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Part II: Trailer Maintenance
Three things dictate how often a trailer needs to be inspected: where it is used; how often it is used; and how hard it is used. A fourth consideration, just to complicate the discussion, might be the quality of the trailer itself. As a bare-bones minimum, any trailer should be thoroughly inspected at the start of each boating season.
Even if the trailer isn’t used regularly, an annual inspection and any subsequent maintenance will
protect its value. If a trailer is going to be used
frequently, will be dunked in saltwater, and will spend many hours traveling over bumpy roads, you’ll want to inspect key components much more often. Here are a few tips and suggestions:
The Frame and Axle
Submersible trailers have the advantage of being
easier to use, at least for beginners, but they have the disadvantage of requiring more upkeep, especially
when the trailer is used in saltwater. Any light rust on
the trailer’s frame should be sanded and painted. The sooner the better. If a structural component appears to be badly rusted, the trailer shouldn’t be used until it is examined by an expert or the component is replaced.
To prevent rust, even a trailer with a galvanized frame should be rinsed thoroughly when the trailer has been dunked in saltwater.
Trailers tend to get bounced around a lot, and any
loose nuts on the frame must be tightened. If you aren’t familiar with your trailer, structural components should be inspected frequently until you’re confident that none are prone to loosening. Even the tightest trailer should be examined routinely on long trips.
Trailer Brakes
Surge brakes must be adjusted periodically. You’ll
have to jack the wheel off of the ground and then use
a tire tool to first tighten the adjustment cog all of the
way until the wheel won’t turn and then back it off a few
turns until the wheel again turns freely. If you do the job yourself, follow manufacturer’s recommendations. |
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Trailer Tires
A blown tire can be more than just an inconvenience. According to the BoatU.S. Marine Insurance claim files, neglecting tires is one of the most frequent causes of trailer failure--broken axles and even spilled boats. Treads should be examined whenever the trailer will be used, but keep in mind that trailer tires sometimes need replacing long before the treads wear out. Spider-web cracks on the sidewall are an indication that the tire is rotten and can't be relied on to carry heavy loads. While you're examining the sidewalls, take a look at the wheel to make sure they're tight.
Sidewalls contain another useful bit of information: the max load limits for the tires. If there are two tires rated for 500 pounds each, then the total weight on the trailer--the boat and gear--should be no more than 1,000 pounds.
Trailer tires frequently suffer from under inflation and should be checked whenever the trailer is used. Recommended inflation pressures are stamped on the sidewalls. Monitoring inflation pressure (when tires are cool) is especially important on trailer tires, which are typically smaller and work harder than automobile tires. An under-inflated tire builds up heat quickly, which can cause the layers inside --called plies--to delaminate. Repair or replace a tire with a slow leak. Never mix tires--bias plies and radials. Use tires built specifically for use on trailers, which have thicker sidewalls.
Trailer tires deteriorate in sunlight and can have their useful life extended by taking them off the trailer and storing them in the garage (put blocks under the trailer frame) whenever the trailer will be idle for extended periods. Removing the tires also discourages theft. If removing the tires isn’t possible, wrap them in plastic trash bags to protect the sidewalls from sunlight.
Trailer tires frequently suffer from under inflation and should be checked whenever the trailer is used. |
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Spare Tires, Hassles, and Highway Theft
Considering what is at stake, it is surprising how many skippers do not carry a spare tire for their trailers. Trying to find someone who can fix (or replace) a blown trailer tire can be a hassle, to say the least, but there is also a considerable risk that while you’re searching for a gas station someone will steal the boat. A boater in Connecticut, to use one example, left his trailer on the side of a busy highway for less than a half-hour while he went to get the tire repaired. When he got back, the boat and trailer were gone. Another boater, this one in Texas, left his boat and trailer to get a tire repaired and returned sometime later to find that his outboard was missing. After leaving briefly to report the theft to police, he returned to find that the boat and trailer (and his
luggage) had disappeared.
Boats on trailers are an easy target for thieves, especially when they’re sitting alone on the side of a busy highway. Learn from the mistakes of others: carry a spare tire for your trailer! A U-bolt can be used to attach the spare directly to the trailer frame. Note: A typical car jack will not work on a trailer, so you'll need to get a scissors jack that is large enough to handle the load.
Hubs and Bearings
If your hubs don’t have bearing protectors, it is best to keep them out of the water. If you must dunk the hubs, allow time for them to cool or cold water will be drawn inside, displacing the grease and causing the bearings to corrode and fail. Bearings that have been accidentally submerged in saltwater should be cleaned with kerosene and then butyl alcohol before being repacked with grease. Use something like a tongue depressor to distribute the grease evenly to both front and rear bearings (don’t over-pack). With most hubs, seals must be replaced whenever they’re removed for packing.
Most new trailers, fortunately, have bearing protectors, which are metal caps with springs that hold grease under pressure. These protectors eliminate water penetration into the hub, not to mention a lot of grubby work. If your trailer doesn’t have protectors, they can be and should be added to the hub. They’re easy to install and are relatively inexpensive.
With protectors, a squirt or two of grease at a fitting
is all that is required to protect bearings. Press the protector at the edge; if it moves it doesn’t need grease. If it is rigid, you’ll need to add grease (use only a grease recommended for trailer bearings). Even with protectors, it is a good idea to carry extra bearings on a long trip.
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Lights and Electrical
Boat trailers are required to have lights, but not all trailer lights are waterproof. Some trailer lights aren’t meant to be immersed in water and should be removed before launching. Even if you have sealed trailer lights, don't let the connector plug to the car get dunked, especially when it's still connected. Only stranded copper wire, which is flexible and break resistant, should be used on a trailer. Exposed wire should be secured every 18" to prevent chafing. The entire system should be inspected twice a year for bare or chafed wires and all of the contacts given a protective dab of grease. Finally, it's a good idea to always carry spare bulbs and fuses.
Rollers
Rollers that are damaged should be replaced. The yellow or clear "poly" rollers, incidentally, last considerably longer than their rubber counterparts, which deteriorate in sunlight.
Winch
In general, your winch should be rated to pull at least
half the combined weight of your boat, motor and gear. Check your winch regularly for loose mounting bolts
and any loose internal parts. If you use an electric winch, check that the power cord is in good shape and there is no corrosion on the wire--you might over heat the winch
if the electricity supply isn't 100%. Make sure your winch line doesn't rub up against anything while loading and unloading the boat. Check the line frequently for wear
or fraying. Even a slight amount of wear can significantly reduce the weight carrying ability of the strap.
Note: Winches are designed for one thing: loading and unloading your boat. They are NOT designed to hold your boat on the trailer when you are going down the road. Make sure you use other methods of securing your boat to the trailer!
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