A Shotgun Marriage? Ethanol and Old Outboard Boat Engines
ALEXANDRIA,
VA, March 28, 2012 - Ever since E10 gasoline (gas containing 10% ethanol)
became widely available several years ago, the nation’s largest
recreational boat owners group, BoatUS, has received hundreds of calls
and emails complaining about boat engine problems. The majority of
complaints concern older outboard motors, those made before about
1990. BoatUS’
Seaworthy magazine asked Mercury
Marine's Ed Alyanak and Frank Kelley, who between them have over
60 years of experience, to find out what’s made these decades-old
outboards more susceptible to ethanol’s well-known problems
and what owners can do.
1. Vulnerable hoses: In the mid 1980’s new
standards (SAE J1527) for fuel hoses were developed for “gasohol,”
which was known to deteriorate rubber and plastics. Since then, problems
with hoses have largely gone away, but that doesn’t mean they
are maintenance free.
Tech Tip: Any hose older than 10 years should be replaced. Here’s
another way to test rubber fuel hose condition: wipe a clean rag along
the hose. If you smell gas on the rag, replace the hose immediately.
2. Carburetors: O-rings and rubber carburetor parts
on older engines tend to get hard and brittle when exposed to ethanol
and then break off in bits and pieces causing clogs, misfires and
shutdowns. Pre-1990 carburetors were also made from alloys that didn’t
stand up to ethanol, leading to corrosion that can cause tiny fuel
orifices to clog, resulting in hard starts and poor running. Old carbs
are also “dumb” in that they were designed to run on only
one type of fuel. Ethanol, however, has more oxygen and affects the
air/fuel ratio, causing engines to run leaner and hotter.
Tech Tip: The best solution with old outboards is to run straight
gas – if you can find it. Some mechanics may also have the ability
to “recalibrate” a carburetor to tolerate E10 (note: gas
with ethanol greater than 10% should never be used with any boat engine).
3. Plastic fuel filter bowl: Some older engines may
have plastic fuel filter bowls.
Tech Tip: If you still have one, replace immediately with a metal
bowl.
4. Fuel fill gasket: Keeping water
out of the fuel tank is even more important with ethanol as it can
eventually lead to the formation of two separate solutions in the
gas tank (water and fuel), also known as phase separation. The process
is more common on older boats which are more likely to have accumulated
water at the bottom of the tank. Once phase separation happens –
the tipping point when water in the gas is either harmlessly ingested
or transformed into a corrosive mixture no engine will run on –
there’s no going back. No fuel additive can restore E10 back
to its normal state.
Tech Tip: Age and exposure to ethanol can rot fill gaskets or O-rings.
Replace them every few years.
5. “Gunk” in the tank: It is still possible
that some old outboards and boat fuel systems have yet to sip a drop
of E10. But once your boat drinks its first tankful, ethanol will
“scour” or dissolve the gunk that’s been coating
the tank walls (and hoses) for years.
Tech tip: You may want to think about hiring a professional to have
the tank drained completely of any gas and water at the bottom before
adding your first load of E10. If not, keep a supply of filters on
hand – they will clog quickly. Always use a fuel stabilizer
and avoid using octane boosters that contain ethanol.
For more information on ethanol and boat engines, go to http://www.BoatUS.com/seaworthy/ethanol.asp.
