads. I think I
will find some small bolts to screw into the holes until we
can replace the seal.

Emory

__________________
"Southern Charm"
1986 Connie 500
Back to Top Printable version View eshover's Profile Search for other posts by eshover
 
Bennett
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 121
Posted: August 11 2011 at 13:13 | IP Logged Quote Bennett

Emory,

So I take it that you removed the heads to gain access to
the piston pins, I had assumed you had already pulled oil
pan and the piston rods.

I would be interested in the method of lifting the engine
and how much lift is required to pull the pan.

I have no idea the typical wear to the main bearings or if
this is even a concern. However, if the tranny was
removed, the crank could be dropped and these could be
replaced. Because the rear seal has failed, it might be a
good idea to check the radial play in the crank just to make
sure that this has not contributed to the seal leak. I have
no experience in diesels, but I have rebuilt gas engines
where the main bearings/crank clearance was causing rear
seal leakage.

Good luck,
Bennett


__________________
Christine 1986 Chris Craft 500
Back to Top Printable version View Bennett's Profile Search for other posts by Bennett
 
]
] ]
150 Pages « 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 »

  Post ReplyPost New Topic

] ] ]
]
  ]
Printable version Printable version
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
]
] ]

] ] ]
]
©2014, Boat Owners Association of The United States. All Rights Reserved.
This page was generated in 9.6563 seconds.
]
] ]