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- Trolling Motor Battery Technology the Pro's Use - Steve Chaconas
- Changing Engine Oil - Don Casey
- Battery Chargers
- Double-Check Boating Equipment
- Midsummer Boat Maintenance Tips
- Buying a Starter Boat
- Fuel Filters - Gas & Water Never Mix
- Who Needs to Winterize?
Trolling
Motor Battery Technology the Pro's Use
by Steve Chaconas
Anglers demand high performance from their boats to their batteries! And, they're
willing to pay for it! Bass rigs run well into the $50,000+ range! Pricey Japanese lures go for $80
on EBAY! The fishing industry accommodates this appetite for techno fishing! And now it's the battery's turn!
Batteries store electricity, they don't create it. Starting batteries deliver a burst of electricity for a
short period of time and recharge once the engine runs. When starting batteries fail they can't start engines.
The other bass boat battery, the deep-cycle, provides a steady stream of power to run trolling motors.
Batteries undergo deterioration over time.
Deep cycle battery life varies with use, maintenance, charging, temperature, and other factors including
overcharging death. Batteries sitting for extended periods can also be dead on arrival when called into
service. Typical expectations for deep cycle batteries:
- Starting: 3-12 months
- Marine: 1-6 years
- Gelled deep cycle: 2-5 years
- AGM deep cycle: 4-7 years
Batteries,
not 100% efficient, lose energy through heat and chemical reactions when
charging and discharging resulting in a decline in capacity. Losses are
due to internal resistance generating heat, as batteries get warm when
charged. Lower internal resistance allows batteries to last longer.
Even fully charged batteries hold less energy over time, until unable
to store enough energy to make it through a day of fishing. Voltmeters
indicate condition, but can show a perfect 12-volt battery reading that
won't start engines. Battery shopping might leave you short-charged as
quality and construction varies. Thin positive plates, eaten away gradually,
rank among the top 3 reasons for battery failure. Thicker plates equal
longer life. You get what you pay for.
Basic bass boat batteries rely on 1850's technology. If a battery has
removable caps, they'll have to be topped off with water. Even so-called
"maintenance-free" batteries need to be filled over time. "Old fashioned"
batteries come with warranties, not much help when continually replacing
them or when they die on the water. Battery makers know batteries will
fail and warranties take some of the consumer sting out of down time.
Batteries, bass fishing's ugly stepsister, have been locked away in the
dark bilges of the boat, exhumed only upon failure!
"Gel Cell" batteries contain a "gelled" acid. The addition of Silica Gel
turns acid into a solid mass that looks like gooey Jell-O and is impossible
to spill even if broken. However, they must be charged at a slower rate
to prevent excess gas from damaging cells. Fast charging on a conventional
automotive charger may permanently damage them. Sealed gelled batteries
utilize tiny valves to maintain slight positive pressure.
Pro anglers are switching to Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) batteries. They
can't be filled and are sealed valve regulated. AGM batteries have gel's
advantages without the disadvantages. Originally developed in 1985 for
military aircraft, where power, weight, safety, and reliability were essential
considerations, AGM technology utilizes tightly packed and rigidly mounted
Boron-Silicate glass mats between plates to absorb more abuse than gel
cells. With no liquid to freeze and expand, they're practically immune
from freezing damage. AGMs are also "starved electrolyte", as the mat
is about 95% saturated rather than fully soaked, they won't leak acid
even if broken. Withstanding shock and vibration better than standard
batteries means they're non-hazardous and shipping costs are lower. AGMs
cost about the same as "gels".
Sitting stored in a partly discharged state for a few months is the biggest
battery killer. A "float" charge should be maintained on idled batteries.
AGMs survive off-season or in-between trips much longer without charging
than standard batteries. If left for longer periods, all batteries should
be trickle-charged to avoid damage. Sulfated plates may give batteries
the appearance of being fully charged, but in reality may go dead very
quickly under load. With a low self-discharge, 1% to 3% per month, AGMs
are much lower than (up to 15%) "standard" batteries!
Charging voltages of AGMs are the same as standard batteries so there's
no need for special adjustments or problems with incompatible chargers
that gels create. Internal resistance is extremely low, creating almost
no battery heating even under heavy charge and discharge currents. Lead-acid
batteries charge to 85-95% while deep cycle AGMs approach 98%. Bottom
line…AGMs charge faster and fuller! However, most battery chargers are
bulk charge only, and have little voltage regulation, fine for a quick
low battery boost but not for long periods. Voltage regulated chargers,
such as Minn Kota's MK 345 On-Board Charger, deliver rapid recharging
and fully automatic 3-stage charging (bulk, absorption and maintenance)
operation to provide a full charge every time. Minn Kota offers automatic
temperature compensation delivering fast charging recovery, even in extreme
temperatures, while protecting batteries from overcharging.
Unlike AGMs, wet batteries do not age gracefully. Capacity decreases and
maintenance requirements increase. They require longer charging time and/or
higher finish rate (higher amperage at the end of the charge) and they
need to be watered more often. When charging flooded batteries, vent caps
should remain on while charging to prevent water loss and splashing. Never
add acid to a battery except to replace spilled liquid. Add water after
charging unless plates are exposed, then just enough distilled or de-ionized
water to cover the plates. After a full charge, the water level should
be even in all cells and usually 1/4" to 1/2" below the bottom of the
fill well in the cell (depends on battery size and type). Only clean water
should be used for cleaning the outside of batteries. Solvents or spray
cleaners should not be used.
For all batteries, 24 or 36 volt trolling motor systems, replacements
should be the same size, type and manufacturer (if possible). Also keep
the age and usage level similar. Don't put new batteries with others more
than 6 months old. Either replace with all new or use a good used battery.
It's a bad idea to buy new batteries and "save" them for later. By the
way, Lead-Acid batteries do NOT have a memory, and the rumor they should
be fully discharged to avoid this "memory" is totally false and will lead
to early battery failure. The most efficient way to charge a battery is
to do it slowly! There's no truth to the myth, dating back when battery
cases were made of wood and asphalt, about avoiding storage of batteries
on concrete floors. Acid leaked, forming a slow-discharging circuit through
the now acid-soaked and conductive floor.
Since 1946, East Penn Manufacturing (DEKA) has been making thousands of
different sizes and types of lead-acid batteries, and battery accessories
for virtually any application. Many modern motorcycles utilize AGM batteries.
NASCAR, IHRA, SCORE, and other top racing leagues are continually equipping
Deka AGM products in their vehicles. In the past 2 years, many bass boat
owners have been switching to AGMs; they are vibration resistant, charge
quicker and fully, and last longer! If your current batteries are leaving
you without a charge, then be in charge with a switch to AGM batteries.
Changing
Engine Oil
by Don Casey
Engine manufacturers typically recommend an oil change
every 100 hours, and at least once a year. Even if your engine manual
allows for a longer interval between oil changes, changing the oil more
often will extend the life of the engine.
One hundred engine hours between oil changes is fine
for gasoline engines, but diesel engines are much harder on their lubrication.
You should change the oil in a diesel engine about every 50 hours. The
shorter interval is especially important for sailors who use their engines
for only an hour or two per outing. Dirty oil sitting idle becomes destructive
to the internal surfaces of the engine. If your boat will be idle for
a while-over the winter, for example-it is imperative to remove the contaminated
oil and fill the engine with clean oil.
Unfortunately regular oil changes are more often the exception rather than the rule, mainly because changing
the oil in a boat engine can be a difficult and messy job. While it takes
only a minute to drain the oil from an automobile engine, the oil drain
plug in a boat is most often either out of reach or non-existent.
Click
Here to Read More on Changing Engine Oil
Battery Chargers
from BoatUS BoatTECH Guides
If you own a small boat and you only need battery power
at dockside intermittently for things like lights and bilge pumps, an
SCR (silicone-controlled rectifier) charger may work best for you. It
varies its charge to keep your battery at a constant 13.4 volts. The ones
we carry are fully automatic and have multiple charging capabilities.
Live-aboards and larger boats with many 12-volt accessories
usually have ferro-resonant chargers that put out 12 volts continuously
to keep up with constant power demands. Ours are fully automatic, self-regulating,
and ruggedly built to give many years of dependable service.
Experts agree that the best way to replace the energy
you consume from your boat's batteries is through a controlled, multi-stage
process. Both conventional lead-acid (flooded) batteries and gel cells
will charge faster and last longer if they are charged in distinct phases
that take into account their chemical and physical complexities. The recommended
three-stage charging process works as follows:
1. Bulk Stage: This first stage provides a constant
amperage bulk charge of 25-40% of the battery's capacity (in amp hours,
Ah) up to about 14.4 volts (14.2 for gel cells). This bulk charge will
restore about 75% of the battery's total capacity. It takes less time
than tapering chargers, like ferro-resonant and SCR chargers, because
the smart charger delivers greater current to the batteries which can
accept greater current loads when they are discharged.
2. Absorption Stage: The remaining 25% of capacity is
restored at a decreasing rate. Maintaining the battery at 14.4 volts (14.2
for gel), the amperage is steadily reduced. The battery is considered
fully charged when it will accept only 2-4% of its amp-hour capacity at
14.4 volts.
>
3. Float Phase: The charge amperage has declined to
2-4% of the battery's capacity, and voltage drops to 13.5 (13.8 for gel
cells). This maintains the battery without losing electrolyte from gassing.
4. Equalization: Applies to lead-acid batteries only.
This fourth, manually triggered stage prevents lead-acid batteries from
aging prematurely by applying a small, constant current until the battery
reaches 16 volts, which dissolves the hardened lead sulfate crystals on
the battery plates and prolongs battery life.
Click
Here to Read More About Battery Chargers
Anglers Start YOUR Engines: Buying a Starter Boat
By John Neporadny Jr., Courtesy of BassClubDigest
Anyone
looking to buy their first bass boat should consider joining a bass club.
After all, what better opportunity does a novice angler
have to take test rides and actually get to fish in a variety of brands
and sizes of bass boats? During my earliest non-boater days in the Eldon
Bass Club, I got the chance to fish in every major brand of bass boat
ranging in sizes from 15 1/2- to 19 feet and through these experiences
I formed an idea of what would be a good starter boat for me.
“If they are fairly new to bass fishing, they are usually fishing with some of their friends in
the club, so they are getting to know what their needs are as far as length
of the boat and horsepower of the motor,” said Wesley Dawson, owner
of Dawson Marine in Beaumont, Texas. The boat dealer works closely with
bass clubs in his area by sponsoring club events and allowing club members
to hold their meetings at the dealership.
Click Here to Read More about Buying a Starter Boat
Fuel Filters - Gas and Water Never Mix
from the pages of BoatUS Trailering Magazine
When Dr. Nikolaus Otto built the first gasoline engine in 1876, it quickly became apparent
the fuel he used was going to have to be filtered before it got into the
engine. A few years later, Rudolph Diesel realized the same thing when
he invented a variation of Otto's idea. Fuel filtering has been around
for a long time.
Here's why having a water separator on your fuel filter is so important now: Because gasoline
(at the top of the glass) is lighter than water (at the bottom of the
glass) and because the chemical makeup of ethanol attracts water (through
condensation as well as poor fuel storage facilities), water has a good
chance of getting into the fuel system. (opposite page) This Racor filter
has a clear bowl at the bottom allowing you to easily see if water is
in the fuel supply. This filter has a drain plug allowing the water to
be easily removed.
Enter ethanol, the mix of 90% gasoline and 10% alcohol created from distilled cornstarch that is now
common at your gas station and at marinas throughout the United States.
It's the first step, and a somewhat awkward one at that, toward less dependence
on oil. It has changed the way we look at fuel systems.
"Now more than ever before, a boat owner needs a good
fuel filter and water separator on board," says Robin MacDonald of Racor,
a leading manufacturer of marine filters. "We used to say, change the
filter at least once a year. Now we say change it twice a year, more if
you are on the water a lot. And always carry a spare."
"Now more than ever before, a boat owner needs a good
fuel filter and water separator on board," says Robin MacDonald of Racor,
a leading manufacturer of marine filters. "We used to say, change the
filter at least once a year. Now we say change it twice a year, more if
you are on the water a lot. And always carry a spare."
If your boat is out of the water right now, most agree the fuel filter/water separator should have been
changed. Check your engine manufacturer recommendations but most suggest
filling the tank about 95% full (including a fuel stabilizer) with ethanol
and don't close the vents in an effort to keep water out because fuel
needs to expand with temperature changes and a closed vent has the potential
of being dangerous.
Double-Check Boating Equipment to Avoid
a "First Trip of the Year" Nightmare
by Lee McClellan
Frankfort,
Kentucky – Now that we are in the first truly warm weeks of the year,
it is easy for people to overlook some things in their haste to get their
boat on the water. Over the years, I've learned from personal experience
about checking your boat and trailer before launching it for the first
time of the year.
A few years ago, for example, my wife, a friend and I went to Herrington
Lake to bass fish. I idled our boat just across the lake from Bryant's
Camp boat ramp when I felt an unsettling coldness on my feet and ankles.
Six inches of Herrington Lake flooded the floor of the boat. We were sinking.
I quickly fired up the motor and beached my boat on the ramp. We put the
boat back on the trailer and let the water run out of the hole where the
plug used to be.
Water poured out of the hole like a garden hose. Other anglers at the
ramp could hardly launch their boats from laughing. Some walked by our
boat with tears in their eyes, shaking their heads and chuckling.
After all the water was gone, I put in a spare plug I had on board, screwed
it down, and pulled as hard as I could. It didn't budge. We launched again
and went on to catch several respectable largemouth bass that day.
The problem stemmed from a swollen gasket around the old plug. After a
late winter trout fishing trip to the Dix River, I had removed the plug
and tossed it into the recessed compartment in the stern of the boat.
There it had swollen from contact with some spilled gas and oil.
The plug had not fully seated because of the swollen gasket. I thought
the plug didn't feel quite right when I put it in, but I was too excited
to get the boat in the water on the warmest day of that year. Water pressure
and movement quickly dislodged it after we launched.
This taught me the importance of always carrying a spare plug on my boat.
Before you take out your boat this year, first inspect the plug each spring
to see if the rubber gasket is dry rotted, cracked or swollen. Periodically
check the plug's snugness before launching.
A few years ago, I was on a friend's boat while fishing for smallmouth
bass on Lake Cumberland. We hadn't fished long when I heard gurgling.
I looked over and saw water gushing through the vent in the middle of
the floor. It looked like Uncle Jed's black gold discovery on the opening
credits of the “Beverly Hillbillies” television show. My buddy quickly
fired the motor and we made our way back to the ramp.
The culprit was a broken housing on the livewell's intake pump, which
allowed water to seep into the hull. If a boat has a livewell, inspect
the outside housing of the intake pump for cracks or other damage. Inspect
the seal around this housing for dry rot.
A similar incident happened one summer night on Laurel River Lake. The
boat felt funny and I heard squishing when I walked. We were taking on
water from a crushed pump intake housing. After a trip to the ramp, we
jury-rigged a patch with plastic sandwich bags and went back to fishing.
I never really relaxed that night, however, until we pulled the boat out
of the water.
On another occasion, a friend and I were driving home from a smallmouth
bass fishing trip at Lake Cumberland. An explosion erupted behind us and
we swayed all over the highway. After some scary moments, we managed to
stop on the shoulder of the road. The tire on the boat trailer had blown
out.
Many trailers have a carpeted piece of marine-grade plywood on the inside
of the wheel well, to protect the boat from rocks and other highway debris.
This piece of wood had shaken loose and lodged in the wheel well, causing
the blowout. It was no fun putting a boat and trailer on a small hydraulic
jack at 10:30 p.m. along the side of a busy parkway, trying to dislodge
this hunk of rotted wood to put on the spare.
Inspect this piece of wood to make sure the screws or bolts are still
secure and the wood isn't rotten. This wood gets soaked every time you
launch and retrieve and it is easy to overlook its maintenance.
Don't make the mistakes I've made through the years. Take the extra time
to check the boat plug, the livewell intakes and the condition of the
trailer components. This will make the first boating trip of the year
an enjoyable one, not a nightmare.
Lee McClellan is an award-winning writer for Kentucky Afield magazine,
the official publication of the Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife
Resources. He is a life-long hunter and angler, with a passion for smallmouth
bass fishing.
Who Needs to Winterize?
Courtesy of Seaworthy Magazine - The BoatUS Marine Insurance and Damage Avoidance Report
Of
all 50 states, which would you guess had the most freeze-related claims?
New York? Maine? Michigan? Guess again. An examination of the BoatUS Marine
Insurance claim files found that balmy California had more winterizing
claims than any other state, including any of the “deep freeze” states.
While winters may be much colder in the deep-freeze states, the bitter
temperatures are a fact of life and preparations for winter are taken
very seriously. But in the more temperate states, like California, Florida,
Texas, Louisiana, Alabama, and Georgia, winter tends to be relatively
comfortable in most areas with only an occasional cold spell. And if the
forecasts aren't taken seriously, they can do a lot of damage.
Storage Ashore - In some parts of the
country, where winter means several months of bitterly cold weather, storing
boats ashore is the norm. In warmer climates, however, ice and snow may
occur infrequently, and the choice between storage ashore and storage
in the water is open to discussion.
Storage in the water means you might get a jump on the boating season
next spring. On the other hand, boats stored ashore (on high ground) won't
sink. If you have a choice, storage ashore is a safer bet. Storage ashore
may also be less expensive over the life of a boat, since a hull surrounded
by air for several months each winter is less likely to develop blisters
than a hull that remains in the water. These blisters, the fiberglass
equivalent of rot, occur on many boats when water soaks into the laminate
below the waterline.
Storage in the Water - If the boat
must be left in the water, the thru-hulls have to be protected by closing
all seacocks and gate valves. Leaving a thru-hull unprotected over the
winter is like going on an extended vacation and leaving your home's front
door open. Failure to close thru-hulls is a major cause of loss in the
BoatUS insurance program. In a recent study of 40 winter-related claims,
seacocks or gate valves left open caused or contributed to the sinking
of seven of the boats in the sample group. It should be noted that raising
and refurbishing a boat that sinks, even at a dock, is a daunting job
that can keep the boat in the repair yard for many weeks over the spring
and summer.
Whenever a boat is stored in the water over the winter,
all thru-hulls, with the exception of the ones for cockpit drains, must
be closed or it could be on the bottom next spring. And all thru-hulls,
especially the ones for the cockpit drains, must be double-clamped with
stainless steel hose clamps at each end. This is critical. When water
freezes it expands and will lift a poorly secured hose off of a fitting.
The hose itself is also important. Lightweight hose and PVC tubing can
rupture or crack. Use only a heavily reinforced hose, especially at cockpit
drains.
If your boat has thru-hulls below the waterline that can't be closed,
either because they are mechanically frozen open or have broken (typical
with gate valves, which is why they are not recommended), it should be
stored ashore for the winter.
Click Here to view and print the Winterizing Worksheet in Adobe PDF format.
Would you like the information above in a handy brochure that you
can take with you?
Click Here or order the "Winterizing Your Boat" brochure
Midsummer Boat Maintenance Tips
Seaworthy,
the newsletter from BoatUS that helps boaters and anglers prevent damage
to their vessels, recently looked into some of the more common reasons
for on-the-water boat troubles that occur mid-season.
"Preventive maintenance will help you avoid the headaches and keep your crew or fishing buddies comfortable
and safe," says Seaworthy Editor Bob Adriance. "So going over the boat's
systems in the spring is very important. But now after a couple months
of use, it's time to look at things again. A midsummer check-up will ensure
you make it back to home port without a problem."
Here are some midsummer maintenance tips for both power and sailboats:
- Through-hulls: Make a thorough check around any below-the-waterline hole or opening.
Check all through-hulls for leaks and cycle seacocks to ensure they close
properly. If it?s hard to move the handle, make a note to service it next
time the boat is out of the water. Any hose clamps should be tight and
hose ends secure. A bilge pump cycle counter is a simple upgrade and the
best early warning system that unwanted water is coming aboard.
- Engine belts: For inboard engines, look in areas near the belts checking for evidence
of black dust - a sure sign that engine pulleys need to be realigned and
the belt replaced. Push on the longest run of the belt ? it should not
deflect more than one half inch.
- Engine hoses: Squeeze coolant and fuel hoses with your hands, looking for softness,
cracks or bulges. Replace any that are suspect. Wiggle the ends to ensure
they are secure and inspect for any possible chafing issues in the engine
compartment.
- Sterndrives: Inspect the folds in the bellows and replace if they show signs of cracking.
- Sacrificial zincs and anodes:
A wasted zinc is a sure sign of trouble, possibly stray current at the
dock. Ensure all zincs are no less than half gone ? and replace them now
if they are.
- Control cables: Look for chafe, splits or swelling of the plastic jacket - a sure sign
the cable needs replacement.
- Outboard engine mounts: Smaller engines can sometimes vibrate loose, so re-tighten clamps and
ensure the cut-off switch is operable.
- Hydraulic steering system and trim tabs: Ensure reservoirs are full. If you have to add
fluid, there is leak that must be fixed immediately.
- Batteries and electrical system: Dead batteries are often nothing more than corroded connections
- sandpaper can easily clean them up. With conventional batteries check
water levels and add if necessary. Inspect cables and wiring for chafe,
especially wherever they may pass through a bulkhead.
- Shorepower cable: Look for burn marks on the plug ends and the connection to the boat. Replace
both the plug and receptacle immediately if you find any.
- Head: If your boat has a flushing toilet and its handle is getting hard to operate,
you?ve likely got calcium buildup. Pour a cup of vinegar into bowl pumping
only once or twice. Let it sit for one night before flushing with one-fourth
cup of mineral oil.
- On deck: Old, stiff, or chafed dock lines should be replaced. Also check anchor line
and chain shackles and any splices.
- Sailboats only: Look for any broken strands on standing rigging. You can find them by
running a loose rag up the rigging, which will snag on any broken ends.
Cracked swages are an indicator for immediate replacement. Contact a rigger
if you suspect a problem. Running rigging also needs to be looked at -
especially the roller furling line.
- Trailers: Inspect bearings and ensure they are well packed with grease. Hydraulic brake
reservoirs should be full. Lastly, check the tires for wear and ensure
lugs are tight.
For more information about damage avoidance on your boat check out Seaworthy
Magazine.
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