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- Learning When things Aren't Working - Kurt Dove
- Fall Fishing Patterns - Mike Iaconelli
- Fishing Unfamiliar Water - Ken Cook
- Smallmouth Bass Fishing: A Fiesty Bite
- Hot Weather Bass Fishing
- 3 Bass Rigs You Really Ought to Learn - Roger Lee Brown
- Fishing Walleyes - Mepps Lures
- Bass Fishing in Cold Weather - Steve Chaconas
- Tweaking a Pop-r - Rob Brewer
- Catch and Release Tips
- Fluorescent Line Applications - Mark Hicks
Learning
When Things Aren't Working
by Kurt
Dove, BoatUS ANGLER Pro Staff
These
last few weeks I have been fishing some tournaments up North in Ohio and
New York. It is the first time I have been able to do some serious smallmouth
fishing since I moved from VA to TX in 2008. Yes, we do have smallies
at Lake Amistad but they are few and far between and are nowhere near
the size of these Great Lakes smallies. So far it has been a successful
trip. I finished 5th in the BASS Northern Open in OH on Lake Erie and
5th in the FLW/BFL Super Tournament in NY on Lake Ontario. A huge part
of my success these last couple weeks has come from experiences in the
past when I didn’t catch fish. That’s right, I have learned
a lot about fishing when I wasn’t catching them and I am learning
how to make those experiences vital in my fishing success.
Here is how I managed to do that in these situations. This was my first experience at Lake Erie on the western basin. I have fished out of Buffalo, NY on the eastern basin a few times in the past and I learned that on the eastern basin the little rocky drops are the biggest keys to catching the bigger fish. I learned previously that it is really small isolated rock around larger rocky reefs that are the keys to locating the really big fish, essentially finding the ‘spot on the spot’.
Sure I had cashed a few checks in the past and even caught a 20+lb bag, but it was the consistency that I needed to place higher in the multi-day events. At the BASS Open in Ohio my whole strategy was to find 3-4 areas of places where fish were holding, but then really dissect these areas with my electronics to find the little key areas that held the bigger fish. I managed to find 4 large areas that were holding fish and then I located 3 areas that were the ‘spot on the spot’ and that is how I rode out a 5th place finish at the Open.
This past weekend at Lake Ontario, I finished 5th in the FLW/BFL Super Tournament. It was an experience I had here in 2008 at an EverStart event that I learned when things weren’t working. I had been in the top 10 after two days and was really hammering the big smallies in shallow water on reaction baits. Then Day 3 I could not get a bite up shallow and I went running around the lake just moving everywhere to try and locate some active shallow fish. It never worked and I weighed 8lbs that day and drop down into 30 ‘something’ place to finish the event.
After learning more about smallmouth habits and how they relate to their environment through watching and listening to any information I could get, I think I figured out what I did wrong back in 2008 based on what I learned when things weren’t working. Instead of moving to try and locate more fish shallow or active shallow fish I now know those fish are still catchable if you just stay locked down on the area you found them. The change I have learned to make is slow down.
Even though smallies are very active and like to eat reaction lures while they are up on shallow cover and structure, there are days when there mood dictates a different presentation. This past week when I located some shallow fish on Lake Ontario with reaction baits I was stoked. When I found the going tough the first morning of the tournament, instead of making the same mistake twice and running around trying to find active fish, I hunkered down and managed to grind out two 21+lb smallmouth bags to finish 5th place. Both of these success stories came from learning when things weren’t working. I hope you do too!
Fall
Fishing Patterns
by Mike Iaconelli, courtesy of National
Hunting & Fishing Day website
A big part of locating bass on any body of water is identifying which
seasonal pattern the fish are in and having an idea about how fish
behave during this pattern. These patterns can vary from place and
depend a lot on latitude. Just because it's technically fall on
the calendar, it can still be 80-90 degrees in parts of the south.
Just the same, it can still be officially summer in Minnesota and
still get pretty chilly. Fish weather and fisherman weather aren't
always the same, so just monitor the water temperature if you're
uncertain about which pattern the fish will be in.
But since it's now officially fall, I want to talk about fishing
for fall bass. I break this pattern into two: early fall and fall
transition. Fishing in this part of the year can prove challenging
but it's not impossible.
In early fall, bass get a sense that winter is coming because the
water temperature is beginning to cool from what is has been throughout
the summer. Since they instinctively sense that winter is on its
way, they begin to feed pretty heavily on the baitfish that are
moving into shallow water. Most people think that if the fish are
really chowing down then the fishing will be easy. Wrong. They aren't
just eating anything, they are keying on a certain kind of bait.
Because they are keying on certain bait (shad, crawfish, etc.),
it is extremely important that you match the hatch. It's a big thing
especially for fly fisherman, but bass fisherman should apply it,
too. Whether it's baby bluegill, crawfish, dragonflies or anything
else, I need to know so I carefully examine every fish that I catch
by looking down their gullets or carefully feeling their belly to
try to determine what they've been munching on. If the belly is
squishy, they've probably been eating soft bait fish like minnows
or shad; if it feels crunchy then there's probably a crawfish shell
in there that hasn't been digested. An object turning end over end
is most likely the spine of a bluegill.
During this early fall time, I like to hit creeks and pockets with
drains or any place that has an influx of freshwater water because
it will draw in more of the baitfish that the bass are eating. I
might throw a Berkley Power Tube or Power Craw in these areas, Texas
rigging them and keeping them close to the bottom. But as good as
these areas can be, don't overlook the backsides of windswept points.
During this time of the year, bass love to get behind these points
and face into the wind and ambush and kind of baitfish that get
pushed towards the banks by the current. A Berkley Frenzy Diver
in whatever color or pattern that coincides with what their eating
can very effective. The point is that fishing the early fall requires
moving around a lot and trying to find these areas where the fish
are feeding.
Later fall will find the bass heading back towards wintering areas
so focusing on isolated points or cover near vertical breaks is
a great place to start looking for these fish. These later-season
fish will also be a little easier to catch, so don't let the cooling
weather keep you off the water.
But it's the early fall where you might need a light jacket in the
morning and an air conditioner in the afternoon that provides some
challenging fishing with the possibility for some hefty fish. All
it takes is a little detective work to match the hatch and the ability
to determine the seasonal pattern and you will be well on your way.
Berkley Pro Staffer Mike Iaconelli is the 2006 BASS Angler of
the Year and the 2003 Bassmaster Classic champion.
Fishing
Unfamiliar Water
by Ken Cook, courtesy of National
Hunting & Fishing Day website
Bass tournament season will shift into high gear once again next
month when the Bassmaster Classic kicks off at Lake Tohopekaliga
in Florida. Toho, as it's known to many of us, is a great fishery
that most pros have quite a bit of experience fishing. Rare is it
in this day that pros get a chance to wet a line in a body of water
that they have never fished before, though that could change with
the tournament stop at Lake Amistad on the Texas-Mexico border.
Many of the pros have never ventured into this deep, steep-banked
impoundment that is known to have some very big fish and are now
in the same position many of you find yourselves in on a regular
basis: on the verge of fishing a lake that they know nothing about.
Hiring a guide is not an option come tournament time, and the same
bodes true for a lot of people whose budget just doesn't allow for
the added expense. Left to fend for yourself, there's a few tried-and-true
tricks that can make your first trip to a lake more successful and
efficient.
First of all, get a good map of the lake. There are even lake maps
on CD that you can use on your computer. Even an old map from the
local marina can be a good start. Lake maps can help you locate
some general fishing areas, as well as advising you of potentially
dangerous rock bars and stump fields. Also, scour the Internet:
there's sure to be a message board for the area you
are going to fish where locals and out-of-towners alike will be
posting where and what they're biting. And don't be afraid to ask
other people at the marina and boat ramp.
If you are like me and bass is the species you are after, the first
place that I always look is the classic spots. Deep, rocky points,
humps and bars will probably have a resident population of ready-to-eat
fish. If you can find some trees that have fallen into water that's
deeper than five feet, there's a good chance that the area is holding
fish - especially if the area offers quick and easy access for the
fish to reach deep water.
Once you've found your area, set some limits for yourself. Even
if you think the fishing might be better 30 miles away, limit yourself
to the reasonably sized area that offers the characteristics you
are looking for. It is much easier to manage your fishing in a pond-sized
area than if you are trying to cover 50,000 acres of lake.
If your chosen spot has some weedbeds that grow below the surface,
start with a spinnerbait or buzzbait on some medium heavy tackle.
By doing this, you are trying to entice those fish that hang out
on the edges of the vegetation to feed. If the weedbeds are deeper,
try a shallow-running crankbait like a Berkley Frenzy. These baits,
in addition to enticing strikes, allow you to cover a lot of area
quickly to determine the presence and behavior of the fish. If you
find an area with more trees and stumps than vegetation and the
bass aren't responding to the quickly retrieved buzz,
spinner and crankbaits, slow down your presentation with a jig and
trailer or a Texas-rigged soft plastic like Berkley PowerBait. And
don't give up on a bait too quickly, otherwise you
will set yourself into a pattern of switching rigs every other cast.
Just like running to different spots on the lake every 15 minutes,
that makes for a frustrating day on the water.
Being able to size up a body of water in a short amount of time
under varied conditions is what makes or breaks a professional angler.
It takes practice and patience, so don't expect to
fill your livewell with a bushel basket full of 8- and 10-pounders
the first time out. But if you pay attention and take the time to
record some simple notes for yourself, your next trips are bound
to be even better.
-Ken Cook is the 1991 Bassmaster Classic
winner and a 14-time Classic qualifier. A former fisheries biologist,
Cook lives on his ranch in Meers, Okla.
Smallmouth
Bass Fishing: A Fiesty Bite
by Adam Pearson, courtesy of newsreview.info
When
the bite is slow in the Umpqua River for salmon and steelhead and
the dog days of summer have settled in, smallmouth bass awaken like
little rabid beasts.
Meaning, well, they'll attack just about anything that moves - or
smells.
"They like to ambush stuff," said Gary Lewis, a Roseburg-based fishing
guide, who takes clients angling for smallmouth bass during the
months of July and August. "And they bite all day."
When the mainstem Umpqua River warms to about 60 degrees - it's
above 70 degrees now - Lewis said the smallmouth bass come alive.
And they stay that way until the river cools in September and the
action returns to chinook salmon and steelhead.
Success in landing those prized fish, however, takes hours of patience
and seasons of knowledge. But fishing for smallmouth bass requires,
at the very least, a basic understanding of how to set the hook
and crank a reel. Which makes it an easy introduction to angling
on the Umpqua River for youngsters and newcomers in the region.
People catch a lot of fish and have a lot of fun," Lewis said.
Smallmouth bass bite everything from nightcrawlers to Rapala lures,
but Lewis' favorite setup - for novice fishermen - is a plastic
worm on a lead-head jig with a squirt of Smelly Jelly for extra
attraction.
Once you're set, the technique is not too complicated. Just make
sure you're fishing over a gravel bottom, and not sand, because
smallmouth bass prefer structure. Then drop the worm to the bottom
- as if a cork is tied up top - and wait for a bite. It shouldn't
take long.
"It's a pretty competitive world down there," Lewis said.
Once a fish is hooked, from a boat, other smallmouth bass can be
seen trying to steal the plastic worm out of its mouth. But fishing
for the little green-sided monsters doesn't require a watercraft.
"This whole river is full of bass," said Rod Antilla, who ups the
ante when fishing for smallmouth bass by using a fly rod. "I don't
think there's a place where you won't catch them."
Last week, Antilla was fishing the Umpqua River with a friend near
Cleveland Rapids, a couple of miles downstream from River Forks
Park. He was joined by Linda Walker, who is learning how to fly
fish this summer. The two anglers had their personal pontoon boats
docked on the bank while they casted flies from a ledge.
"It's neat to see the fish go after the fly you tied," Walker said,
about an hour after her morning start and already with a couple
of fish to her credit. "It's all a good time."
Though fishermen can keep up to 10 smallmouth bass of any size,
Lewis, Antilla and Walker are strict practitioners of catch-and-release.
Even when he's guiding, Lewis urges clients to release fish.
"If they catch a real big one, I don't like them to keep them because
they're the nice, big broodstock, the ones that's going to re-supply
the river," he said.
A picture in that case, he said, will suffice. Smallmouth bass, Lewis
said, can get up to four pounds. However, there's a lot of small, smallmouth
bass to be caught while angling for the big one, even if you're using
artificial lures.
"Usually, if you're going to keep them to eat, we like them about
10 to 11 inches long," Lewis said. "That way there's enough there
to eat."
A retired maintenance watchman for the Douglas County Fairgrounds, Lewis
has been guiding for salmon, steelhead and smallmouth bass since 1980
on the Umpqua River. He guides clients on about 200 trips a year. His
business, Gary's Guide Service, has been featured in several magazines
and in the past few years on TV programs such as American Outdoorsman
and Fly Fishing America on ESPN. His clients come from all over the country
and the world.
"I get people from Alaska, that come down here and fish for smallmouth
bass," he said, explaining they like the experience of catching
something other than salmon - and not having to deal with mosquitoes
and inclimate weather.
For a full day on the river with Lewis - at $175 per person - it would
be hard not to catch at least 50 smallmouth bass, or beyond 70. Lewis
said it took years to build a dependable clientele for his business. But
each day on the river makes it all worth it.
"It's always better than working," he said.
Hot
Weather Bass Fishing
by Ed Harp, courtesy of The
Fishing Wire by Berkley
Flippin' and pitchin' heavy vegetation is an often overlooked
tactic for hot weather largemouths. The heat of summer can bring some of the toughest bass
fishing of the year. But, according to many experts, much of that toughness
is caused by anglers themselves. That's because far too many believe that
all the bass are deep. They aren't. Many fish, in some cases the biggest
ones, head for the heavy weeds and vegetative growth of July, August and
September. Such places offer high dissolved oxygen levels, shade and protection
from the sun. At the same time they are darn near perfect for ambushing
prey. That's all a bass needs to be happy.
Fishing vegetation can be tough, however. To do it effectively
we need a plan. A day on the water observing professional angler Kevin
Wirth fish lily pad fields helps us develop such a plan.
"That's the thing most anglers miss, the pattern within
the pattern," says Wirth as he lips his fish and heads towards the livewell.
It's a respectable 4-pound largemouth that fell for a plastic bait tossed
precisely to the base of one lily pad among a field of thousands.
When asked to explain the pattern within the pattern
he quickly points out that all the pads don't hold fish. And even if they
did he couldn't fish them all effectively. The Southern impoundment he's
fishing this day is full of pads, tens of thousands of them.
"You notice I'm fishing only the pads on the end of
the points (made by the pads) and further refining my pattern by only
fishing those with big, thick stems. That's where the big ones are holding."
Wirth goes on to explain that big, mean bass are much
like rich humans. They claim the best neighborhoods. In this case, the
best neighborhood was under the huge, thick root of the lily pad with
the biggest stem growing on the end of the point.
In Midwestern impoundments look for a spot where brown
meets green, mostly that'll be wood, drift, laydowns, stumps, near weeds.
Old wood and thick, mossy weeds are usually best. Keep moving until you
find a bass or two.
And remember Wirth's advice; don't try to fish all the
good looking spots.
3
Bass Rigs You Really Ought to Learn
by "The Bass Coach" Roger Lee Brown
Many of today's anglers all to often seem to have the enthusiasm
to get themselves all psyched'd up for that big day of fishing
the following day only to find themselves coming in at the end of
the day with only one or two bass caught. They will spend the day,
usually casting, re-rigging, running, loosing lures, etc., but most
of all getting frustrated because the fish aren't cooperating.
Sound Familiar? I, surly know this feeling and I'm
sure that any angler reading this article has had the same feeling
at some point and time. Now, don't feel bad if this does happen
to you because you are definitely not alone, there are probably
millions of other anglers out there that this same problem happens
to! But, there are a few "Tricks of the Trade" that you
can use to help remedy this problem..... at least it works for me
and many of my former bass angling students and charter clients
that I have taught in the past.
I found that on certain days when the bass don't seem to cooperate,
I usually will put my action baits away and pull out the "Last
Resort Rigs" which are the: TEXAS RIG, CAROLINA RIG, and FLOATING RIG
These three rigs are probably the most successful patterns for catching
bass (Largemouth, Smallmouth, & Spotted Bass) that a angler
can use just about "Anywhere and at Anytime." Now, some
anglers may ask; "Why would I use all three of these rigs?"
and the answer is really quite simple. It's like using tools
of the trade! A carpenter wouldn't use a hammer to back out
a screw, nor would he or she use a screw driver to pound nails (Well,
at least most of them wouldn't!....smile!....). The same goes
with bass fishing, an angler should have the right Tools-of-the-Trade
to do a specific job!
First, let's talk about the TEXAS RIG. This rig
was the first "Plastic Bait" rig that was used by most
of the anglers when the sport of bass fishing really got started
over 25 years ago! It is a simple rig to set up, and has produced
more bass catches than any other artificial baits ever used, even
today!
To rig a Texas Rig you will need line, a hook and a sinker.......That's
It! First, you put your sinker (usually a "bullet shaped slip
sinker") onto the line with the smaller point of the weight
going on first or "facing up." Then tie your hook (usually
a off-set worm hook) to the end of the line after you put on the
weight. Now you are ready for your plastic baits (I always refer
to artificial baits because I haven't used live bait in many
years) to be put on the hook.
This type of rig (Texas Rig) can be fished (or presented) just about
anywhere you will find bass, it has certain advantages and disadvantages
over the other two rigs that we will talk about, and I will give
a few examples after we rig up the Carolina Rig and the Floating
Rig.
So next, let's rig the CAROLINA RIG.... With this
rig you'll need line (main reel line), a barrel swivel, about
6' of leader line, a weight, glass or brass bead or rattle
chamber, and a hook. I know this seems like a lot of stuff, but
the results are incredible! >br>
First, take your "Leader Line" (usually the same line that is
on your reel already, but I would suggest at least a 2 lb. test
lesser than your main line in case of a break-off..... Most of the
time by using a lighter leader line, when it breaks it will break
off at the leader line thus saving the other hardware on the rig)
and tie one end of it to one end of the barrel swivel and then put
it aside for a moment. Then, take your main line from your reel
and first put on the weight (usually anywhere from a 1/2 oz. up
to a 1 oz. bullet or egg sinker). Next, after the weight is on your
main line, follow it with a rattle (rattle chamber, glass or brass
bead) and then tie the end of the main line to the other end of
the barrel swivel that you just put aside. After you tie to the
swivel, tie your hook at the other end of the leader line giving
you a 2' to a 4' leader. Now, we're ready for
the bait!
Next, let's rig the FLOATING RIG! This "Floating
Rig" can and will produce bass sometimes when all else fails.
It's quite simple to rig and the results can be devastating!
You will need a SMALL Barrel Swivel and a Hook for this rig. First,
take about 3' off of your main line for a leader line. Tie
one end of your leader line to one end of the barrel swivel, then
tie the other end of the barrel swivel to the main reel line. With
this rig you leave off the weight!.... NO WEIGHT!!!!! Then
finally, you tie the hook (preferably a "Light Wire" worm
hook) with only allowing about a 1' leader for the leader
line. The reason for no weight and a light wire hook is to allow
as much buoyancy as possible. This rig is designed mostly for Floating
Worms and buoyant plastic artificial baits.
Now, let's say that you were to fish around "Rip-Rap"
(Rock Areas) around dams levees etc. You probable wouldn't
use a Texas Rig unless you put the lightest weight possible on it
to keep it from getting it wedged in the rocks. Nor would you use
a Carolina Rig because the heavier weight (1/2 oz. to 1.oz.) would
most likely get hung up. So, the rig that makes the most sense would
be the "Floating Rig." This rig will allow a slow presentation
over the rock areas and the bass that may be around the rocks will
come up after it. Also, this kind of rig is used better around branches,
Lilly pads, thick surface vegetation etc.
Now, let's say that we are working a "Downward" slope
from about 3' depth to a 20' depth. The most sensible
rig to use would be to use the Carolina Rig because it will stay
in contact with the bottom contour and the deeper you work it, giving
it line from your reel you can get a better "Bottom Presentation."
A Texas Rig can be used for this also but the deeper you go with
it the more it will lift off of the bottom.
Let's say that you were going to work some pockets around a Bull Rush
field. To accurately cast into the pockets a Texas Rig would be
the most preferred because with the weight of it you can make accurate
casts. A Floating Rig would also be recommended for this type of
area as well.
Thick sloppy grass and vegetation areas, all three would work, but the
Carolina Rig has produced some quality bass in areas like this over
the other two rigs. Don't worry about getting weeds on the
Carolina Rig! Just give it a try and clean the weeds off of the
rig and keep casting into these thick areas and "Hold On!"
These rigs can be used anywhere and just about under any circumstances.
Remember this; most Bass Tournaments ever fished have paid out more
money fishing these rigs than any other types of artificial baits
ever used! So if you're not using all three of these rigs,
I promise, the results can be devastating! Just give them a try!
Fishing
Walleyes
by
Mepps Lures
The walleye, once only a Northwoods delicacy, is now abundant in many
of the reservoirs of our southern and western states. It has become
one of our most sought after game fish.
A "keeper" walleye will weigh 1-3 pounds, depending on where it's
caught. A 6-8 pounder is "braggin"' size, and anything bigger can
be called a trophy. Walleyes spawn just after "ice out" when water
temperatures reach 45-50 degrees. Following spawning, males feed
heavily. Females, however, rest for about two weeks, then go on
a feeding binge. This is the best time to land a wall hanger.
Walleye, by nature, are night feeders but don't be lulled into thinking
this is the only time to fish them. Water color has a definite effect
on the feeding habits of the walleye. Many lakes are dark water
lakes. High noon is a good time to fish for walleyes in these waters.
Keep in mind, too, that walleye are gentle feeders. They hit light. Use
a s-l-o-w retrieve.
The #3 copper Mepps Aglia can be deadly when fishing lake inlets
and gravel bars. Underwater, copper takes on the color of a nightcrawler;
especially following a heavy rain. Gold is an excellent choice on
overcast days.
On especially bright days a genuine silver plated blade is a must.
Don't use nickel or chrome. Genuine silver plating reflects "white,"
while chrome or nickel reflect "black."
Lake inlets have already been mentioned as excellent walleye structure.
Walleyes will lie in wait for the river current to bring them food.
Many times these currents will deposit sand, gravel or debris on
one or both sides of the channel. When fishing from a boat, these
provide excellent places to anchor while casting to the deep channel.
Following a heavy rain, the current in these channels speeds up.
When this happens, switch to a Mepps Aglia Long, or a 1/4 ounce
Timber Doodle tipped with a Mister Twister Split Double Tail.
Walleyes are basically bottom feeders, but don't ignore those fish
that suspend over drop-offs, in deep lakes. Some of the best summer
walleye fishing is provided by suspended fish.
The best way to go after these fish is with a 1/2 ounce #1 Timber
Doodle or a 5/8 ounce single hook Syclops. Try silver or "hot" colors
on sunny days and gold or black when it's overcast. Tip the hook
of the Syclops with a gob of nightcrawlers a minnow or a leech.
Lip hook a small minnow to the Timber Doodle before attaching the
Split Double Tail to the Keeper hook. Drift through the area while
casting. Count the spinner down, varying your depth and retrieve
until you start catching fish.
River fishing requires a different approach. Seek out deep holes
that contain large rocks or sunken logs. It's from these holes that
big walleye are consistently taken. The Aglia Long , in sizes 2
and 3, is ideally suited for river bank fishing. Look for a likely
holding area, and position yourself slightly behind it. Tip the
spinner with a nightcrawler and cast upstream as far as possible,
letting the spinner fall back into the holding area following the
natural flow of the current. Twitch the spinner lightly as you begin
a slow retrieve. This is also an excellent tactic for smallmouth.
Walleyes may love big rocks, and gravel bars. But this late evening
predator also likes to prowl the weeds. Don't ignore weed-beds near
lake inlets at any time of the year, but especially on a cool summer
evening, these weeds can provide lots of action.
Mepps Combos, including the weedless Timber Doodle are extremely
effective under these conditions. In the hour preceding and just
after sunset, fish a 1/4 ounce black Timber Doodle or a #4 Black
Fury Combo rigged with a chartreuse Mister Twister Split Double
Tail. You may also want to try a #2, 5/8 ounce hot fire tiger Syclops
tipped with a small minnow.
Fishing
Tips - Bass Fishing in Cold Weather
by Steve Chaconas, BoatUS ANGLER Pro Staff
Defined by water temperature rather than calendar, winter fishing is generally
the period where water temperatures are 38-48 degrees. Water is
at its coldest point of the year after fall migration and before
pre spawn. The good news is largemouth bass can still be caught!
Location and when to fish are keys to winter fishing. Fish during the warmest
part of the day and near hard, sun-warmed surfaces. A few degrees
can make the difference. 2006 BASSMASTER Angler of the Year and
2003 BASSMASTER Classic Champion Michael Iaconelli says, “In
colder winter months bass seek the deepest most vertical break areas
in any given part of the lake. I look for the sharper break on main
lake points and deeper channel bends. On tidal waters, I'm
looking for an area out of the main fast current.” Sharp drops
allow fish to change depths without having to travel very far!
Ike doesn't overlook shallow bass and won't slow down! “I approach
winter patterns like I approach spring, summer, and fall. I always
try to generate that reaction strike.” Starting shallow before
heading deep, he throws tight wiggle crankbaits like Berkley's
Flicker Shad, Frenzy lipless rattle baits with a yo yo retrieve,
and metal baits like spoons and Silver Buddies. These imitate winter's
dying shad. Most fishermen overwork blade baits like the Silver
Buddy. Less is more…you don't have to rip them to get
bites. A short “burp” of 6 inches off the bottom and
semi-tight line back down will entice sluggish winter bass to bite.
Most bites occur on the drop. These baits are great at any depth.
Eliminating the shallow bite, Iaconelli goes smaller, deeper and lighter. He
parallels break lines, dragging until baits hit bottom cover. “I
like to pop with a light snap of the wrist and that sometimes triggers
the bite.” Bait presentations allowing you to fish in one
spot for a while are best. Bass still eat, but aren't willing
to chase prey. In addition the food chain is moving very slowly.
When forced to downsize, Iaconelli uses dark 3-inch grubs, bottom-dwelling
craw imitators like heavy Stone Jigs (with pork chunks), as well
as The Bomb, a new, smaller finesse football jig. Keep baits on
the bottom, where winter bass spend their time. You probably won't
feel a tap…if you feel mushy weight, don't try to figure
out what it is…set the hook!
For even more finesse, Ike rigs a 5” Power Bait Shaky Head worm. Ike
likes this worm's buoyancy for shaky head action in one place,
sometimes biting it down to 4 or even 3 inches. Furthermore, he
says drop shot rigs also stay put, and are the perfect wintertime
finesse presentation. Find baitfish on your depthfinder, then drop
shot at that depth using 3 or 4-inch soft plastic baits. With a
4-8 inch leader above the weight, Ike leaves Gulp worms in one spot
once he contacts bottom cover, allowing the bait to quiver and release
its attractant. According to Iaconelli, “When you find them,
there are a ton of them down there!”
Fishing in the winter can be rewarding, but safety and comfort are essential.
A PFD is a must. Heavier clothing and fishing in deeper water can
prove to be a disastrous combination if you fall overboard. Loose
layers trap body heat and let moisture escape. Taking a buddy, letting
an onshore contact know where you are and when you plan to return,
and being prepared for emergencies make winter fishing good sense.
Tweaking
a Pop-r
by Rob Brewer
Now that the water has warmed and the area bass are in a spawn/post
spawn pattern, a top water bait is a sound choice for lure selection.
Quite often I'll use a Pop-R by the Rebel division of PRADCO. The
bait by itself will catch fish "as-is" from the factory, but there
are a few really simple steps you can do to increase the number
of bites you get and increase your hook up ratio.
Start with a new Pop-R in one of the G-finish colors. I choose these ones
because they have smooth sides instead of that molded-in, raised
fish scale texture on some models. This saves you all that sanding
and other time wasting tasks that Zell Rowland does. I like to buy
Pop-R's in colors that mimic shad. I think the factory name of the
color is "Red eye perch". This bait is light gray with a darker
gray scale pattern sprayed on it. It has a white underside and red
overspray underneath the eyes.
The first thing to do is remove the factory hooks and give them to fellows
you fish against. Now take some sort of tool like an ice pick and
pop all the paint off of the lure's eye where you tie your line.
I have a tool I got at Wal-Mart that is great for this job. It looks
like some sort of dentist pick on a screwdriver handle. It costs
about $2.00 for a set of four different type picks. Keep the "eye
popper" on in your tackle box. It works great for cleaning out jig
eyes too.
Once you've cleaned all the paint from the eye, you're ready to install
some "real" hooks. Replace the front hook with a size 6 VMC #7650
treble. If you can't find those; look for Owner ST36 or Daiichi
Deathtraps. They all run about $5.00 for ten hooks. The Daiichi's
are available in that bleeding red color if that's what you like.
For the rear hook, attach an Owner tournament trailer. These hooks run about
$5.00 for two. They are strong, sharp and dressed with feathers
instead of the mylar/synthetic combo you removed and gave to your
buddy. These feathers breathe in the water and impart a very subtle
action that entices extra bites.The $3.00 worth of hooks you put
on the bait is sharp enough to ensure you hook those extra bites.
The new hooks are a little heavier that those you gave away and they make
the bait sit a little lower in the water which I believe also aides
in hook ups. One last tip. When you tie your line to the bait, pull
the knot down the lure's eye so that the knot points towards the
bottom of the lake. This may sound weird but it actually changes
the action of the bait when you work it. I shouldn't have told you
about that. Now I've given up all my secrets for this bait. Remember
to adjust your knot after every fish. Soon you'll recognize when
the knot is not right because it will be obvious to you that the
bait is not working right.
Go ahead and make these modifications and I promise you'll catch more fish.
If not, send me the Pop-R and I'll use it.
The advent of catch-and-release has been great for the sport of fishing. It
has literally re-cycled fish/opportunity for other anglers. However,
there is a proper method to returning fish to the water after you
catch them, that assures the fish's chances of survival.
Here are some basic tips:
- Don't play or fight a fish any longer than necessary. This way when you do catch and release the fish, it's not fatigued or stressed.
- Do not touch or handle the fish any more than necessary. Doing so removes a protective
slime coat that helps protect the fish from disease. It might
be a good idea to wet your hands before handling the fish.
For the same reason the use of dip nets is not encouraged with fish you plan to release. And if you do use nets, those with rubber webbing seem to be less harmful in this regard than those made of twine. - If a hook is swallowed, cut it off as closely to the eye of the hook as possible and release the fish, rather than trying to remove the hook. Studies have shown fish have a better chance of survival if you do this.
- There is nothing wrong with taking photos of a catch, but consider that the fish cannot breathe out of water. Take the photo and return the fish to water as soon as possible.
- Fishing with barbless hooks aid in the survival rate of caught and released fish. The same is true of anglers using circle hooks. These hooks are designed to turn when taken by the fish and hook it in the corner of the mouth rather than be swallowed.
Fluorescent
Line Applications
By Mark Hicks, courtesy of BassClubDigest
In the early days of bass clubs there were few monofilament lines
to choose from. Most anglers opted for one brand and used it in
varying sizes for every fishing application. The major dilemma was
whether to buy a clear or fluorescent monofilament.
Things are more complicated today because line makers have continually
developed new monofilaments to upstage their competitors. We now
have monofilaments in a myriad of colors, and those that are tougher,
stronger, more sensitive, more limp and cartable, and that have
all these attributes to some degree.
When the super braids and their likes blitzed bass fishermen, there was
a hectic period of adjustment. Some pundits believed that the thinner,
more sensitive super lines would replace monofilament. Bass anglers
eagerly experimented with the new lines. Some fishermen have since
forsaken super lines altogether, and few anglers use them exclusively.
Most bassers use super lines for flippin' dense cover, such
as matted vegetation, and for Carolina rigging, where the line's
low stretch helps strike detection and hook setting.
Just when fishermen were settling into a comfort zone with their monofilament
and super line choices, along came fluorocarbon. This “invisible
line” has a refractive index nearly the same as water. When
a fluorocarbon line is immersed in water, it blends in so well that
it virtually disappears. Here, finally, is a line that will not
spook fish, even in crystal clear water. As with the super lines,
bass fishermen are now sorting out where fluorocarbon line fits
into their fishing.
The first fluorocarbon lines were leader material for fly-fishing. A fly-fishing
leader needs to be stiff so that it rolls over smoothly as it transfers
the inertia from the fly line to the fly. But, a stiff line is detested
for most bass fishing applications. It tends to backlash baitcasting
reels, and it springs off spinning reels in stiff coils that reduce
casting distance
Newer fluorocarbon lines designed for bass fishing are more limp. But,
Berkley states that fluorocarbon line is still inherently stiffer then
monofilament. That's because fluorocarbon line does not absorb water,
as does monofilament, and become more flexible. Even so, some anglers
now use fluorocarbon line extensively, including Mike Fillmer of Lithonia,
a suburb of Atlanta, Georgia. Fillmer, an ex police officer and a retired
IBM salesman, now manages a warehouse at SPRO/Gamakatsu. He has been a
member (and the secretary) of the Dekalb Bass Club since 1986. The club
fishes lakes throughout Georgia and the surrounding states.
As did many fishermen, Fillmer first used fluorocarbon line as a leader
when he Carolina rigged with braided line. He soon found that, besides
being invisible, fluorocarbon line is low in stretch and more sensitive
than monofilament. It helped him feel bites, set the hook, and it proved
tougher than monofilament. Fluorocarbon, unlike monofilament, is also
unaffected by the sun's UV rays. Since it does not absorb water, fluorocarbon
maintains superior wet strength to monofilament. It also sinks faster,
because it is more dense. This is beneficial with sinking lures, such
as jig and worms, but it can hamper the action of topwater baits
“I've tried just about every fluorocarbon line out there,” Fillmer
says. “I've had good luck with many of them, but my
favorite is Seagar. It's very limp.”
Fillmer first tried 8- and 10-pound fluorocarbon as a leader for a Carolina
rig on 14-pound braided line. He was so pleased with fluorocarbon's
sensitivity that he eventually switched from a super braid to fluorocarbon
as the main line. Another item that improves his sensitivity is
a tungsten sinker from Tru-Tungsten instead of a lead sinker.
“With that tungsten weight and that fluorocarbon line, I can feel mud,
I can feel brush, I can feel limbs, and I can feel grass,”
Fillmer says. “And when a bass picks it up. I know it.”
Encouraged by his success with fluorocarbon when Carolina rigging, Fillmer
tried the line with other lures. He soon found that it improved
his catch when fishing jigs and Texas-rigged worms. When he spooled
6-pound fluorocarbon on his spinning rod for drop-shotting, he knew
he had found the perfect combination."
Besides
being more sensitive, fluorocarbon sinks faster,” Fillmer
says. “It gets down there quicker and I can get by with a
lighter weight.” When Fillmer tried 10-pound fluorocarbon
line on his crankbait rod, he found that he could cast 15 to 20
percent farther than with monofilament. He admits that other anglers
question this, but he claims there is no doubt that he casts farther.
Since he usually fishes from the back seat of his club member's
boats, longer casts help him keep pace with the angler fishing from
the bow. He also claims that the increased casting distance, combined
with the sinking line, allows his crankbaits to run deeper. The
increased sensitivity of fluorocarbon tells him when the crankbait
contacts cover or the bottom, and when a bass nabs his bait.
Fillmer also switched to fluorocarbon for fishing jerkbaits and topwater
baits, including Lucky Craft's Sammy, his favorite dog-walking
stickbait. By working the Sammy at a faster cadence, Fillmer overcomes
negative effect of the sinking fluorocarbon line.“
I now use fluorocarbon for 90 percent of my fishing.” Fillmer says.
“I just love this stuff. I'm not about to switch to
anything else.”
The only bait that Fillmer doesn't fish on fluorocarbon line is a snagless
frog, specifically the Rojas Frog. He retrieves this bait over matted
grass and other nasty cover, and opts for 65-pound braided line
so he can horse the bass out.
One drawback Fillmer has found with fluorocarbon line is that it is hard to see
above the water, especially through his bifocals. He sometimes struggles
to see the line when he watches for strikes with jigs and worms.
However, Fillmer claims that fluorocarbon has so many advantages
it more than compensates for this handicap.
Another negative is the high cost of fluorocarbon. You'll pay as much
for 200 yards of fluorocarbon as for 750 to 1,000 yards of monofilament.
“It is expensive,” Fillmer says. “But I tell you what, it
handles well, it casts well, it holds up well, and I can feel everything
down there with it. It's worth it.”
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