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mtstorey "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: July 01 2005 Posts: 9
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| Posted: September 06 2006 at 16:03 | IP Logged
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I have a 1979 Viking 43' aft cabin. The port side water tank has a leak in the bottom aft corner. It is in a place that I cannot get to without major engine parts removal. Tank removal would require partial removal of the salon floor. I think I can cut an inspection hole near the top of the tank that is large enough for me to clean and paint some type of waterproofing on the inside. I have been unable to locate any acceptable waterproofing that is safe for potable water. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks
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jk31668 "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: May 11 2004 Posts: 4
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| Posted: September 12 2006 at 19:19 | IP Logged
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i once had a small weeping leak in the water tank and used an epoxy ribbon strip that you rub together and then apply. it worked for 5 years at least.
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mtstorey "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: July 01 2005 Posts: 9
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| Posted: September 13 2006 at 17:34 | IP Logged
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Thanks - I had initially thought I could paint something on the inside that was thick enough and flexible that would last. Someone else also suggested epoxy/fiberglass patch. Unless someone comes up with a suggestion of something safe I can paint on, I will go with epoxy.
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gwalters "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: May 13 2007 Posts: 1
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| Posted: May 13 2007 at 07:35 | IP Logged
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I am looking to purchase a 43ft aft cabin Viking. Could someone comment on the boat, what problems I should look for, is it a good boat etc. Thanks
__________________ george
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mtstorey "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: July 01 2005 Posts: 9
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| Posted: May 13 2007 at 13:14 | IP Logged
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George - Re your question about the Viking 43 Aft Cabin. This summer will be the 5th season we have owned our 1979. We have worked up through several boats -- 28' Baltic Express. 34' Chris Craft Express. 36' Trojan Tri-Cabin, then our current 43' Viking Aft Cabin. We have been very pleased with the 43. It handles well in all kinds of seas although in the 12-14 knot speeds, you have to keep up with the steering if the waves are at an angle or a following sea. If you move up to 15-16 knots, it becomes very steady. I think the rudders may be a bit small for the slower speeds. We have DD 671N's at 310 Hp each. With that power, the boat will do a comfortable 15 knot cruise but will cruise at 17-18 knots if you want to push it. It tops out at 21 knots. (All these speeds are measured by GPS) Quality of the boat is great. There are a few hairline cracks in the gellcoat that I am repairing but nothing major. The only problem I have had is the leaking water tank on the stbd side. If you want to go into more detail, let me know and we can discuss off-line. Marv
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Rhomer "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: May 16 2007 Posts: 2
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| Posted: May 16 2007 at 21:55 | IP Logged
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I also have a 43 1979 DCMY with 6-71Ns. I have had it for 2 years with pretty good overall luck. There are a number of hull blisters, but I don't know how much they have changed since I have had the boat, which has now been in S. FL waters for a number of years. I suspect that I may also have slow leak in my water tanks, or somewhere in the system. I recently had to have my companion chair rebolted in on the bridge as there may have been some rot in the vicinity of the screw holes. I have also had some problem with the aft bildge pump which is easily accessed (diaphragm pump), but the intake hose seems to run under the aft fuel tank with no access. Few water leaks in the main salon and aft ports which were repaired. Other than this just routine maintenance which is not specific to this boat model. I do wish there was a larger fuel capacity for some cruising I would eventually like to do, and I am interested in finding out what sort of fuel consumption data others have. I am also interested in adding a washer and dryer, and wonder the best way to do this.
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mtstorey "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: July 01 2005 Posts: 9
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| Posted: May 19 2007 at 00:02 | IP Logged
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Rhomer - Interesting you should mention hull blisters. I had the bottom on my 43 reworked 2 years ago. It had tiny BB-sized blisters in the gelcoat (none in the fiberglass) over the entire bottom area that was under water. I didn't blame Viking. What I think happened was that the previous owner had the bottom barrier coated just prior to our purchase. They didn't dry out the bottom beforehand so water that had been absorbed by the fiberglass through the gelcoat was trapped inside the barrier coat. This caused the gelcoat to blister. I had the gelcoat removed then recoated with the recommended thickness of a couple types of epoxy barrier coat to replace the gelcoat. I left the boat out of the water to dry for almost 1 year measuring the water content of the hull with a moisture meter. Regarding your aft bilge pump. Mine is similar; however, the hose to the pickup shoe runs down almost at the transom near the stbd rudder post. You can see it by looking down aft of the fuel tank. My fuel consumption runs about 22 gph at 2150 rpm with a cruise speed of 17 knots. Top rpm is 2500 and 20 knots. I run 3-blade props keeping my 4-blades as spares because I get an extra knot or two with the 3-blades.
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mtstorey "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: July 01 2005 Posts: 9
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| Posted: January 28 2008 at 14:31 | IP Logged
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This is a follow up on my water tank leaking problem. I ended up cutting 3 inspection holes approximately 6" x 8" in size into the upper half of the side of the tank. There were 2 baffles in the tank I had to miss thus requiring the 3 holes to allow access to the entire bottom of the tank. I found a number of corrison pin-holes in the bottom of the tank which kind of surprised me because the tank is at least 1/8" thick aluminum. It looked like they may have been caused by calcium deposits lying on the bottom.
My repair was to clean the bottom of the inside of the tank then apply a thick layer of West System epoxy resin mixed with their High Density Filler to give it strength but still have some flexibility. I made the mix thick enough so it would not run on the verticle sides. I covered the entire bottom and up the sides a couple of inches.
I used the cut-out pieces of the inspection holes to patch the 6" x 8" holes. I first applied a layer of fiberglass cloth to the back side of each of the cut-outs providing for a 1-1/2" lip. I used the West System epoxy resin. Once dry, I turned the pieces over and epoxy-glued a temporary handle to the center of each. This was so I would have something to hold the patch with while epoxying it into place. I then coated the inside lip of the hole and the lip of the patch with epoxy and filler mix. I inserted the patch into place (with the lip on the inside) then using the handle to hold it in place used some string to pull the patch tight against the inside of the tank. Once dry, I broke the temporary handle off and applied a layer of fiberglas cloth on the outside of the patch again having about 1-1/2" lip. I covered that with aluminum colored paint. It's hard to see there were ever any holes cut into the tank. So far, no further leakage.
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Rhomer "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: May 16 2007 Posts: 2
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| Posted: July 26 2009 at 04:42 | IP Logged
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My boat still runs great. The only problem outside of routine maintenance remains a leak in the water system somewhere. I have found my performance similar to what mtstorey gets, however I think I get about 2/3 nautical mile to the gallon at about 16 knots (about 2100 rpm) in less than ideal conditions. Cruising at 7-8 knots I get about 1.5 miles on the gallon, although I never cruise at one speed for long enough to really figure this out. I believe that a 6-7 knots I would get significantly better milage as the boat seems to be pushing a lot less water. I also have 3 bladed props. I only get about 2400 rpm max and have considered decreasing the pitch on the props.
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Viking76 "Seaman Recruit"

Joined: April 13 2005 Posts: 4
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| Posted: March 16 2010 at 18:22 | IP Logged
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Had leaking water tanks (2) in my 35. Multiple pin holes in the bottoms. Replaced them with plastic tanks 35 gallons each vs original 40 each. Not worth welding in new bottoms or epoxy work. Tight squeezing them out & in and some minor plumbing work but worth the effort.
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