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Monopoly1954
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Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 107
Posted: January 31 2008 at 21:33 | IP Logged Quote Monopoly1954

Hi Delaware JIm,


Thanks for the information. The problem with that location, I have 2 8D Batteries for the inverter right in the center of the compartment. I also have the inverter under the floor.

Thanks for the info


Corey
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Delaware Jim
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Posted: January 31 2008 at 21:40 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

Hi Corey,

Thanks for the response.  I am planning to install an inverter next to the electric panel (aft of panel in "storage area) with a couple of added batteries on starboard side behind saddle tank.  A bit of a long cable run, but using 3/0 cable, so it should be OK.

 

Delaware Jim

 



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Monopoly1954
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Posted: January 31 2008 at 23:33 | IP Logged Quote Monopoly1954

Hi Delaware Jim,

When I purchased the boat it was already on board. I have a 3500 watt inverter.

I run only a couple of items. I run the water pump, the refrigerator when the power goes down in the summer and 1 plug for the coffee maker.

It appears to get the job done. If I am on a hook the refrigerator runs all night. I think the the batteries are happy when the generator kicks on in the morning.

On long distance trips I might not run the generator.

I have gotten 5 years out of the batteries



Corey


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MONOPOLY
1986 Chriscraft 500
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Fantasy
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Joined: November 30 2006
Posts: 324
Posted: February 01 2008 at 07:24 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Hi Jim,

Here is something to consider: Before installing a new battery bank, you might try using your house batteries to supply the inverter.  That set up has worked reasonably well for me and doesn't require more space and weight.

If you find that it's inadequate, you can always add the new bank.  My inverter taps into the generator selector switch, so it will potentially run anything that doesn't require more than 3kw.

Also, put in a 12v water pump if you will be on the hook often.  The 120v pump uses a lot of juice, especially when it kicks in.

Underway, I never need to use the generator.  We run the refrigeration and occasionally the microwave, toaster, coffee pot and often have a crock pot simmering so that our evening meal is ready for us when we anchor.  The electrical loads just need to be managed.

If you will be back on the Sassafras next summer, I'd be happy show you the set up.

John



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Furman1
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Posted: February 01 2008 at 07:54 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

John

How many batteries do you have on your inverter?  Type and total amp hrs.

Furman



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Fantasy
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Posted: February 01 2008 at 09:12 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Hey Furman,

I use two Interstate "Workaholic" 8D's for the house batteries (and two additional for the cranking batteries).  They are each 1400 CCA and 450 RC.

I have also rigged a switch so that I can add one of the cranking batteries in parallel with the house batteries.  This is not needed if the batteries are at full charge but sometimes we use the inverter for several hours before going to bed.  In that case, adding the third battery gets us through the night.  Running the generator the next morning for a couple hours before we leave brings everything up without a problem.  Still, there is some degree of safety since the one unused cranking battery could start both engines.

John



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"Fantasy"
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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: February 01 2008 at 13:40 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken,

No I haven't been able to get that data yet.  My source seems non-responsive.  Will have to xerox a copy from my records.

Pete37



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Ken27
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Posts: 138
Posted: February 01 2008 at 14:20 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Pete,

Thanks for all your efforts.  If there are any expenses at all, let me know and I will be more than happy to reimburse you.  I just want to get the info.

Furman,

For what it's worth here is my two cents on the inverter.  I installed a 3KW on the Good Life as part of the restoration/upgrade.  I intalled two AGM, read $$$$, one in front of each engine.  I removed the lube holding tank in front of the starboard engine.  It was never used.  I also fabricated a frame of SS angle iron to mount the Port AGM across the stringers in front of that engine.  Now I have the use of those two batteries along with the two house batteries, which like the AGM's, are 8D's.  Because I'm using two different types of batteries, I have them isolated from each other with a relay that directs the charge to either pair and then stops the charge to the house or AGM's as they reach full charge.  Because the AGM's charge at a different rate, this was a neccessary modification.  I have also wired the alternator on the starboard engine to charge the AGM's when under way.  If you're interested, I could do a schematic and fax or mail it to you.  I know this sounds somewhat complicated but it actually is pretty straight forward, covers all situations, and is worry free.

BTW, I mounted the inverter on the back side of the step on your left, as you go down the ladder to the gen. room.  It's totally accessible and out of the way at the same time.  This also made the cable runs about as short as possible.

If I think of anything else, I'll get back to you.

Ken



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Pete37
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Posted: February 04 2008 at 21:31 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Guys,

Trying to log in from Santee, SC but Boat US doesn't seem to like me. Maybe this try will work.

Pete37



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Ken27
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Posted: February 06 2008 at 14:06 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

John,

Back to your great idea of the Craftsman tool chest.  I finally got the boat inside the shop and was able to spend some time onboard.  I measured the same cabinet on the Good Life and came up with an opening of 26 1/2" wd. by 22" hi., with an actual depth of 14 1/2".  Does this match what you have on the 46'?  If so, do you know the model number of the chest you bought?

Thanks,

Ken



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Fantasy
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Posted: February 06 2008 at 18:45 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Hi Ken,

Those are the same cabinet dimension.  Sorry, I don't see any model number on the chest.

The chest measures approximately 25 1/2" wide, 12" deep and 18" high without the hinged lid, which I removed with a grinder.  There are a number of manufacturers that make metal chests so try Lowe's, Home Depot, etc., if you don't find it at Sears.

The chest fit right in the cabinet with enough clearance for the bottom drawer to slide out without hitting the teak plywood paneling.  I ripped a few pieces of 1" thick pine scraps to trim out around the top shelf so their are no gaps between the chest and the interior of the cabinet and then painted them to match the chest.  On the aft side of the cabinet, I have a video A-B-C switch and I had to notch out the pine trim for that (I don't know if the switch is a standard item).  The chest width is trimmed with bright aluminum flat stock.

Good luck with the project, Ken.  Let me know if you have other questions.

John

 



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Ken27
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Posted: February 06 2008 at 19:26 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

John,

Thanks for the info.  I have a Craftsman catalogue of all their tool chests so I'm sure I can find the one you used.  I thought you might have the 12" deep chest.  I would like to get a 16" deep chest in the cabinet.  The cabinet is 14 1/2" deep from the face.  I'm going to see if I can get the deeper one in by reworking the back of the cabinet.  It will provide for a little more room for storage of tools.  If I don't have enough to fill the chest, I can buy more tools.  Whoopie!

Ken



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Fantasy
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Posted: February 06 2008 at 19:59 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Ken,

I'll bet the 16" deep chest will work great, assuming the other dimensions are OK.  Just a little more work but there is definitely space behind the rear panel.  The only thing to look out for is the hose for the deck drain and the saddle tank hoses which can probably be re-routed if they're in the way.

Post pictures of your progress!

John



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Banjoman
"First Mate"




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Posts: 553
Posted: February 14 2008 at 13:50 | IP Logged Quote Banjoman

Any of you folks have the part number for the Jabsco raw water pump cover-plate gasket?  I can't get to my boat right now but would like to order some new gaskets.  Thought I'd try the lazy man's way first.  Hope everyone has suffered the latest ice-storm!  (you Florida cats do not need to reply!  Ha!)

 

 



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Delaware Jim
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Posted: February 14 2008 at 23:00 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

With the last cold snap, the Bay water temps have finally dropped to a point where the reverse cycle AC's are not keeping up... as I plan to live aboard for quite awhile, I've been thinking about "more robust" heating and cooling than the 5 self contained AC units.  Has anyone converted a Connie to a hydronic heat/cooling system?  Diesel fired heating?

A neighbor on a sailboat in the marina was recently hauling in 5 gal cans of diesel - he explained "on really cold days" he consumed about 3 gallons in his diesel fired heater on a significantly smaller sailboat.  My estimates suggest I could run about 45-50 days on one of the 200 gallon main tanks, and ALMOST the whole winter with a pump to move fuel around.  Leave the saddle tanks full for spring runs to a fuel dock...

I'd be curious to discuss heating/cooling option of any form.

Delaware Jim



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Fantasy
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Posted: February 15 2008 at 08:21 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Hi Jim,

I knew a liveaboard in NJ that rigged a dockside water pump that replaced his onboard pump.  He put the hose intake deep in the water where it was warmer.  Sounds crazy but it seemed to work for him.

It would be interesting to test how much warmer the water is deeper.  Maybe a weighted pool thermometer?

His regular pump was in the lazarette (where he tied it in) but you might be able to run the hose through the engine air intake and into the engine room.

John



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460 Chris Craft Constellation
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Delaware Jim
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Posted: February 15 2008 at 15:57 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

John,

NORMALLY, that might be a good idea to try to get to "warmer" water.  Where I am at (Inner Harbor East Marina), I have only 1' or so of water under us at low tide; there really isn't much more depth to get to.  The heat pumps have been working satisfactorily even when there is skim ice on the surface, so it is clear the water is warmer a few feet (~3 feet) deep at the intake. 

I think a few sunny days will warm the water up a degree or 2 and things will again be OK.  I was thinking about the "below average" winter and some long cold spells... what to do other than move South...   ;-)

 

Jim



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Fantasy
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Posted: February 15 2008 at 16:53 | IP Logged Quote Fantasy

Hey Jim,

I didn't want to mention it but moving south might be a cheaper and more pleasant alternative.

It's been cool, in the low 70's for the last few days but tomorrow we should be in the 80's.  Perfect one sheet sleeping weather during the nights:)  Gloat, gloat.

John



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460 Chris Craft Constellation
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Delaware Jim
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Posted: February 19 2008 at 13:30 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

John,

 

There ya go, rubbin' it in! ;).  BTW, It was 71 here in Baltimore for a few hours yesterday before a cold front came through and dropped it to 35 this AM...

Oh well, the temperature averages are on the way up!

Jim

 



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Pete37
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Posted: February 21 2008 at 15:53 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Iím down here in Delray Beach FL on vacation and havenít had much access to the internet.  But Iíve finally found a hookup.  I went to the Miami boat show last Thursday and looked for cranes to lift a dinghy onto my Connie.  My conclusion is that theyíre very expensive.

My logic is that if I have a small runabout on the boat I can make anchoring out a lot more interesting and thereby reduce the fuel I use in wandering about in the Connie.  Iíve had two inflatables mounted on the transom over the years and neither worked out very well.  They are easy on the Connieís hull and donít scratch it but they are very prone to damage and are constantly deflating requiring periodic re-inflation.  The first one got damaged and had to be trashed.  The second one survived but was so much trouble to launch that it never got used.  We finally sold the inflatable and replaced it with a small jet boat but found that mounting it on the transom was impractical.  Itís too heavy and dinghies mounted on the transom get covered with soot.  We will have to lift it all the way up and store it on the rear of the FB.  Years ago this job was done with a simple pipe davit but no one seems to make them anymore.   Now low profile davits (LPD) are used.  LPDs are certainly superior but they are also much more expensive.

Basically, I found three manufacturers of LPDs; Nautical Structures (888-541-6664), MarQuipt (954-957-8333) and Steelhead Marine (949-525-3049).  There are probably some manufacturers that I missed.  All made cranes in the 700-1000 lb range suitable for lifting a 700 lb. jet boat.  Nautical Structureís crane was about $8,000, MarQuiptís was $7,600 and Steelheadís was $5,300.  All seemed to be of about the same quality although Iím sure the manufacturers would dispute that.  The web site of Nautical Structures is www.nautical-structures.com , Marquipt has a site at www.marquipt.com and Steelhead has a site at www.steelheadmarine.net.

The disadvantages of mounting the dinghy on the FB are, of course, that you lose the space on the FB, the crane is expensive and retrieving a 700 lb hard sided dinghy in rough weather can be very dangerous.  The idea of a 700 lb. battering ram swinging from the end of a rope a foot or so away from the side of my boat while the boat is rolling in heavy seas sort of scares me.  This is probably the main reason people use inflatables as dinghies.  Is this problem enough of a danger to preclude mounting hard sided dinghies on the FB?  Iíve seen a number of Boston Whalers mounted on the FBs of Connies.

Perhaps some of you who have dinghies mounted on the FB can comment on their experiences.

Pete37



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Pete37
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Posted: February 21 2008 at 15:54 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Last week on my visit to the Miami Boat Show I couldnít resist the temptation to look at Hydraulically Lifted Swim Platforms (HLSP) as an alternative to mounting my dinghy on the FB.  Theyíre great but very expensive.

Basically, I found four manufacturers of HLSPs ; TNT Marine Enterprises, Inc. (954-563-5035), TNT Lift Systems (954-561-8083), Freedom Lift (772-223-1471) and Sea Lift (800-771-58044). There are probably some manufacturers that I missed.  All of the listed manufacturers made HSPDs suitable for lifting a 700 lb. jet boat.  TNT Marineís  HSPD was $20,000, TNT Lift Systemís was  about the same price (although I did not get a quote),  Freedom Lift also quoted $20,000 and Sea Lift quoted somewhere between $16,000 and $19,000 (depending on exact specs).  

There seems to be a legal dispute between TNT Marine Enterprises and TNT Lift Systems over name and/or patent infringement.  There wasnít enough technical data in any of the HLSP manufacturerís literature to tell which one was best.  All of the HLSPs except the Freedom Lift require a custom swim platform.  Whether a custom platform for the Connie was available seemed to be questionable.  The Freedom Lift supports the dinghy on a cradle aft of you existing swim platform so it should work on a Connie.  The cradle is removable.  Sea Lift was the least expensive HLSP and appeared to be adequate for a 700 lb. jet boat.

 TNT Liftís site is www.tntlifts.com, Freedom Liftís site is Nautical Structures is www.nautical-structures.com , MarQuipt has a site at www.marquipt.com and Steelhead has a site at www.steelheadmarine.net.

The main disadvantage of HLSPs is, of course, the cost.  In some cases the length added to the boat may be a problem.  On a Connie, soot on a swim platform mounted dinghy would also be a problem.  And I worry about the reliability of that much machinery mounted in an underwater location.  But your dinghy can be loaded in just about any kind of weather without damaging the mother ship and no FB space is lost.  The ease of launch is also a major factor. What is the point of having a dinghy and davit system if it so inconvenient to launch the dinghy that you never use it?  If cost were not a factor this is the type of dinghy launch system I would use on a Connie.

Pete37



Edited by Sonja Lowe on September 20 2013 at 17:02


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Pete37
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Posted: February 21 2008 at 16:17 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Jim,

What the dickens is a hydronic heating system? Sounds like something you would use in a greenhouse.

My experience with Connies is that it takes 4 to 5 of those 1500 watt oil filled heaters to keep a Connie warm in the winter.  That's 6000 to 7500 watts.  Get the conversion factor and you can get the BTU for the job.  With that many heaters going you're teetering on the brink of blowing a fuse.

Generally, it's very dangerous to use any open flame heater.  It sucks up all the oxygen in the air.  You need a heater which specifically isolates the air used to burn the fuel from the air in the cabin.  But they are expensive and hard to install.  Right now the worst of the winter is over.  In another two weeks things will begin to warm up.  It's really too late to start installing expensive heating systems for this winter.  Grit your teeth, wear warm clothing and use an electric blanket.  Then figure out what you are going to do to survive next winter during the summer.

I assume you have already closed off the den and forward cabins to conserve on heat.   We found that there was nothing  you could do to keep the upper salon warm in the winter.  Too much window area and air leaks.  Retreat to the lower salon.

Good luck,

Pete37



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Monopoly1954
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Posted: February 21 2008 at 16:45 | IP Logged Quote Monopoly1954

Hi Pete,

Been there ....done that... I had a 13' Boston Whaler on the rear of the Fly Bridge...


When I purchased my boat it had a crane and extension to the Fly Bridge for a dingy. I had the tube crane beefed up because I have the same thoughts of inflatables. When I was lifting the Whaler (950 lbs) the boat dipped to one side and the dingy was very hard to handle. I used it 6 or 8 times and then gave up on the idea. I sold the Whaler and will buy an inflatable this spring. I think the crane is rated for 600-900 and the whaler was just over the limit. Having the Whaler behind  the Fly bridge made the boat more top heavy  and impossible to back down from the bridge. even with the camera system  the line of vision is really blocked.

The added weight cause the boat to sit low in the stern and additional  trim was necessary from the tabs to run.

I looked into UMT in Florida also. They custom make them for  your application. I was at The TNT office and spent some time  with the owner. They had the best system  for  our boats. A problem with the the TNT installation  has to do with the change of swim platforms. Our Ladders connect to the platform. This has to change and you will not be able to board your boat from the platform if the dingy is on the platform.

This last point was the deciding factor. Anyone who plans to cruise needs sthe swim platform to board.

As to the money. TNT was 16-18 and UMT wanted 12 for a power lift and angling hoist for 1200 lbs.

I know one of the boat owners on the site purchased the boat in Florida with the TNT lift. I suspect you would be able to check the installation

Corey


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Delaware Jim
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Posted: February 21 2008 at 18:08 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

Pete, Corey et al

I bought the Connie in Florida that has a TNT hydraulic platform, installed by the prior owner.  It includes a new deeper platform (~2' deeper). and chocks for a hard bottom dink.  I have a 9'-6" inflatable dink on it now - I will be removing the chocks in the spring.  I particularly like the remote control I can use to drop the platform as I putt up to it ;-)  My dink is small enough there is plenty of space to use the platform for boarding.  A dink 11' or more may make things a bit tight for entry, but it should not eliminate that option. I do not know if the ladder was modified or replaced, but the base is attached to the stern.

Hydronic heat is simply a water based system for heating (hot water) or cooling (cold water) through radiators.  I concluded the high installation cost is not effective, even when compared to replacing all 5 existing reverse cycle units.

BTW,  I covered all the sliding windows with inside plastic film "storm windows" from the home center (cost $20) which have really made a big difference in comfort and cutting down heat loss.  I have one oil filled electric heater in the aft cabin where the reverse cycle AC is dead, and the lower salon unit and one of the upper salon unit has kept us nicely warm.  Two small heaters in the bilge to protect the plumbing is all needed...

Pete, Enjoy Florida!

Delaware Jim



Edited by Delaware Jim on February 23 2008 at 15:55


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diveryates
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Posted: February 21 2008 at 21:11 | IP Logged Quote diveryates

 

Re: davits:

The simple crane type to which you refer are eminently practicle and inexpensive. Correct installation is important. These things can be fabricated from scratch and they work on light RIBs best.



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David Ross
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Posted: February 23 2008 at 16:13 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

To Pete and all regarding davits and tenders,

Just wanted to pass on how I solved my dinghy storage problem on my 500. I did not want to store it on the transom/swim platform area, or take out seating on the flybridge (I have full factory optional seating side and aft) or use the bow area. I purchased a davit (Atkins & Hoyle #3000 with remote control) and installed it on the flybridge behind the aft seating in the port corner. I angled the aft seat slightly about two inches from the aft port (you cannot tell). The davit was mounted to the flybridge deck behind the seat and attached to the aft rail with a special mount. That eliminated a post going through to the aft deck or upper salon. I installed an enclosed 12 volt battery next to the davit behind the seat and a small Sears charger attached to the lid. I can plug that in the 110 volt outlet at the bar as neeeded. The davit and misc parts was about $3000. I installed it. The arm is one long straight piece without any support or cross pieces to get in the way and will accommodate the width of the dinghy and looks neat and is not very noticeable.

I have a Zodiac 340 (roll up, inflatible bottom, 11'4'',5 person) dinghy with a 9.9 hp Nissan (it will take a 15 hp).  The folded dinghy can be stored between the aft seat and the portside seat. I can store the motor on the starboard rail mount. The dinghy and motor are each under 68 lbs. Fully loaded the weight on the davit is under 160 lbs. It probably could support twice that. You can get other models that hold more weight and/or install it through the deck if you need more support. I use the BST 12HPP 12 volt pump inflater that does the job in a hurry and shuts off automatically at the selected pressure. I highly recommend this pump especially with the higher pressure needed for the rigid inflatible bottom. I attatch the 12 volt clips on the pump to the davit battery as needed.

I installed three boat trailer molded rubber "v" bow stops covered with carpet pieces to eliminate black marks on the dinghy. I pushed a stainlees steel pin through each mount with the ends extending 1" on each side and used stainless steel hose clamps to secure it to the flybridge rail; two on the aft rail for each of the Zodiac's inflated tubes and one for the bow on the rail that separates the bar from the rear seating. I secure the dinghy with qwick release straps. When the dinghy is in this craddle the motor sticks out over the flybride aft rail. It can easily be lowered with the remote control either aft (the davit arm is long enough to lower it over the swim platform) or portside. The dinghy can also be pulled all the way forward to the helm seats if desired and extra seating is not needed. The aft strata glass panels then can be rolled down (the flybridge is totally enclosed).  I can quickly move the dinghy to hang over the aft deck sidways (or totally lowered) while at the dock or anchored if we need all the fly bridge. Either inflated and in its craddle or rolled up I have lots of options. It works well for us.

Dave



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BAYSALOR
"Seaman"




Joined: December 08 2006
Posts: 39
Posted: February 27 2008 at 08:22 | IP Logged Quote BAYSALOR

Help!   With all the wind the past few days, I managed to shatter a
window in the master stateroom. Port side, in the closet, the front
one (there are 4 windows between the closet and the middle head).

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?

BTW, "Vintage Port" is STILL using the reverse cycle heaters! They
are cranking out enough heat that I could sell it to the neighbors

Vintage Port is moving to Baltimore March 29th - Baltimore Marine
Center. We need a new vista.

Ron and Lexi

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Furman1
"Deckhand"




Joined: November 27 2006
Posts: 227
Posted: February 27 2008 at 08:44 | IP Logged Quote Furman1

I had a upper salon window (port side) explode (it's tempered glass) a while back.  I had to take the window on the starboard side out and use as a pattern to have the window glass remade.  If you take it to a commercial glass company they should be able to make you a new one. Due to the boat settling a little I had them make mine a little shorter so it would be easier to get in and out.  Make sure to have them polish all the edges.

Furman



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Pete37
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Posts: 2317
Posted: March 03 2008 at 16:26 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi All,

Well Arlene & I got back from FL last Saturday and this is the first chance I've had to login.  We had to unpack and I had to pay all the accumulated bills.  We had a good time in FL but I'm glad to be back to my own house again.  Haven't been down to the boat yet.  Hope it's still afloat.

Activity on the site seems to have been a little slow (about 2 posts per day) but I guess that's to be expected in the winter.  Now it's March and time to start planning dewinterization.  Over the years I've found that here in MD. I can safely dewinterize about March 15th. The temp drops below freezing in the evening but we rarely get a cold stretch where it's below freezing for long enough to freeze up an engine.  In the remote possibility that it does get that cold I can always run down to the boat and turn on the heaters.

Furmin, of course, located in Georgia, probably never winterizied so he doesn't have to worry about dewinterization.  And, of course, you guys in New England, the Great Lakes and states like Montana won't be worrying about dewinterization for a couple of months yet.  But here in MD it's up to 62 degrees today and that's definitely outdoor working weather.

I've been lookin for ways to mount a dinghy on a Connie.  The most obvious is to put it on the back of the FB or on a shelf behind the FB.  But as Corey points out Boston Whalers on the FB just don't work out.  A 1000 lb. Whaler swinging from the end of a crane line can pound the piss out your boat if there is any wave action.  We have friends with a Connie with that arrangement in the marina but the Whaler never gets used.  As Corey found out it's just too dangerous to launch and retrieve it.  That's the same comment I've heard from Hatteras owners who have similar setups.

I believe Emory has the old "Merry Go Round" with an inflatable on a rack behind the FB.  I nearly bouught that boat when it was for sale at Wilkins in Annapolis.  That's a much better solution since the inflatable is much lighter and softer thereby drastically reducing the problems with damaging the mother ship.  But there is still a significant danger of damaging the inflatable itself.  I bought my last inflatable from a friend who had it mounted on the FB.  He complained that it was just too much trouble getting it down and back up (and he had an electric winch).  Therefore he rarely used it.  And of course a dinghy mounted there (hard or inflatable) as Corey mentions blocks your vision when backing to a slip.

If your'e starting from scratch, the crane will cost about $8,000 and the rack another couple thousand.  Installing the whole mess will probably be about $3,000 so the total cost would be at least $13,000.  That's getting up into the range of a hydraulically lifted swim platform (HLSP).  And I'm not enthralled with the appearance of that rig or the hole in the upper salon roof for the crane standpipe.  Plus, Arlene and I both hate inflatables.  Arlene doesn't trust them and dislike their fragility and short lifetime.  So for us, at least a dinghy mounted on the FB doesn't seem to be in the cards.

To be continued....

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on March 03 2008 at 16:47


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Ken27
"Deckhand"




Joined: December 12 2006
Posts: 138
Posted: March 03 2008 at 16:54 | IP Logged Quote Ken27

Greetings to everyone,

Welcome back Pete.  I know what you mean about getting back home.  It's great to get away but coming home is a joy in itself.

I'm looking for some advice again, from anyone and everyone.  We're getting close to finishing the restoration of The Good Life and will be heading south to parts unknown soon.  We will be traveling to areas with very weak or no cel coverage and are considering installing a cellular amplifier, specifically the one, the only one, West sells.  

OK, sorry about that.  I'm guessing there's a shorter version of that but I don't know what it is.  Read: Computer rookie!

Anyway, there's only one review on West's site and it wasn't very good.  Do any of you folks have any experience with this or any other unit?  I have found a few others but don't have a clue.

Thanks,

Ken

P.S.  Here in MN we usually start launching boats around the first of April.  The earliest I've been in is the last week of March.

 



Edited by Sonja Lowe on September 19 2013 at 14:18
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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: March 03 2008 at 17:35 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken,

Your link for the cellular amplifier worked fine even if it was rather long.  Frankly though if you are looking for long range, cellular isn't the answer even with an amplifier.  Cell is line-of-site.  Over the ocean it can be coaxed to work out to 50 miles if the cell tower is very high.  But inland the topograhy will interfere and I don't think you will get much improvement.  Five or ten miles is about all you will get in many locations. 

What you really need is a satellite phone.  In a satellite phone you are communicating with a satellite and range is almost unlimited.  Megayachts use these phones all the time but the drawback is that they are expensive.  I've seen articles on satellite phones but don't have any at hand right now.  I'll try to look up some articles and get back to you.

Pete37



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Pete37
"Commander"




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Posted: March 03 2008 at 17:45 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Ken,

Buying a satellite phone may be too expensive but you can rent one for as little as $34.95 per week with some air time included.  Just do a search for "satellite phones" and you'll get pages of satellite phone options.  Good luck.  I haven't forgotten about the manual.

Pete37



Edited by Pete37 on March 03 2008 at 17:47


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David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: March 03 2008 at 19:36 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Pete,

Did you see my post on how I have my dinghy and davit set up? If you are going to use an inflatible it works out well, at least it does for us.  If you are talking about a 13' foot Boston Whaler that's another story.  If you don't use the back area of the fly bridge I've seen some 500's that have cleared aft of the radar arch  to make room for a larger heavier dinghy. A couple looked well thought out and some a little make-shift.

Dave



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Banjoman
"First Mate"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 553
Posted: March 03 2008 at 20:34 | IP Logged Quote Banjoman

Pete - Regarding my dinghy setup; yes, mine is on the bridge but it is not an inflatable.  It is an 11' Whaler with a 30 hp Johnson.  And yes, we take it down and bring it up in as calm water as possible.  You do not want to use the crane to lift this dinghy in high wind or rough water.  But so far, we've managed pretty well and absolutely love the Whaler.  I've told some folks that the boat can go but I'm keeping my Whaler!  Ha!  Anyway, one of the issues is with the old style crane I have.  When you lift the dinghy the crane post is put in a bind and is very difficult to turn once the dinghy is up to bridge height.  I pull the crane ever year and clean the base or shaft area and grease it with a high quality, high temperature grease.  I've had the crane modified and now run the cable from the dinghy cross member back to the tip of the crane.  It comes up slower but the strain on the winch motor has been cut in near half.  I also moved the crane motor forward to keep the cable in a more straight line with the forward pulley.

It adds additional weight directly aft and I do use more trim.  With all this said, I enjoy the Whaler more than the Connie!  It's just a blast to run and play with. My wife would shoot me if I even thought about selling it.

 

 



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Delaware Jim
"Navigator"




Joined: December 27 2006
Posts: 381
Posted: March 03 2008 at 21:28 | IP Logged Quote Delaware Jim

Emory,

My hydraulic platform is set up now for an 11" Whaler - that's what I want, but gotta pay the tax man soon etc... I'll have to do with the inflatable and 4hp Merc - it beets rowing!

 

Jim



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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: March 04 2008 at 18:22 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Emory,

I had a 13'3" classic Whaler with a 40 Hp. Merc for 15 years until the covered roof in the marina collapsed in a heavy snowfall and destroyed it.  I loved it too.  But I didn't get much use out of it because I was never able to get a satisfactory way to carry it on the Connie.  We towed it sometimes but above 10 knots it was uncontrollable.

I even bought an old pipe davit which I was going to use to lift it up to a cradle on the FB.  But I had friends with Hats (and other boats) who told me that launching and retrieving a Whaler from the FB was just impractical.  So I never used the pipe davit.  Corey's recent comments on his Whaler setup problems sort of echo what my other friends said. 

If you have one of the old pipe davits the reason it doesn't want to rotate under load is probably that the aluminum outer pipe has galled to the inner pipe. That's very common in pipe davits.  If you don't fix the problem properly the davit will probably eventually seize permanently.  Grease doesn't always prevent this.

I think the best way to carry a Whaler is either a hydraulically lifted swim platfom or a transom davit.  But they are expensive and even these solutions leave the Whaler in the soot zone.

An 11' Whaler is much lighter than the 13'3" model so it's easier to handle but it just doesn't quite have the pazzazz of the 13 footer.

Pete37



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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: March 04 2008 at 18:47 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave,

Yes I saw your post and I'm considering it. I have an Atkins & Hoyle catalog.  In fact I have catalogs of just about every davit or crane on te market.  I'm going to get my A&H catalog out tonight and browse through it while I'm watching Charles Bronson's "Death Wish 3" and "Death Wish 4" movies.  Then I'll be able to comment more knowledgeably about your setup.  It sounds interesting but I've got to visualize it more thoroughly.

I'm sort of thinking about mounting a small jet ski on a cradle mounted to the swim platform and hoisting it into the water with a crane.  I saw an old two seater Bombadier Sea Doo XP Jet Pilot sitting in a parking lot which looked to be about the right size.  It's only 40" wide by 96" long by 32" high and weighs about 300#.  Anyone know where I can get one?

The A&H crane might work for this application.

Pete37



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Pete37
"Commander"




Joined: November 12 2006
Posts: 2317
Posted: March 05 2008 at 00:53 | IP Logged Quote Pete37

Hi Dave & Emory,

Dave: I looked up the Atkins & Hoyle davits and found that the Model 3000 would do the job very nicely if I can find a jet ski that weighs less than 300 lbs.  The Model 6000 which has about the same (but heavier) construction could be used for loads up to 600 lbs. so that gives me some leeway in finding a jet ski that is light enough to be lifted by the davit.

It's interesting.  Some manufacturers call their systems cranes and others call them davits.  My definition is that if the crane is used to lift a dinghy and then place it on a cradle (so the cradle supports the load) I call it a crane.  But if the crane lifts the dinghy and then supports the load on the end of the crane's cable I call it a davit.  Davits in general are less desirable because the dinghy tends to swing on the cable.  Supporting your dinghy on a cradle whenever possible and taking the load off the crane at all times except during the actual lift produces a much more reliable system.  A&H calls their cranes davits but I would be using them as a crane only.

I had looked at A&H cranes back in 1999 as a means of lifting my 13' Whaler aboard but rejected them because they were too light for the job.  But they might work fine for a 300-600 lb. load.  The price then for a Model 3000 was $1950.  Apparently they have, like everything else, become more expensive.

Since I would be mounting the jet ski on the swim platform the crane could be mounted directly to the swim platform and braced by a bracket attached to the transom.  The lift would only have to be about 24" so the jet ski should be very easy to launch and retrieve in almost any kind of weather.The only problem I see is that the jet ski would definitely be in the soot zone and would have to be protected by a canvas cover. A load of 300-400 lbs. on the swim platform shouldn't have much affect on a Connie's trim.

Emory:  In looking for my davit data I found an old 2003 picture of your boat's davit system with the 11' Whaler aboard.  She was named "Merry Go Round" then.

Pete37



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Banjoman
"First Mate"




Joined: July 02 2007
Posts: 553
Posted: March 05 2008 at 08:15 | IP Logged Quote Banjoman

Pete - I bought her from that owner (Merry-Go-Round).  She was on the Pautuxent at the time.  I forget his name, but he was a pilot for United and was retiring to Florida and the boat was too big to put on the channel behind his house.  He had let her go down significantly asthetically speaking (and some mechanical too as I later found out $$$)  Oh well, I still got a good buy on her.

As for the crane, there have been many times when I wish it was more automated than it is, mainly powered in its side-to-side movement.  Trying to swing the Whaler is/was hard on the back.  I've learned a few tricks-of-the-trade with experience.  No matter what, its a two person job. 



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David Ross
"Navigator"




Joined: January 02 2007
Posts: 452
Posted: March 05 2008 at 16:46 | IP Logged Quote David Ross

Pete and all,

In my post regarding the Atkins & Hoyle crane model # 3000 I stated that it cost about $3000 with the various parts I used. It should have read $2000. Pete it sounds like you are getting a plan.

Jim: If you are reading this, just wondered if you are coming back to the Sassafras, staying in Baltimore or going elsewhere?

Emory: I think it was you that said you were having your boat's injectors and engines checked over. Who are you using?

Think spring everyone!

Dave

 



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