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TStellato
"Deckhand"




Joined: August 12 2007
Posts: 206
Posted: August 15 2007 at 17:15 | IP Logged Quote TStellato



Ken, Pete, Everyone,

Thank you for the welcome!  Here's the scoop.  I am Vicki and I guess you could say I am the Admiral (at least in our home!).  Tony is my husband.  I sent him to Fl to look at 50' Chris's.  He made the decision on this boat.  I have not seen her in person (lots of trust here!).  He knew that I would redo the interior of any boat her selected so he picked one that was sturdy and sparce.  He is on his way back up with her.  The whole boat is parquet floors except where area rugs have been laid.  BUT under the area rugs the parquet was removed so that the rugs would lay flat.  Hence the problem of replacing the parquet so that I can have true area rugs and lay them where I want.  the stairs are all wood with only carpet runners on top.

He unscrewed the top step leading aft and looked with a flashlight for the fuel value.  No luck in finding it.  I am going to have him go below and look on the far wall of the engine room for the value.  Meanwhile I am redecorating this boat and am all ready to jump on it when it arrives.  Canvas lady comes Tues, carpet guy on Weds, etc.  (It's a girl thing).  We have to plan plan plan.  So this ugly (but sturdy) boat will hopefully soon be pretty enough to show!  In the meantime I will have a lot more questions and welcome everyone's knowledge and advice.  I will ask the decorative questions and soon Tony will be on line and I am sure asking the mechanic questions that are not already answered in this forum.  Please be patient with us..  We are not new to boating only new to this boat.  We had a 83" steel boat before and a 40" Egg Harbor to run around on.  We just need to learn all the specifics with this Chris. 

Again thanks in advance for everyone's help and tolerance as we put this boat back together and make her a beautiful lady!  Vicki


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Tony and Vicki
FIVE STAR
1985 Constellation
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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 16 2007 at 00:44 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Vicki,

Sounds like there isn't much point persuing the valve problem.  Since Tony can't find them he will just have to continue running on the main tanks.  If he was in NC yesterday he is probably in VA today and will be home in a couple of days.  There will be plenty of time to figure out where the valves are after he gets to Annapolis.

I've seen a lot of trawlers with all parquet flooring and it makes for a rather dark looking interior.  And installing parquet around the engine hatches can be a problem.  When I bought my boat the previous owner had nailed the rugs down so you couldn't get at the engine room except through one small hatch.  I had to rip up the carpet and do it over.  Hope your previous owner hasn't done the same with the parquet. 

You need to have access to the engine room through all of the five main hatches which constitute nearly all of the lower salon floor.  The engine room is extremely crowded and there are parts of the engines that you just can't maintain without opening the hatches.   And if you have problems with the generator you will have to open up sections of the floor which aren't even hatches.  This makes for a very chopped up floor if done in parquet.  Even in carpet it's messy.

I'm looking at some old 2005 broker's photos of "Bohemia" and it looks like the previous owner carpeted over the hatches and parqued the rest of the floor.  This makes  a lot of sense since the carpet can easily be lifted when access to the engines is needed.  If you parqued over the rug area you would need seams at each of the five hatches.  This makes 6 six fore and aft seams and two port to starboard seems.  A rather messy arrangement and the parquet would be very prone to damage when the hatches are lifted.

One advantage of parquet though is that when Tony starts doing dirty messy engine jobs in the bilge (unavoidible) the parquet will be easier to clean than carpet.  Provided of course that he doesn't scratch it all up.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on August 16 2007 at 01:08


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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 19 2007 at 18:34 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

To All:

Subject: Connie Photos

I've seen a lot of photos of Connies on the brokers ads on Yachtworld but the pictures of the 46' Connie "Big Joy" are the best I have ever seen.  These are either studio shots of a 46' Connie or the owner is a professional photographer.  There are two ads by different brokers both for $219K.  Switch over to YachtWorld.com and take a look at them.  They were so good I made copies of them.  This is how a Connie should look.  While it's a 46' boat, a 50' Connie would look about the same.  With these pictures the boat should sell fast.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on August 19 2007 at 23:53


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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 19 2007 at 23:48 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken27,

Are you having any problems with the flooding up in your neck of the woods?  Any progress on the arches?  I think we are over the worst of summer here in MD.  The temperatures are dropping and we are finally getting some rain.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on August 19 2007 at 23:57


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Ken27
"Deckhand"




Joined: December 12 2006
Posts: 138
Posted: August 20 2007 at 17:04 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Hi Pete, and everone else,

I appreciate the thought.  We've had a very tough month here in MN., with the I-35 bridge collapse and now the flooding in southern MN.  Here in the twin city area, we're not affected by the flooding.  However, the Navy divers doing recovery at the collapse site have to deal with higher currents, now that we also, are finally getting some rain, too much in the south though. 

The collapse of the bridge has become reminiscent of 9/11.  It seems everyone knows someone directly or indirectly affected by it.  My wife and I have a distant relationship with a woman who lost her husband in the collapse, and I know someone who usually drives across the bridge every day at that time.  As she was approaching the bridge just minutes before the collapse, she unexpainably took the last exit before it.  She has no idea why she did that.  A minute or two later the bridge went down.  Gaurdian angel maybe?

As far as the arches are concerned, we finally heard from the first fabricator who has disappeared for months.  He claims he is willing to fulfill his commitment and supply them.  We'll see!  We are also talking with a supplier in Canada who is getting us drawings and specs.  Again, we'll see.  I need one of these arches soon so I can complete the electronics intallation phase of the project, and get the boat back to Nashville before the water starts getting hard, and while I'm sure I can still get fuel.  It gets real tricky trying to find fuel St. Louis and south, early and late in the year.

Safe and plentifull boating to all,

Ken

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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 20 2007 at 18:36 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken,

Don't know when the water gets hard in your area.  It gets hard here in late December.  Have you thought about getting refueled by truck?  That might relieve your fueling problem somewhat.  You may have to assemble that arch in Nashville.  That shouldn't be too hard if you can get some local help.  The big problem is making sure it fits and making the adjustments if it doesn't

It's strange.  Seems like summer just got started and already we're worrying about winter.

Pete37



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Ken27
"Deckhand"




Joined: December 12 2006
Posts: 138
Posted: August 20 2007 at 21:54 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Pete.

We can expect to see ice anywhere from early Nov. to early Dec.  However, most marinas try to have all boats hauled by mid to end Oct.  In the St. Louis area there are NO marinas because of all the commercial traffic.  There's a fuel stop, "Hoppies", south of St. Louis, which I always use.  Other than that, nothing except a public boat launch on a small river between there and the Ohio, where I can get to a tank truck.  Then its either the TN river or the Cumberland.  Because of all these challenges, most fuel IS taken on from tank trucks.  They tend to be very unreliable.  They don't show at the scheduled time, and prices can be all over the board.

We also have considered installing the arch in Nashville, however all my resources and contacts are here in MN.  It would simplify the process greatly to do it here.  Also, radar would make the trip somewhat easier.

I've always said, up until the fourth of July, summer goes by at a real comfortable pace, then after the fourth, it seems to fly by.

Ken

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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 21 2007 at 00:35 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken,

I took a quick look at my globe and measured the distance between the middle of MN and Nashville.  Wow!  It's almost 1200 miles.  I always thought of the Mississippi as being a fairly modern river but 1200 miles between gas stations!  It must be a lot more rustic out there than here on the east coast.

With the boat running at about 10 mph I can get about 1 mpg (with luck) so my range would be about 600 miles.  But you have to plan some reserve so 500 miles would be more realistic. 

Bladder tanks can be handy but not if you need 700 to 800 gallons of extra fuel.  Maybe you could get one of those plastic backyard swimming pools, mount it in the lower salon and fill it with diesel.  But then you wouldn't be able to get at the engines if you had a breakdown.

Looks like you've got less than 2 months to get out of MN before things shut down.  I can see why you're getting nervous.  At best you probably can't plan on the arches in less than a month so that leaves your time margin at about a month. 

Sorry I don't have any magic solutions to offer.  Maybe you could pop it on the deck of a barge that's going south.  But that's risky and probably expensive. Hope you have a good crew to help you take it south.  Winter runs can be dangerous if you're single handing and I've been told the Mississippi can be treacherous.

Good luck,

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on August 21 2007 at 00:39


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Ken27
"Deckhand"




Joined: December 12 2006
Posts: 138
Posted: August 21 2007 at 13:28 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Hi again Pete,

It's not that the Mississippi is so rustic, it's the major commercial traffic, especially St. Louis and downstream from there.  I think I mentioned "Hoppies" fuel barge south of St. Louis, which is about mile 183, with the confluence with the Ohio being Mile 0.  At mile 117.3 on the Miss. is the Kaskaskia river where there is a small lock and damn a mile upstream.  On the upside of the lock is a small boat ramp where I can bow into the bank and retrieve a fuel hose from a truck over the bow pulpit and fuel all four tanks.  The last time I fueled there the driver handed me the hose which had to be at least 3" in diameter.  I asked him how fast he pumped, when he said 80 gal./minute.  There was no way the tanks could take it that fast so I told him he had to slow it down.  He said he might be able to get it to 60 gal./min. but that's it.  I had fuel shooting out of every fill and covering the boat and me.  What a mess!  Anyway, after that stop, the next is either the TN river or the Cumberland, and those stops are miles off the Ohio.  It's all about fuel management.  MANY boats run out of fuel in this area.  TOWBOAT-US out of Green Turtle Marina on the Cumberland, are consistantly making runs to bring fuel to, or towing boats that have failed to manage their fuel usage.

I know this post is of little use to most of the others on the forum, but there are a few of us Connies in the central US.

Ken

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Furman1
"Deckhand"




Joined: November 27 2006
Posts: 227
Posted: August 23 2007 at 17:55 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

Water tank gauges:

As all of you probally know the gauge for the water tank is meaningless. It uses a float on a lever arm to gauge the level of the water and since the tank is only 14 or so inches high and on a slant makes it worse.

I talked with Pete about sharing with you about a new product that I have a patent pending on. I've had it on my boat about 6 months and have sold quite a few locally.  I am also in talks with several boat manufactures and thought I would share it with you now that the website is up and running.  Of course I would like to sell to you, but more than that I am interested in your feed back.  My personal email is furmancombes@comcast.net  or discuss it through this site. The website is www.watercounter.com 

I am offering a discounted introduction price to the Connie owners on this site if your interested. I will discount it $50.00 but you have to order it over the phone 912-898-8344 not through the website.

Thanks for your comments,



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Remember...the nearest land is usually beneath the boat!

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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 23 2007 at 18:02 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Furman,

Your post just showed up but I guess you know that by now.  Hey we just made 30 pages of posts. 290, posts and 12,115 reads.  Apparently your first attempt wound up on another forum of the Chris Craft site.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on August 23 2007 at 18:06


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Furman1
"Deckhand"




Joined: November 27 2006
Posts: 227
Posted: August 23 2007 at 18:15 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

I'm serious about the feed back

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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: August 24 2007 at 00:15 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Furman,

The ad is pretty good and tells the story well.  The major problem is price.  Typical old fashioned water gages cost only $30 to $60 while your system costs over $300 and for most people high accuracy in a water gauge isn't a high priority. 

However, people cruising in remote areas where water is hard to get will find it very useful.  I think you will sell some of these systems but I don't know how many.  Cruising sailors may find them very attractive.  Try advertising in sailing magazines as well as powerboat magazines.  You should try to show these gages working at a boat show.

Good luck with selling your product,

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on September 02 2007 at 14:56


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TStellato
"Deckhand"




Joined: August 12 2007
Posts: 206
Posted: August 25 2007 at 04:44 | IP Logged Quote TStellato



Just an update.  Boat made it home to the Chesapeake.  Tony said boat ran great!  Still looking for the fuel tank switch.  Ours is not located under the first step aft.  I have the crews coming for detailing, carpet and new canvas so we should be in good shape in a few weeks.  Fridge needed to be replaced.  Old one came out fine, but the new one was 1" too big to get down the stairs.  Ordered smaller size.  Who knew 1" was such  big deal lol!  We did find out how to get the back window off, so that it helpful for future items that need to get inside.

Found out just how damaging the FLA sun and salt is to boats.  Detailing the first time was not a do it yourself project.  Better to leave that to the young guys.  Vicki


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Tony and Vicki
FIVE STAR
1985 Constellation
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David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: August 27 2007 at 21:37 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Hi Furman, my water meter is very accurate except when the boat is at a higher speed and then my water useage is usually minimal. My heads use sea water. So I would not need any other set up. Hope I am a minority and your product is a success.

Dave



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DAVE
GOOD SPIRITS
500 CONSTELLATION (1987)
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Resolute
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: August 27 2007
Posts: 3
Posted: August 28 2007 at 05:52 | IP Logged Quote Resolute

All,

Introducingmy self...

I am a 501 owner relocating the vessel back to the Baltimore Inner Harbor after 6 seasons In Old Saybrook. I put up a summary project post in a new topic. I have completely tripped and rebuilt/refit the 501 since 1999. If I can share learnings and pats conduits, I'll be happy to. Regards

 



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Resolute
1987 Chris Craft Constellation 501
Hull #1 (HIN #111)
Geoff Davis, Owner
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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: September 02 2007 at 14:15 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Geoff,

Welcome Aboard!

Glad to see a 501 owner on the site.  So far it's been a 500 site but I have always had intentions to add the 501s to the list of Connie owners.  The problem was that my list of 501 owners was much less complete than my list of 500 owners.

The success of this site has been largely due to the fact that I have sent out letters to all the known owners of 500 Connies to alert them of the existence of the site.  There were 73 500s built and I've sent letters to about 68 of the owners so far. 

I've been working on the 501 list and now have data on about 32 of the 39 owners.  But during the time I have been working on the list a number of them have changed hands so I need to update the list. 

My list appears to be right because it lists "Resolute" as the first 501 built with a hull number of 111, located somewhere in Connecticut and owned by a guy named Geoffrey.  I don't know why CC started with hull #111 but I haven't found any 501s with lower numbers.  "Sojourner", hull number 149, built in November 1990 seems to the last 501 built.

I made one mistake when I started this site.  I didn't ask for email addresses of the owners.  Now with over 100 potential owners, contacting them by snail mail is too slow and expensive.  Most of the stuff can be transferred as posts on the site but there is some information that I need to transfer to owners only.  And for that I need an email address.

Therefore, I would like to ask you and any other owners who happen to read this post to contact me at Pminott@aol.com so that I can get a list of your boat's name and your email address.  This isn't mandatory but it will sure help the success of the site.  If you know the names of any other Connies (460s, 500s or 501s ) that information would also be useful.

Again, Welcome Aboard,

Pete37

 



Edited by Pete37 on September 05 2007 at 10:13


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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: September 02 2007 at 14:53 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Tony & Vicki,

Congratulations on the completion of your trip to the Chesapeake from FL.

To find the fuel switches just work along the fuel line from the tank toward the engine.  The switch, if you have one, has to be somewhere between the tank and engine.  I'm sure that Tony will find it fairly quickly.

I looked at the refridgerator in the broker's ads for your boat.  Bohemia has a totally different galley layout than most Connies.  My fridge is stiil the original (a two door refridgerator/freezer) which is far too big to remove without complete disassembly.  It is located where your stove is and the stove is where your fridge is.  A large microwave is located over the stove. 

Over the years, I've had several fridges go bad and the solution has always been to just replace the compressor.  Fridge salesmen don't like to tell you that.  They would much rather sell you a whole new unit.  But of course, as you found out, the new unit has to be smaller because it won't go through the doors.  The bottleneck is usually the stairs from the lower to upper salon.  Windows can be removed to install much larger items.

Pete37



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Lynn48
"Seaman Recruit"




Joined: August 27 2007
Posts: 2
Posted: September 03 2007 at 17:59 | IP Logged Quote Lynn48

  Wish I would have known about this forum three years ago. I have a 46 connie Scorpio II which was called Sabrina out of the MD area. Been re doing the boat for over three years. All plumbing lines fresh water and waste, plus new toilets and water tank. The starbooard engine is apart because the balance weight on the cam shaft came loose. Mechanic said first time to see this. 6-71 was running  ok up to 1200 RPMS then vibration started. Hope to have back up and running next week. Glad there are a few who enjoy this knd of boats. Also my model year is1988, the books I  have found the 46's last year of production as 86. Keep up the good work   Lynn48



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Lynn48        &nbs p;         &nbs p; Scorpio II 460 Connie            
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Banjoman
"First Mate"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 553
Posted: September 04 2007 at 22:07 | IP Logged Quote Banjoman

Still don't think I know how to use this forum properly.  I posted this as a new topic and it didn't show up under the Connie forum.  So I shall try, try again.....

Hi folks,

1)Would like any first-hand information regarding replacement of the engines in a flush-deck MY (such as the 460/500 or a similar Uniflight).  And no, I'm not talking about in-frame rebuilding.  I mean bench built DD's and installed without tearing the engines down (again) just to get them in.  It has been suggested the cabin roof be cut in panels  (port and starboard) and the old engines be removed and new engines installed, then the panels are re-glassed.  Sounds reasonable, if not expensive.  However, the time it takes to tear down the old engines for removal AND new engines for install wouldn't be very cheap either, not to mention the cost of any damage done getting the (very heavy) heads, manifolds, short block, etc. out through the cabin space.

2) Has anyone had a "fuel starvation" issue?  Low RPM @ full load?  I'm only getting 1950 rpm at full load! Can the old fuel lines cause this?  My fuel lines are original (1986) and I've had to replace a couple of them at the valve manifold.  I had to do a lot of work on the port engine over the last 3 years and, yes, I've stood on the fuel line on more than one occasion.  Of course, my low rpm doesn't seem to change whether on the forward OR aft tanks.  Plenty of soot on transom too.  For some reason, the exhaust note on the port engine even sounds different also.  Got any ideas?

If anyone has had any experience in this area, I'd love to hear from you.

Capt. G. Emory Shover - Eastern Marine Services,  LLC

m/v Southern Charm - Mill Creek, Md



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Capt. G. Emory Shover
Eastern Marine Services, LLC
Marine Survey - Yacht Delivery
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Furman1
"Deckhand"




Joined: November 27 2006
Posts: 227
Posted: September 04 2007 at 22:12 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

Sounds like a bad turbo.

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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: September 05 2007 at 10:11 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

To Emory:

Subj: Engine Rebuilds

Engines are normally removed from a boat by stripping them down and lifting them out through the side windows of the lower cabin.  A special boom crane often mounted to a fork lift is used for the lifting.  The first thing to do is to measure the side windows of the cabin.  Then talk to a Detroit engine mechanic to find out what clearance the engines will require after they are stripped down.  Engine rebuilders should also know that.  If you need more clearance the top and bottom of the window opening may have to be cut out and repaired after the engine swap is made.  Don't cut into the decks because they are cored and very hard to reseal properly.

Cutting holes in the top of the cabin is certainly a possibility but it will leave some ugly scars in the top of the cabin which will permanently scar the appearance of the boat.  It may also require rebuilding of some of the beams supporting the cabin top.  And all of the headlining in the lower cabin, dinnette area and over the galley will have to be replaced.  A messy job and people who do headlining on boats are scarce as hen's teeth.  You usually wind up with someone whose experience is in car headliners.  I've never heard of anyone who has replaced engines by cutting holes in their cabin top.  But I guess it can be done.  Ken may have some experience in replacing engines. 

I've only heard of one Connie where new engines have been installed.  About 30% have had major overhauls on one or more engines. These are mainly in-boat rebuilds.  Failures start at as little as 800 hours for careless owners, become fairly common at 1500 hours and few Connies reach 2500 hours without major engine overhauls.  About all you can expect out of a 6V92 of the type used in Connies is 3000 hours.  Owners of 460 Connies shouldn't gloat though.  Their heavily supercharged 671s don't do any better. Of course 6V92s are out of production so anything you get now will be a rebuild. It's basically a question of whether you want a factory rebuild or an in-boat rebuild. 

If its a factory rebuild you can still strip it down and insert it through the side window of the cabin.  I've had my engines stripped down from the top and it isn't that big a job.  Stripping and reassembling the engine isn't a big a job either (about a day of mechanics time) and doesn't damage the engines in any way if done by a competant mechanic.  At $70 per hour that's $560 per engine.

Basically, cutting holes the the cabin ceiling saves you the cost of stripping down the old engine to get it out and stripping and reassembling the new engine to get it in.  That would be about $3,000-$4,000 for two engines.  This has to be balanced against the cost of cutting the holes and repatching the ceiling.  Plus there is the imponderable of how badly the patch will scar the boat.

I hadn't priced factory rebuilt engines lately but in-boat rebuilds cost about $3,500 per hole or $42K for two engines. In order to get a more accurate answer I called Johnson & Towers.  J&T gave a 20K per engine estimate which they said was probably low.  A figure of $25K per engine was what they thought was more typical. When asked for the cost of factory rebuilds J&T just said ask your local boat yard for the costs of removing and reinstalling the engines. I tried several other rebuilders but could only find one who still worked on 6V92s.  Several said they didn't work on them any more because of the difficulty of finding parts.  J&T confirmed that parts were hard to find but that they could still get them.  An in-boat overhaul of your engines would therefore be about $50K.

Basically, the cost of the overhaul is about the same regardless of whether you do it at the factory or in the boat and the same people would be doing the overhaul. Since so few marine 6V92s are being rebuilt there is no such thing as a production line.  If you want factory rebuilds of your engines, J&T would probably charge about the same for the engine rebuilds but the costs of removing the old engines and replacing them after the rebuilds would have to be added to the rebuild cost.  I would estimate that the removal and reinstallation costs at about $10K so a pair of factory rebuilt engines installed would be about $60K.

Rebuilding usually includes only the major engine components.  If you want all the top end stuff and accessories (turbos, intercoolers, blowers, risers, alternators, starters, etc.) rebuilt add another $10K per engine.  That's about what it cost me when I had my top ends repaired.  Don't expect to get new components.  In most cases they aren't being built anymore.

And while you are at it, the 20 year old transmissions should be overhauled.  Figure about $5K per transmission.

With all rebuilt parts, factory rebuilt engines, top end components, starters and transmissions the total cost rises by about $15K per engine to $90K total for both rebuilt power plants installed in the boat and working.  And with a bit of bad luck (non-rebuildable parts, etc) you can easily be at $100K.

It's scary!

Pete37

 



Edited by Pete37 on September 06 2007 at 01:43


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Ken27
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Joined: December 12 2006
Posts: 138
Posted: September 05 2007 at 14:52 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Greetings Emory,

Pete mentioned I might have some experience with engine rebuilds on the Connies.  As a matter of fact, I was involved in a complete rebuild of an engine that had been dramatically overheated.  The previous owner of another 500 had the really bad habit of disabling his alarms when starting the engines.  He also didn't watch his gauges.  He was running the boat very hard one day, lost an impeller and destroyed an engine.  I was present for most of the rebuild that was done in the boat.  The work was done by two trained DD mechanics.  Every moving part was replaced along with the cylinder sleeves.  Like I said earlier, the entire job was done in the boat.  I was there when the smaller of the two mechanics was laying on his back, under the block, torqueing the bearing caps.  With all moving parts and cylinder sleeves replaced, the engine was as good as new, maybe better, as I feel there's something to be said about using a "seasoned" block and head.

Ken

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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posted: September 05 2007 at 23:07 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken & Emory,

I sort of agree with Ken on in-boat rebuilds.  They seem to be as good as factory rebuilds since the volume of 6V92s is so low that factory rebuild facilities for blocks don't really exist.  If my engines blow (heaven forbid) I think I will opt for in-boat rebuilds since you save a lot on getting the block in and out of the boat. 

All of the accessories such as blowers, intercoolers, starters, etc. are factory rebuilds anyway since there are few new parts available so it doesn't make any difference on them whether the rebuild of the block is in-boat or factory.  

The major difference between a factory rebuild and an in-boat rebuild is probably that with a factory rebuild you get a better paint job.  Of course Factory Rebuilt does sound better until you realize the limitations of the real situation.  Brand new 6V92s straight off the Detroit production lines just don't exist.  Factory in this case means a small machine shop that does a few dozen (at most) rebuilds per year and perhaps only a couple of your particular 6V92 version per year.  It is what we call in business a cottage industry.  The 6V92 is an old (but good) engine that isn't a major factor in today's marine diesel business.

While I love my Connie, I would have to consider investing $100K for engine rebuilds very seriously in a vessel which in a few years will only fetch $220K (after brokers fees, etc.) on the brokers block.  You can only expect to recover about 50% of what you invest in engine rebuilds when you sell the boat.  And that only if you sell the boat in a few years.  It doesn't seem fair but that's the way it is.

Be cautious and don't rebuild your engines unless there is no alternative.  Rebuilding just because you want clean new engines can be a financial disaster.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on September 06 2007 at 01:44


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Furman1
"Deckhand"




Joined: November 27 2006
Posts: 227
Posted: September 10 2007 at 09:30 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

For those of you who need replacement window vinyl track, pulls, or locks go to http://aluminum2000.com/wprts.html this is the source. The track can be found by clicking on the vinyl display at the bottom. Note there are two types of track an upper and lower. It only comes in black now. Hope this helps.  Talk to Denise when you call 717-569-2300

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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posted: September 10 2007 at 10:50 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Whenever, my wife and I talk about putting up new curtains, the subject of where do you find the curtain hardware comes up.  The particular item we need is the plastic sew-on tabs which none of the normal curtain people seem to know anything about.  I've looked that up several times and keep loosing it.  So this time I did a web search for "curtain tracks, marine" and found a couple of sites.  The first was www.curtainfair.com and the second was www.recmar.com/products_accessories.htm. These appear to be the original tracks and accessories used in most Connies.  Curtainfair will send you samples so that you can make sure they are the right thing.

And finally, this time I made up a hanging folder titled "Interior Decoration" where I will put all the data on interior decoration; rugs, curtains, paints, etc.  Next time I'll be able to find those sew-on tabs.  I have a four drawer legal size filing cabinet in which I keep most of my data on Connies.  It's nearly full and I'm going to have to look for another cabinet.  Unfortunately I have several xerox boxes full of unsorted Connie stuff which needs to be filed.  And there's also a six foot high bookshelf loaded with engine manuals and all sorts of stuff related to Connies.  Some day I'll get around to it; but not today.

Pete37



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Furman1
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Posted: September 10 2007 at 11:38 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

Most of the RV supply stores have those tabs in stock. Or at the RV sales offices

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TStellato
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Joined: August 12 2007
Posts: 206
Posted: September 11 2007 at 21:36 | IP Logged Quote TStellato



Hi,

I was at Campers World today with our RV and bought a package of their "snap Tape" hardware for the curtains.  It fits the tracks.  It is clear light-weight plastic with the snaps spaced on the tape.  I bought pre-pleated curtains (from JCPenney's) and will sew the tape in between the pleats on the top.  You can order this on line.  If you wish to use traditional hang down tabs you can buy the tracking there also.

Pete,  the old "Bohemia" is now known as "Five Star"  She has been compounded and waxed top side and has new carpet, drapes (soon) and new furnishings.  We decided to keep the parquet floor and insert the carpet to be rolled back for engine access.  New canvas cushions are ordered and new bridge carpet.  In a month she will be hauled and new bottom paint and zincs.  We love the layout and the sturdy Chris build.  She made it up from Lauderdale with no problems (except looking ugly on the way up!).  I think that we will have this boat for a long time.  I am amazed at the storage.  Still having a problem with the fuel tanks and the controls for using the forward tanks.  We found the values (on the back wall not under the top stair)  but there are switches in the forward area also.  We are going to switch and run the engines dockside to see if we are using the forward tanks.  If not and we run dry, we will be at dockside and able to reprime the mains easily.

replaced the Fridge.  As you noted our galley has been changed to having the counter lower towards the salon and the fridge placed where the original stove was.  This was a big reason we bought this boat. We liked the open airy feeling.  FYI  The only fridge that we found to fit down the stairs was from Lowe's.  It fit perfectly in the area that we have.  Owners who have the original double door will not be able to replace with the same.  It will not go down the stairs.

I have used a company "homereserve.com" to replace furniture on other boats.  It is great to have a sectional and design it yourself.  I have used this on the lower salon, electing to remove the built in sofa.  Upper salon we found a ready-made sectional to fit.  We also found the devise on EBay to have a mechanical lift for a flat screen in a cabinet.  Ordered it and we are building a shallow cabinet (12" deep) on the aft starboard wall.  I have redone  4 boats so I have learned  what fits once you are able to figure the way inside.  On the Chris we know that we are limited to the back window.

 Having fun, spending money to make this boat a great Chris!   Would love to help plan for a 2008 Spring or Summer event.

Vicki



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Tony and Vicki
FIVE STAR
1985 Constellation
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Fantasy
"Navigator"




Joined: November 30 2006
Posts: 324
Posted: September 12 2007 at 09:14 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Hi Vicki,

Thanks for the info on Campers World and your idea of sewing the hangers into pre-pleated curtains.  We have just re-done our interior  (carpet, furniture, fabrics) and have almost completed the upper salon curtains.  Your idea could be a real time saver for the rest of the curtains in the boat.

For others who are struggling with the refrigerator and other large items, I found that I could remove the lower salon handrail, which leaves 27 1/2" clearance. It is screwed in at the bottom step and the helm console.  The screws in the console can be accessed by removing the adjacent lower salon speaker and also the a/c control on the helm.  It's a job for a contortionist but it is doable.

This should allow room for the fridge with the doors removed.  However, we have never found a new side by side that will fit in the space, so we are keeping the old one.  I think Pete mentioned a new compressor as an alternative and I know Dave has done that successfully.  Our unit has been running a little warm so yesterday, I pulled it out and cleaned the coils, fan and compressor from the back.  The fan pulls air from a small section of the coils which was very dusty.  Temps are now where they should be.

Has anyone ever tried covering the fridge doors with stainless looking Formica?  If I could figure out a good way to trim the edges, I might try it.

John



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460 Chris Craft Constellation
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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posts: 2317
Posted: September 12 2007 at 10:27 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Tony & Vicki,

Glad to hear your redecoration is moving so swiftly.  Are you documenting your boat?  Your boat is still listed as "Bohemia" on the Coast Guard records.  Maybe their paperwork is just slow.  I am changing my paperwork to show "Bohemia" is now "Five Star".

The companies I mentioned in my post of the 10th sell sew on tapes as well as sew on tabs but perhaps J. C. Penney's is more convenient.  Generally I try to avoid plastic because it tends to get brittle after a few years.  I saw how the old owners of "Bohemia" set up their carpet and parquet in the lower salon and it made sense because it allowed the carpet to be easily rolled back to get at the engines.  But I thought the pattern of the carpet was rather busy and obnoxious.  I think you made the right choice in leaving the parquet the way it was.  And if you should decide you want to change later it won't be too expensive.

For my boat I want a clean uninterrupted flow of carpet in the lower salon with no discontinuities on which I can trip.  I have worked out a way to do it and still be able to easily roll the carpet back for easy access to the engines.  The carpet will be replaced this winter.

There should only be three switches for shifting fuel flow.  But safety codes also require a shutoff valve on each tank and most Connies have them.  These may be the switches you are referring to in the forward area.  BTW, repriming the engines isn't always that easy even if you have the repriming pumps.  Make sure your batteries are in good shape before repriming.

When ordering furniture for a boat you need to be cautious.  Boat furniture is much smaller than home furniture.  Furniture manufacturers don't always recognize that.  Make sure that you define the dimensions of the furniture you want exactly; length, width, height, seat length, seat width and seat height.  Also it makes life much easier if you design your furniture so that the back can be removed.  Use the dimensions of your old furniture if you have it. I've seen a lot of Connies with bulky "home style" furniture which looks fine on the showroom floor but is totally out of proportion on a boat.

A lot of Connies had the TV set in the lower salon mounted on the port side next to the dinette.  That makes a convenient viewing angle for all those seated in the lower salon.  The cabinets there are about 12" deep.  You will see this arrangement in the photos shown in many of the broker's ads.  Of course these were for the old style tube type TVs.  A flat screen TV would be much easier to fit in.

We're trying to arrange an end of summer Connie rendezvous probably on the Rhode River. I ran the list of owners and found 16 Connies on the Bay including 3 460s, 10 500s and 3 501s.  Of these 5 are definite "No Shows", 5 are unlikely to show and 6 are possible shows.  A three boat rendezvous seems likely and up to 6 are possible.  Any interest?  Another possibility is to just have a dinner meeting.  I could arrange something at the Kent Island Yacht Club and we could make plans for next year's rendezvous.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on September 12 2007 at 15:59


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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posted: September 12 2007 at 15:45 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi John,

To get the coils on the refrig really clean, pull it out from its closet and blow it out in both directions with a compressed air gun set at about 30 psi.  Be gentle though.  Don't have a compressor?  Beg, borrow or buy one.  They are very handy around a boat.

I've seen fridge doors covered with various coverings and more often than not the covering gets loose and looks worse than the original door.  Properly applied paint may work though.

If your fridge is running warm try the dollar bill test on the door seals.  Put a dollar between the door and the fridge seal, close the door and then pull the dollar out.  If it comes out easily you probably have a leaky seal.  The bill ought to be fairly new.  Try the test at a number of locations on the seal.  If all else fails call a professional.  He can put the compressor in if necessary.

Interested in the rendezvous I mentioned above?

Wow! We're up to 13,703 views and 310 posts!

Pete37

 



Edited by Pete37 on September 12 2007 at 16:02


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Banjoman
"First Mate"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 553
Posted: September 12 2007 at 16:31 | IP Logged Quote Banjoman

Pete - I may make the rendevous, but I need to know when and where.

To all: Some folks have opted to removed the flybridge settees in order to create an "open" bridge with the abililty to adjust their chairs, etc.  If you are one of those and still have the original settees (in any condition), please contact me. I would be interested in purchasing the foundations from you.

Emory



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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
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Posted: September 12 2007 at 19:12 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

The date hasn't been set yet but it would probably have to be on a Saturday or Sunday.  The 15th & 16th is too soon so it would have to be the 22nd & 23rd or possibly the 29th & 30th.  After that the weather is probably too cold.

The location is tentatively the Rhode River (near Annapolis) but it could be anywhere in that general location.  Weekdays are all right with me but I suspect that they aren't for the working stiffs.

Pete37

PS: Where are you keeping your boat now.  I have it marked as a Virginia boat and thought it was too far away for a mid Chesapeake rendezvous.



Edited by Pete37 on September 12 2007 at 20:09


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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posted: September 12 2007 at 19:57 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

To All,

Things are getting a little confusing.  Some of us are using our names as IDs, some are using their boat names as IDs, others are using their nicknames as ID's and some are forgetting to sign their posts.  All my records are filed according to boatname so if someone uses a nickname I have to look it up to see which boat and owner it applies to.

Please, please, please

Add the name of your boat (all in caps) to your ID as I have below:



Edited by Pete37 on September 12 2007 at 20:11


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Banjoman
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Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 553
Posted: September 12 2007 at 21:28 | IP Logged Quote Banjoman

Pete - I moved my boat from Virginia to MD on Memorial Day.  I'm on Mill Creek a stone's throw from Cantler's Rest.

A weekday for me is out.  But a nice Saturday sounds like fun!

Emory Shover

SOUTHERN CHARM



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Monopoly1954
"Deckhand"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 107
Posted: September 12 2007 at 22:07 | IP Logged Quote Monopoly1954

Hi Pete,

I have a 1985 500. I purchased it in 11-03. I have been looking for a replacement sink for the galley and the lock for aft cabin closet door. This is the same lock for the overhead berth in the third stateroom. If anyone has any idea or information I would be very interested.

Thanks for any help you can give me.


Corey
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Pete37
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Posted: September 13 2007 at 02:12 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Corey,

I think I know the lock your speaking of.  It's the lock on one of the two mirrored doors in the master stateroom which keeps the door from swinging open when underway.  It has a knob you turn which moves a bolt upward into the door frame.  I believe that the correct name is dead bolt door latch or dead bolt door lock.  But there are hundreds of different models. 

I've looked in the Bliss, BOW, Defender, E&B, Hamilton Marine, Manhattan Marine, Perko, Sadler's, Washington Marine, West Marine and Wilcox-Crittendon catalogs so far.  I also did a sweep of the web with no luck.  There are plenty of door locks but not the one we have. It's quite possible this is not a marine lock.  I'm running out of places to search.  If you have the old latch are there any identifying numbers on it?  Perhaps someone else can recognize it.

I have broker's pictures of your boat.  She's the old "R Cubby 2" of Ft Lauderdale, FL and had both engines replaced or majored by the previous owners in 2001.  I don't remember the Whaler on the FB on "R Cubby".  Is that something you added?  I've been trying to get a cost estimate on engine majors.  Did the previous owners leave any paper on the cost of the repairs?

Please put the name of your boat  (in caps) on your ID as I have done below.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on September 13 2007 at 10:49


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Pete37
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Posted: September 13 2007 at 02:16 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

I see where you are located and Rhode River shouldn't be a problem for you.  Any preference on weekend?

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on September 13 2007 at 02:17


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Banjoman
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Posted: September 13 2007 at 07:18 | IP Logged Quote Banjoman

Pete - the weekend of the 29th is Trawler Fest at Solomon's.  I had planned to go.  It's a wonderful event and you meet a lot of nice folks.  Our boats may not be true trawlers, but I'll bet a lot of us run them like trawlers for periods of time.  You can learn a heck of a lot by going on them and talking to the owners.  Anyway, do not discount early Oct.  Oct. can be very balmy and down right hot during the day sometimes, but plenty cool for good sleeping!  How about the first weekend of October? Or second weekend for that matter?  Everyone should have a lot of matters put to bed by then.

Emory Shover - SOUTHERN CHARM

 



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Fantasy
"Navigator"




Joined: November 30 2006
Posts: 324
Posted: September 13 2007 at 07:57 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Pete,

Re: cleaning refrigerator coils, I use a vacuum and brush.  Commercial coil cleaner spray, available at most home centers for a few dollars, will help get any hard to reach spots.  I would be concerned about using compressed air, especially in an enclosed environment.  It's sloppy and dangerous (I have a relative that got a form of Legionnaire's from cleaning a dusty air duct).

I doubt we will be able to make a rendezvous this year.  Our "season" starts Nov. 1st and I need to haul out, and otherwise prep for our trip south.  If the group sets a date for next year, we'll do our best to make it.

John



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